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WOW.. this is t4he third one that dies totally on me.. Im ronning windows up and down by touching the cables with a set of small wires... anyone know a way of converting to manual? i think its the heat... over 100 degrees and hotter in the car.. dam power windows.

By the way.. anyone know if the wondow swtich from an mx6 will work? it looks identical.

it does look pretty identical and im tired of buying mx3 switches and then have to wait for them to come my mx6 switch died on me once and that was 3 years ago my mx3 switch goes 1 or 2 times a year

that seems odd, Ive only had to replace one once and thats out of both my 3s and 11+ yrs. Have youtried electrical grease on the connections and getting vent shades so you can crack the windows and get some widow shades!

hec ur car is missing the a/c isnt it?

well i have no ac and i am in the military and everytime i go to post i have to roll the window down to give my id and i go on and off post like 5 times a day about 365 days of of the year so switches get ran through left and right but my mx6 switch i have only had to replace once since i have had the car

My MX6 drivers window switch is almost gone so I don't think they're much better. I have a 94 MX6 and it dosen't look the same at all. If you have a spare MX6 switch sell it to me there's no MX6s around where I live. Oh and I'll take the power antenna as well.

lol there dirt cheap on ebay but it was just a thought

You should be able to easilly convert to use any 2-pole rocker switch. I put a passenger switch on the drivers side, not a hard mod really, was just a pain to figure out how to actually do it and how the switches worked.

Thats what I was just thinking.... get a plate to fit in place of the old switch and wire in any common two pole switch. The thing is you'd lose the auto down feature and you'd have to be sure not to burn out the motor trying to lower the window past where its supposed to go, or higher than it can, because IIRC there are sensors that tell it when to stop...

But then again, you could maintain that too, if you leave the PCB and just wire in the new switch separate from it.

Ryan wrote:Thats what I was just thinking.... get a plate to fit in place of the old switch and wire in any common two pole switch. The thing is you'd lose the auto down feature and you'd have to be sure not to burn out the motor trying to lower the window past where its supposed to go, or higher than it can, because IIRC there are sensors that tell it when to stop...

But then again, you could maintain that too, if you leave the PCB and just wire in the new switch separate from it.

It's best to leave the circuit board there and just wire up a switch, you need it also to keep the passenger side window working. Mind you, it's just a simple motor system, you can totally re-wire it to bypass everything to take out the master switch completely. I can only see the sensors being there for the "auto" style switches. As far as I was able to tell, there was no sensors to stop it from going up or down, you'd just burn out the motor if you decided to hold the button after it's reached it max. Why you'd do that I have no idea, but it's more about user control than anything.

Here's all that's needed to do:


You just need a simple double-pole double-throw switch that can handle the current of the electric motor. The factory switches (both window and sunroof are the same) have a lead inside the switch that runs from top right contact to the bottom left (the black line in the diagram of the switch), you just need to reproduce that with a jumper wire with whatever switch you get. Wire it up as shown and you're done. I didn't have the auto-down, so I didn't lose anything on mine.