Driver's Side window/Sunroof/rear defrost problems..

aamuowtlaw03 · Post by **aamuowtlaw03** » March 21st, 2006, 10:32 pm

Hi all. I just purchased a 1995 model MX-3. It drives like a charm, but it does have a few issues. The most pressing one is the fact the driver's side window will not budge. My pop's said the previous owner stated the window motor is fine and it was the switch. Well, I replaced the switch today and the driver's side window still wont budge (the passenger side window works fine from both sides).

The sunroof will not budge either. I just found out this morning that the rear defrost doesn't work (the light wont come on).

I'm really not a technical person. The previous post went completely over my head (that's not saying much though!) Any help would be appreciated.

Feel free to contact me by e-mail/IM at aamuowtlaw03@yahoo.com

Grants · Post by **Grants** » March 22nd, 2006, 12:39 am

For the rear defrost, replace the 40A fuse in the engine bay for starters. Other than that - relay or switch as the little light should come on regardless of whether the defrost grid works or not.

To check the drivers window motor, you'll need to find the 2 wires at the switch that go to the motor. They are RED / GREEN an RED / BLACK. These NEED to be DISCONNECTED from the switch. If you put 12V to one of the wires and ground to the other the window should try to go up or down. Swap the 12V and ground over and the window should go in the other direction. If the window does nothing, the motors probably u/s. You'd then need to pull the door trim off and have a look at the motor and check the wires aren't broken, etc. There are diagrams here, about 3/4 of the way down:
http://eunos30x.com/info/1995%20Wiring%20Diagrams.pdf

Swap out the fuse for the sunroof under the dash as the first thing to try there.

aamuowtlaw03 · Post by **aamuowtlaw03** » March 28th, 2006, 9:03 pm

An update. I changed the fuses as suggested and that didn't fix the problems with the sunroof/rear defrost.

I also tried to run the wire from the battery to the window motor. It didn't budge, but I don't think I did it correctly. Is there a certain wire I'm supposed to use? Where am I supposed to put the ground wire? Any help is appreciated.

If I have to take the door apart, is there any diagrams that will help me with that.. Thanks in advance...

'Law

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » March 28th, 2006, 9:22 pm

The online shop manaul is under the "Tech" section on the main page's left side. It will show you how to take the door apart by showing all the clips and screws. It is super simple though.

As for the switch Grants is the resident guru, but I think I can answer your most recent questions.

First the wires to connect the 12volts to Grants posted in his answer. You can use 12 volts from the battery with the car cranked or turned off either is fine. The other wire must be grounded to any metal spot on the car (bare metal not painted metal). You also should disconnect the wires from the switch so that you don't touch the wrong wire with 12 volts and fry something.

Where di you get the new switch? Do you know that it orked before if it was used?

The sunroof switches are prone to failure too since they have the same design flaw. Grants will lead you through the testing process to find out where the problem is though. It might not be the switch, but I'd bet 10 bucks it is.

aamuowtlaw03 · Post by **aamuowtlaw03** » March 28th, 2006, 9:40 pm

PATDIESEL wrote:The online shop manaul is under the "Tech" section on the main page's left side. It will show you how to take the door apart by showing all the clips and screws. It is super simple though.

As for the switch Grants is the resident guru, but I think I can answer your most recent questions.

First the wires to connect the 12volts to Grants posted in his answer. You can use 12 volts from the battery with the car cranked or turned off either is fine. The other wire must be grounded to any metal spot on the car (bare metal not painted metal). You also should disconnect the wires from the switch so that you don't touch the wrong wire with 12 volts and fry something.

Where di you get the new switch? Do you know that it orked before if it was used?

The sunroof switches are prone to failure too since they have the same design flaw. Grants will lead you through the testing process to find out where the problem is though. It might not be the switch, but I'd bet 10 bucks it is.

Thanks.. The word "new" was relative. I got it from a salvage yard. It may be the problem. I'm going to test the window motor again though.

aamuowtlaw03 · Post by **aamuowtlaw03** » March 29th, 2006, 1:47 am

PATDIESEL wrote:The online shop manaul is under the "Tech" section on the main page's left side. It will show you how to take the door apart by showing all the clips and screws. It is super simple though.

As for the switch Grants is the resident guru, but I think I can answer your most recent questions.

First the wires to connect the 12volts to Grants posted in his answer. You can use 12 volts from the battery with the car cranked or turned off either is fine. The other wire must be grounded to any metal spot on the car (bare metal not painted metal). You also should disconnect the wires from the switch so that you don't touch the wrong wire with 12 volts and fry something.

Where di you get the new switch? Do you know that it orked before if it was used?

The sunroof switches are prone to failure too since they have the same design flaw. Grants will lead you through the testing process to find out where the problem is though. It might not be the switch, but I'd bet 10 bucks it is.

I know this may be a dumb question, but should I be running a wire from the positive post, or the negative post on the battery?

Grants · Post by **Grants** » March 29th, 2006, 4:18 am

Positive. The negative post provides ground polarity to the car frame.

aamuowtlaw03 · Post by **aamuowtlaw03** » March 29th, 2006, 5:14 pm

An update. I stopped my mechanic's shop to show off my ride and check on my work car that's having some work done to it. He offers to check my window with an apparatus that looks like a screwdriver with lights and wires hooked to it. We found out that the switch works. So it seems like it may be a motor issue. So my next questions are:

1. Is it possible that it's not the whole motor?

2. If it is the motor, is it something that is easy to replace (I'm a novice with the car issues)?

3. If it is indeed the window motor, do anybody know a place I can find one. I've come to find out that parts are really hard to find for this car.

Thanks,
'Law

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » March 29th, 2006, 5:41 pm

If you can take that door panel off - you can probably check the motor, swtch and the connections in between to see what exactly is wrong. You can find parts off ebay easily (sometimes very cheap too).

If it is indeed the motor -
I found this motor and regulator for a passenger side window -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RIGHT-MA ... enameZWDVW
If you cant find anything else you can get this item and just swap the motor alone and toss the regulator and gear assembly (if one could separate the gear assembly from the motor).

If you want a "new" motor -
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 26&ptset=A

http://rockauto.com has them for cheaper -

http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.c ... or&dp=true

aamuowtlaw03 · Post by **aamuowtlaw03** » March 29th, 2006, 7:36 pm

Another quick question, Do I have to take apart the whole door?

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » March 30th, 2006, 1:05 am

aamuowtlaw03 wrote:Another quick question, Do I have to take apart the whole door?

no just the door panel - it will look something like this after you take the panel off

It may not be exactly similar because i added custom power door locks - the online manual has some procedures listed to take the panel off.

Chemical · Post by **Chemical** » April 26th, 2006, 4:33 pm

Question for Grants or whovever can give more info. My rear demister has stopped working. The light on the switch is out too.If it's not the fuse under the bonnet then where is the relay for it?

Grants · Post by **Grants** » April 26th, 2006, 6:17 pm

There are 2 fuses for it - the one under the bonnet is the main "power" fuse and the "control" fuse is no. 9 labelled Meter in the inside fuse box. The inside fuse also does revese lights, indicators, etc.

If its the "power" fuse thats blown the indicator light won't work but you should still hear the relay click. I'm not sure but it should be under the dash. I'll check if you need me to.

johnston · Post by **johnston** » April 27th, 2006, 3:52 am

hey grants do you know anything about the sliding sun roofs

it goes back after clicking a bit but it doesnt come down straight and just jams

Grants · Post by **Grants** » April 27th, 2006, 5:05 am

Yes! Silly as it may sound, clean it! Clean the rails, under them, etc. Spend a bit of time, get right in there and do a good job.

I had the same problem when I bought mine. Used to close crooked, jam, and be a hell of a thing to close. Thought I was up for heaps. Cleaned it up and has worked for years since.

MX-3.com

Driver's Side window/Sunroof/rear defrost problems..

Driver's Side window/Sunroof/rear defrost problems..

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