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I am on my 4th compressor since my bpt swap in june 2003. The first was my original. I have a 94 mixed with bpt ecu and engine. All ac wires should be from the mx3 and not the bpt.

first and second stopped working. the 3rd had the purge valve leak. and the 4th is leaking from a pipe near the compressor or from the compressor. I cant tell yet and I tried a uv light.

i attached one of those 134a refill with gauge attached devices and it was around 45 but moved up to 100, without filling it.


What is wrong, would a leak somehow cause it to keep building up pressure? Could it be something with my custom setup that is wrong?

was it r134a stock or did you just put r134a into a r12 system?

That shouldn't matter Ariesdude. I changed over many r12 systems. LOL I don't believe in AC.

If you leave the old oil in the system - it doesnt mix with r134a - so it stays liquid (incompressible). Imagine when the compressor tries to compress that liquid and squeeze it thru the old lines.... it will break all kinds of things...

134 stock

AC oil doesn't compress period. The oil in an ac system is a small volume in comparison to refrigerant. One tell tale sign of too much oil is a noisy or knocking compressor. To much oil results in compressor damage, never saw it blow out hoses. In fact it would inhibit compressor efficiency, reducing pressure in the system (not the head). Poor condensor operation can increase high side pressures as well as expansion valve or orifice tube restrictions. Send me your high and low pressures, note ambient temp also (should do it on a hot day for more accurate diagnosis). Also you should be flushing the system and evacuating it with repairs, as well as installing a new drier when the system is opened up.

ariesdude wrote:If you leave the old oil in the system - it doesnt mix with r134a - so it stays liquid (incompressible). Imagine when the compressor tries to compress that liquid and squeeze it thru the old lines.... it will break all kinds of things...

After the 4th compressor all of that should be out by now lol.

And that won't matter anyways unless you had more oil than you were supposed to in the system cause all AC systems need oil in them unless it comes mixed in the can.

screw ac rip the power robbing compressor off you did a bpt swap to go faster learn to roll your windows down you'll save gas, and if needed lose weight, in your very own mobile sauna.




Reaper

pressure goes up with lower rpm/rough idle and then lowers as rpm increases to a smooth idle

after turning off car the pressure goes up a lot

could it be too hot?
should the cooling fan and the condenser fan always be on when the ac is running?

thanks

must have ac as my wife and baby would appreciate it. I hate to drive my wife's accord.

nolig2278 wrote:pressure goes up with lower rpm/rough idle and then lowers as rpm increases to a smooth idle

after turning off car the pressure goes up a lot

could it be too hot?
should the cooling fan and the condenser fan always be on when the ac is running?

thanks

must have ac as my wife and baby would appreciate it. I hate to drive my wife's accord.

Did you do anything to shield it from the heat from the turbo that is literally right above it?

i just put back the bpt turbo heat shield, it had not been on there, is that enough to protect the ac?

Should I wrap my ac lines with some type of insulation to protect from the heat of the turbo?

what would be a good insulation to wrap pipes if i did?

what would be a god piece of metal to insert as a second shield between turbo manifold and ac compressor?

the ac on the stock turbo mazda b series engine have the same ac setups, heat should not be a problem

both my ac pipes get extremely hot

the space between my engine and fans should be very hot right?

should the driver side fan run while ac is on?

doesn't sound like you have a gauge set to read pressures. Have your compressors been good quality or did you get them at chiefs/kragen/pep boys. If you havn't bought four and they just exchange them probably poor quality. If you bought four then youv'e spent a lot more money than it would have cost to have a proffesional diagnose the system. In sacramento a cheap shop would charge 65$ for a basic check out. And a high end shop 200$ for an initial checkout. If you don't have guages why waste any more time? At least have competant tech diagnose it.How hot is it in florida right now? We set a record, 10 days of triple digits. Been super busy fixing cooked cars!