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I got my new subs today and installed them myself, all the wiring and such went well but now I've got 2 small problems. One is that I have the amp turned to halfway and the deck at -9db for the subs and the base turned down as low as possible on the EQ with treble cranked and l mids and highs cranked on the EQ because they blow my speakers away

The other thing is from outside the car all you can hear is the hatch vibrating like a b----, is this normal? There are no vibrations when i open the hatch and put it up as loud as I want, I think because the trunk was dynamatted when I got it but if I lay my body on the glass it dulls the vibration quite a bit... does this happen to everyone? If not how do I fix it?

There should be a gain control on the amp so you don't overpower everything else.

The vibrating hatch usually can be minimized by adjusting the latch height by undoing the bolts on the latch catch and pushing it down a few millimeters and retighten.

Would the latch height have anything to do with the fact that I have to slam my trunk really hard to close it? Also by latch do you mean the U shaped hook on the top of the thing it clicks into on the bottom? Thanks

The thing the hook clicks into.

for the vibrating of my hatch i just took about 6" of eletrical tape and wrapped it around the hook part of the latch. stopped my vibrating.

did you try facing the speakers up that works on mine.

Dynomat or the equilvent to you car. My mx-3 with 2 15s rattles the s--- out of evrything in my car so i know i'm going to have to dyno mat it. The v6 project car is going to be dynomated ALL over.

I lowered the latch, but now the trunk is a b---- to close, you gotta really slam it. Ill try the tape thing. The whole trunk is already dynamatted, I'm saying the actualy glass, part, the whole top of the hatch is vibrating. As for facing the subs up, the amp is bolted onto the back of the housing can't sit the subs right on it, there would be no air circulation, that and you'd think that would make it worse, directing the sound up at the hatch.

breenmachine wrote:I lowered the latch, but now the trunk is a beech to close, you gotta really slam it.

Then you probably just need to fine tune the height. You should be moving it only about a millimeter at a time or so until you get optimal, not just slamming the thing all the way down. The main question though is: did it stop the rattling once you got it to latch?

lakersfan1 wrote:

breenmachine wrote:I lowered the latch, but now the trunk is a beech to close, you gotta really slam it.

Then you probably just need to fine tune the height. You should be moving it only about a millimeter at a time or so until you get optimal, not just slamming the thing all the way down. The main question though is: did it stop the rattling once you got it to latch?

It didn't stop it, it did muffle it a little bit though... I'm probably going to move it up a bit because I hate having to slam it so hard every time I wanna show someone the subs.

Do you still have the weatherstrip installed properly? Normally, when you cinch the hatch against the weatherstrip, it'll stop hatch rattle .....


Unless it's trim on the hatch or something else making it rattle. Good way to test is crank some bass and go back there and start pressing on panels to see if pressing on any one panel makes the noise stop. If it stops, then that panel is contributing to the noise issue.

you said you tunk in dynamatted but are the plastic pieces of the hatch dynamated if not pull them off and dynamat them also you can run a lenght of foam tape ( the thicker the better) along were the hatch meets the car you'll get a much better seal and you don't have to monkey around with the latch also run a lenght of foam tape around the door surround you'll get much less wind noise and from time to time the door rubber surround is a peice of crap and will cause water to leak into the car as well as the hatch seal only down fall you'll be required to use a little more force to close your hatch and doors but the benifit is worth it


Reaper