Transaxle ?

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MazdaNoob123
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Joined: October 12th, 2005, 2:09 pm
Location: Bellingham, WA

Transaxle ?

Post by MazdaNoob123 »

Ok i have a 1992 Mazda Mx-3 V6 5 Speed
im planning on changing the transaxle oil
i would like to know how much gear oil i need.
One other question i have is how do i tell if i have a G5M-R transaxle or not.
I beleive the Mx-3 only came with one manual transaxle for the v6
but anyway i think it has something to do with the year.

I have a Chilton Manual and im trying to figure out the procedure for changing the gear oil.

It offers several figures all of which are different

1. 1990-93 Vehicle Except MX-3 With G5M-R Transaxle

2. MX-3 with G5M-R Transaxle, 323 4WD, 1993 626/MX-6/Probe and All 1994-98 Vehicles

3. 1990-93 Vehicles Except MX-3 with G5M-R Transaxle, 323 4WD and 1993 626/MX-6/Probe

4. MX-3 With G5M-R Transaxle, 323 4WD, 1993 626/MX-6/Probe and All 1994-98 Vehicles


no 2 and 4 arent a typo by me
they did repeat the same thing twice, only one has a different procedure.
I still cant find anywhere in the shop manual where it says there should be a 1in hole in the side of the block. (Blown K8) #6 rod thrown through block.
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wagZE
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Location: SEATTLE

Post by wagZE »

its in the chilton's. or check the online shop manual on mx-3.com
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1992blazeredgs
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Post by 1992blazeredgs »

Read this, it will answer all your questions.

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.ph ... anny+fluid

Nate
Looking for another Red GS.
neumann
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Joined: October 29th, 2005, 12:27 pm
Location: Toronto, Canada

Post by neumann »

Mazdanoob

I was the newbie who posted the original question in the thread quoted above. I changed the tranny fluid twice in a cramped garage in Canada in the middle of winter and once I figured out what I was doing it was easy.

Between the chilton manual and the online shop manual you should be able to get oriented. I went in through the bottom, jacking the car up and getting at the drain and fill plugs. After looking at it I figured that going in throught the speedometer gear was more trouble that its worth. I would suggest the following bill of goods:

Jack and two jack stands
23MM combination wrench to remove drain plug
3 litres of GL4 manual transmission fluid (spec is 2.8 litres of 75w90)
Hose (I think i used a 3/8" vinyl hose)

Run the car up to operating temperature to get the fluid warm and circulating. This is not essential but I think warm oil drains more fully. especially if it is minus 10 degrees.

Jack it up and position the stands to support the car. I like to leave the jack as an emergency backup in case one of the stands fail. Remove the plastic shield hel on by som 12mm bolts (i think). Now remove the fill plug first. This is important because if you drain it and then find that you can't get the fill plug open, its trouble.

Remove the drain plug. I really like combination wrenches for this stuff because you can slip the closed end over the plug bolt and give it a tap with a hammer to loosen seized or rusted bolts.

Drain fluid and replace drain plug. Insert hose into fill hole and feed the other end up past the air box or whatever so that you can stand comfortably and pour fluid in using either a funnel and gravity or if you have the 1 litre squeeze bottles of fluid just inserting the pointy bit into the hose and squeezing.

Add 2.8 litres fluid. remove hose, replace fill plug, reattach plastic shield thing, jack car up another half inch, remove jack stands, lower the jack and grab a beer.
My Summer car is a Porsche.
My Winter car is a 1994 Mazda MX-3 GS. 1.8L V6, K&N intake, Pacesetter Short Shift, Corksports SS Clutch line, Suspension Techniques lowered, Toyo Garit HTs for Winter Grip.
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