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92 MX-3 with 94 KL-DE Engine
Went for inspection to day and
i pass everything except for

HC grams per mile: Reading 01.47 Limit 01.20
NOx grams per mile: Readding 03.16 Limit 02.50

How long and hard did you drive before the test?

What octane gas are you using?

Have you done the plugs, cap, and rotor within the last year? Air filter?

well the swap was done a couple of days ago,an everything on the motor is new caps,plugs,plug wires,rotor,air filter basicly i did a complete tune up on dat motor b4 it was put in....im using regular unleaded ryte now...

what ecu/vaf combo you using? That's the condition of your cat? How old are the 02 sensors? Are those idle or driving readings?

tk2269 wrote:HC grams per mile: Reading 01.47 Limit 01.20
NOx grams per mile: Readding 03.16 Limit 02.50

I had almost identical readings. Did you swap the ECU? If not, Slap 1 litre of methol Hydrate(can be found in the paint section of stores) and a full tank of highest grade fuel. Drive through the tank then fill up with another litre of hydrate and fuel and do another test and see what it says then. If it still fails, you'll need to change your cat converter and do a test right after. If it somehow still fails, swap the ecu. This will help drematically.

tk2269 wrote:well the swap was done a couple of days ago,an everything on the motor is new caps,plugs,plug wires,rotor,air filter basicly i did a complete tune up on dat motor b4 it was put in....im using regular unleaded ryte now...

I'd stick with the regular unleaded. Answer all Nd4SpdSe's questions next.

Nd4SpdSe wrote:what ecu/vaf combo you using? That's the condition of your cat? How old are the 02 sensors? Are those idle or driving readings?

kl57 ecu kl02 vaf...the cat and 02 sensors are about 2 yrs old...and thos are driving readings...

Ya, dont start adding stuff until your down to it as a last resort...i tried the coleman fuel on half a tank trick cause I didn't want to play around, I needed it for my plate sticker and since this was all being done in the winter and before my d-bay, since it's in February and win summer tires and rims, i managed to get on on a decent say with very little snow on the ground. I didn't want to take any chances and need to start driving it around in the winter, so i did the coleman fuel trick and blew by the e-test with amazing results, but if you can, get it fixed properly.

[edit]You have your EGR hooked up, right?[/edit]

how does the coleman fuel thing werk?
and im planing to chang my exhaust system wit a high flow cat n a 2.5in piping so would that help me pass the e-test?

tk2269 wrote:how does the coleman fuel thing werk?
and im planing to chang my exhaust system wit a high flow cat n a 2.5in piping so would that help me pass the e-test?

Q1 - It's already been posted last winter spring, search parameter "coleman" or "camping" in this forum.
Q2 - Not necessarily.

You haven't mentioned verifying the TPS positioning or that you verified the timing. Was a complete TPS adjust done from start to finish and not the short-cut version of the drivers side fan trick? What IM and TB are you using? What's the condition of the TB? Does it make a good seal with the butterfly and venturi?

Adjusting TPS won't do crap as it's the driving test he failed, not idle.

You're really not that far off. I'd try the Coleman fuel trick. Make sure you drive for a 1/2 hour solid before the test. And try to keep it in a gear that'll give you higher RPM's towards the end. You want to get your cat as hot as you can before going in. The catalyst works much better when it's hot, and especially in this cold weather, it's harder to keep it hot during an emissions test.

lakersfan1 wrote:Adjusting TPS won't do crap as it's the driving test he failed, not idle.

My apologies, I'll butt out now.

tk2269 wrote:how does the coleman fuel thing werk?
and im planing to chang my exhaust system wit a high flow cat n a 2.5in piping so would that help me pass the e-test?

You can just grab the methol hydrate from the paint section like I said. I passed with a 2.5 exhaust B4. I stated 1 litre b4, but I meant 1 gallon...roughly 4 litres per tank. Got confused with the whole imperial metric thing. And use high grade octane as it will burn hotter/Less additives and impurities.

MX3 GSR for dummies wrote: And use high grade octane as it will burn hotter/Less additives and impurities.

Actually, the high octane fuel burns LESS hot and LESS thorough. Most gas stations also put MORE additives in the premium (i.e. detergents). I would agree go to a more expensive gas station like a BP or Shell though.

lakersfan1 wrote:Actually, the high octane fuel burns LESS hot and LESS thorough. Most gas stations also put MORE additives in the premium (i.e. detergents). I would agree go to a more expensive gas station like a BP or Shell though.

In fact, I worked for suncor/sunoco head office Canada and the higher octanes have substantialy less "bi-product additives" which WILL show up during e-tests but I do stand corrected as there are more additives as well but are not harmful and will actually help burn a heck of a lot cleaner!
I also must agree that to stick with the main large petro distributors as they, for the most part, mix the blends specified by smaller distributors and supply them...but trust me, you would be scared to know what they are using to "water down" there fuels. And yes they will play a large part in an e-test.
I must dissagree with lakersfan since High test will in fact help you pass, and more octane does mean a higher combustion rate, therefore hotter burning temperature as long as your fuel injection system is programmed for high octane levels, in which the KL31, and KL36 are. 91 Octane would be suggested.