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Ok I have searched for about an hour and a half reading posts and couldnt find a similar situation so I gave up and decided to post. I am having an idle issue with my car. Whenever i come to a stop with the clutch in or in neutrel without the clutch in it will hold rpm at 1000 and then drop to normal but usually only a few seconds it has lasted up to about 7 seconds. It just started this two weeks ago two days after I changed my clutch and tranny. Now i did put my stock mx-3 tranny back on after being unsuccesful in getting an axle for my mx-6 lsd. I have never had my stock tranny in my car since the ZE swap ao I don't know if it is related. I have done a thourough check for vac leaks and to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. And everything seems fine. Any ideas?

So what does it do exactly after a few seconds at 1000 RPMS?
If it is hunting or dying I'd do two things.
1. make sure you have about a half inch of deflection on the throttle cable with the car off and cold. It gets tighter as the car warms up and can cause some idel issues.
2. reset the throttle position sensor or TPS. Should be done with the swap, but it eliminates the posibility of it being off. I suggest doing it with "measureing with shims and a elec. tester" method over using the fan to tell you when resistance is right.
3. (after TPS reset) reset the idle with the car in limp mode
Then turn the car off, remove the 10 and gnd jumper and see if it continues to hunt or die after it warms up and is ideling.
If it still doesn't want to wok, I'd check the timing. If at 10* advance in limp mode try spraying some brake cleaner around the intake manifold where it meats the head. It the idle is effected then you have a vaccum leak around the seal somewhere.

When it finally drops from 1000 it goes to normal like nothing is wrong. That is why I am so stumped. Just starting the car it warms up regularly and idles fine it isnt until i push the gas that it will start holding at 1000. I mean it isnt really a major issue it just buggs me cause it was never doing it before. I havent yet checked the tps but from prior posts ive read it dosen't really seem like it would be involved. I mean i didn't change the motor just the tranny and clutch so if it was fine before I dont see how it would be off now.

Our cars are so prone to funky idle that I've given up on trying to fix it all the time. Mine was ideling at about 300 the other day so I plugged the ten and grnd and turned the idle screw until it sat at about 600 RPM. It now sits at 1000 until I bump the throttle and then it settles to 500. WTH. This is also only sometimes. About 50% of the time when it goes to idle it does go to 600 RPM.

mine had a funky idle problem/all around problem like that too. sometimes it ran great. sometimes funky. the local repair shop looked at it, and changed a few things. fvckers didnt fix the problem and watsed 500 dollars in the proccess. dumb fvcks. took it to a mazda dealership. they said the vaccum lines were hacked up. they were looking at $2000+ to repair and replace everything(fvck that). then i searched around on here and found the 28 dollar solution. i replaced the air/fuel mix ratio temp sensor(green). fixed the problem. no more idling problems, no more sputtering, stalling, and i can accelerate 0-60 in under 45 seconds(ya it was that bad). it felt like i had a total of 40 hp and the engine would almost kill itself it was running so rich if i pushed the throttle more than 20%.

PATDIESEL wrote:Our cars are so prone to funky idle that I've given up on trying to fix it all the time. Mine was ideling at about 300 the other day so I plugged the ten and grnd and turned the idle screw until it sat at about 600 RPM. It now sits at 1000 until I bump the throttle and then it settles to 500. WTH. This is also only sometimes. About 50% of the time when it goes to idle it does go to 600 RPM.

Yea its like I said its not that big of an issue it just kinda bugs me cause it wasnt doing it before. If I do happen to figure it out i'll let you guys know what it was though.