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Because my original braking lines were leaking, i replaced them for steel braided brake lines, but now i have a problem. When i push the pedal, i have free play for 6-7 cm, and then it is as solid as a rock. It can't be air, cause i bled the system twice. I've read that it can be worn shoes (pads were recently replaced), or a malfunction of the automatic adjuster (drums). It is also when I pull on my handbrake he rolls for another 3 meters, at walking speed before it stops. By my dads civic when i do it, the drums lock up, and he stops within 1 meter. Anyone any suggestions/ideas??

If you've got drums at the rear, adjust them manually then see how it is. if nothing else you'll know they're properly adjusted. Also, try bleeding the system again, front & rear. It's amazing how little air you need in the lines to create a problem. In my experience, it's not uncommon to have to re-bleed the lines a day or so later once all the microscopic air bubbles find their way to a high point in the line and join up to form one significant air pocket.

use speed bleeders

Sounds like you bled them incorrectly. Try bleeding them again. Make sure to flush all the old fluid out of the system. (keep bleeding untill you are getting nice clean fluid from every line. make sure the reseviour never runs low while bleeding)

Already did that. Drained all of the old fluid, then filled up the reseviour, pumped fluid in all of the lines, making sure the reseviour never came under MIN. Then started bleeding the brakes: rear right-front left, rear left-front right (is this actually the correct sequence???) No more air bubbles came out. Then repeated the process, so that the lines were really flushed several times, and still no air bubbles.

I did hear today of bleeding the master cilinder, but I thought that we didn't had to do that on our cars???

Can I install a V6 master cilinder??? I want to do a rear drum->disk swap, and in this way I vcan already start with the conversion??? Is this a possibility, and is it wise to do???
And how about attaching the brake lines to the Big master cilinder??? It differs from the small cilinder. Can you just screw those ........ (i dunno what it is called, but in the Netherlands we call them banjo's, and it is the round thingy were the bolt goes through into the master cilinder).
The small cilinder has lines that just screw into the cilinder. So how do I have to convert that???

Take it to a shop and have them do a power flush for 35 bucks. Problem solved.

That big round thing is the brake booster.

No i don't mean the brake booster. In the drum brake type, the brake lines screw right into the master cilinder. In the disk type, you have to secure the brake lines with a bolt to the Master cilinder. That's what I mean.