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ok i need to change my rear valve cover gasket and i just wanted some tips. i have oil in my plug wires. what is the best way to get that out. where can i get new spark plugs and wires at the best price and performance. what can i do while the intake manifold is off to increase performance and/or gas mileage. just any thing you can give me to help.

email me at aggressivemx@comcast.net

thank you

coolant bypass, run ONE coolant line instead of the two going into the throttlebody, run one and skip it.

Make sure no wires are touching or anything, make sure coolant lines and vacuum lines are all out of the way and not on anything hot.

Paint/ powdercoat your valve covers!!

I use NGKR spark plugs, they seem to work the best. I have heard numerous times to NOT USE bosch platinum plugs.

Wires, I would say ACCEL, Taylor, MSD, or an OE equivelent. ACCEL's will run you about 55.00, but are 8 MM and work well.

Do intake manifold gaskets as well, just to be on the safe side.

Check for faulty hoses etc..

Dont do the coolant bypass.

Worked fine for me on both Hondas and my 2.5 KLDE.....

Screwed up my idle when I did coolant bypass ..... even when I was in 100+ degree Las Vegas.

there are 3 ways to adjust idle, just compensate. Not everything is as easy as plug and play..... its to be expected.

When the IAC is fully open 100% of the time, it's impossible to get the idle under 1,000 no matter what you do.

The IAC needs the coolant to function properly plan and simple.

I agree, do NOT do that mod. It will scrw up your idle. Its there for a reason. If you want keep it cooler, get phenos.

as long as you arent a whiner about your idle speed being at 1000 rpms, then do it. Do you want performance or grandma's gas saver? I know it works, it doesnt ruin anything, and if you dont like to nit pick, its ok. Factory settings can be over ridden whenever you want, just takes some enginuity. These cars are so de-tuned from the factory it is pathetic, so factory settings and function dont hold high in my book. Think about it, a 2.5 V6 with 4 cams should put out more horsepower than a HONDA 1.6 twin cam Vtec, but they are roughly the same. These motors have potential as long as you dont worry about the little obstacles and other crap. Just do it, the engines are a dime a dozen, and its not like you are in any danger of harming it anyway so why worry about it? I know I dont want hot antifreeze running through my throttle body if I dont have too. I will take the extra 200 rpm idle speed increase gladly.

2.5mazda wrote:as long as you arent a whiner about your idle speed being at 1000 rpms, then do it. Do you want performance or grandma's gas saver? I know it works, it doesnt ruin anything, and if you dont like to nit pick, its ok. Factory settings can be over ridden whenever you want, just takes some enginuity. These cars are so de-tuned from the factory it is pathetic, so factory settings and function dont hold high in my book. Think about it, a 2.5 V6 with 4 cams should put out more horsepower than a HONDA 1.6 twin cam Vtec, but they are roughly the same. These motors have potential as long as you dont worry about the little obstacles and other crap. Just do it, the engines are a dime a dozen, and its not like you are in any danger of harming it anyway so why worry about it? I know I dont want hot antifreeze running through my throttle body if I dont have too. I will take the extra 200 rpm idle speed increase gladly.

Thats funny I thought Mazda done a great job of factory tuning their cars. But I do want coolant running through my TB so it can serve its purpose. (coolant=cooling). I didn't know a V-tech Honda could run with a ZE, I guess all the one's I beat just had bad drivers in them. If I was the one in the position of taking advise from this thread I would probably listen to the more experienced guys though like Lakers, and Custom.

the point is, it doesnt effect the engine itself in a negative way.

I said honda horsepower, not weather or not your car can beat them. That is irrelevent, I am talking about numbers not applications and drivers.

Um dont do coolant bypass... its thre for a reason man. Its the Idle Air control unit. You will run rich if this thing isnt getting a propper reading. Might as well disconnect it and adjust idle manually? I thnik im pinning down my richness to my idle air control unit. And fopr that other guy, clean your intake top valves while u at it.

The idle speed is lowered when the wax pellet gets hot and closes the air passage. The other function is to keep TB consistant temp, which allows for more precise tuning of fuel control ( effecting emmissions, driveabilty and mileage) Two thoughts; want a cooler throttle body (slightly denser air charge) or good idle cold and hot. If you bypass the throttle body then you could try blocking the air passage for cold idle. But you will have a stall problem cold. Like a carb with no choke. If you don't block the aux. air then it will idle high (annoying i would think). sacrifice one thing for another. But know this it won't make the car run rich. all other coolant functions remain the same i.e. ECT signal, engine temp etc. Might set some codes as well. Common causes for rich run are o2, maf and ECT. I am not a MX-3 expert but I am ASE master technician that has worked on cars for 19 years. I was thinking about restricting coolant to TB, the thought would be just enough heat to open valve and not anymore than necessary reducing heat to intake charge. I could monitor idle speed and idle speed commands to determine effect. But the performance gain would probably be so nominal as to not be measurable. If I have any success I'll post it.... First I'll have to get it together and running