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Which oil is better to use and why

Regular 5W-30 ?
REGULAR 10W30 ?

SYNTHETIC 5W-30
SYNTHETIC 10W30 ???


?? WHATS THE DIFFERENCE BVETWEEN ALL THESE ? BESIDES TEH THICKNESS

Use a GOOD synthetic 5W-30. 'Good' means 'not common crap'. This means Royal Purple, AMSOIL, or Redline. Not Mobil1 or Castrol.

In my opinion Mobil 1 is a good syn oil. I'd only use those others in a race car.

I use 10w-30 in the summer, 5w-30 in the winter.

agreed 10w-30 summer
5w30 winter

Zoso124 wrote:In my opinion Mobil 1 is a good syn oil. I'd only use those others in a race car.

Mobil1 isn't even worthy of being used as an oil slick in a James Bond movie. I wouldn't use it in a garden tractor, let alone my car. If you want a cheaper synthetic that works better than Mobil1, save yourself some money and get Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40. It's only $15 for 4 quarts at Walmart, and it'll kick Mobil1's a-- any day of the week.

why's mobil 1 so crappy??

MOBIL = "First to Market Synthetic Oil" - Mobil 1 was introduced in 1974

You'd think they'd have good oil...

I use Kendall synthetic blend 10w/30 in the summer & 5w30 in the winter.

lakersfan1 wrote:

Zoso124 wrote:In my opinion Mobil 1 is a good syn oil. I'd only use those others in a race car.

Mobil1 isn't even worthy of being used as an oil slick in a James Bond movie. I wouldn't use it in a garden tractor, let alone my car. If you want a cheaper synthetic that works better than Mobil1, save yourself some money and get Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40. It's only $15 for 4 quarts at Walmart, and it'll kick Mobil1's a-- any day of the week.

Why r u so against mobil 1? I personally dont use it cause of the price and my car is 12 years old with over 200,000km. BTW for the post i use 10w 30 casterol gtx all year round.

10w 30 all the time.. keep in mind over ehre temps dont go under 20 sometimes not even under 30

From this thread....

Tunes67 wrote:The issue with synthetic oil is that it likes to get past seals, gaskets, and even piston rings.. its a very slippery oil so to speak. So unless your engine is new or has always run synthetic oil.. it would be best to use a more conventional oil. Now.. you could try synthetic oil and see if you develope any leaks or if you start burning oil more. If not.. great.. your engine is in good enough condition that you can safely run synthetic.. but.. IMO.. if you dont know the maintenance history of the engine.. changing to synthetic is only asking for problems. There are lots of good oils on the market.. and even the cheapest oil out there will work fine as long as you change your oil regularly. Thats the real key here.. regular oil changes, every 2000 to 3000 miles. My trick is to check the oil every time I put gas in my car.. If the oil is black enough that I cant see the marks on the dipstick clearly.. time to change the oil.. regardless of how many miles its been since I changed it last (never more than 3000 though) Now this is just me.. I freely admit that I am probably overly anal about this topic. But then.. I also have never had an engine I maintained die on me either

Since then, I've only used Castrol GTX and depending on where you live, ccmextreme, 10W30 is good pretty much all year round, but if you drive yours in the winter as well where it could get as cold as -15ºC (about 5ºF) or lower, then yeah, 5W30 is recommended under those conditions.

Yah woot for Quaker State Performance. 10W 30 in da summer (40 celcius max in summer here) and then 5W 30 in da winter (-40 celcius or more in the winter...don't even drive when its that cold, my tires woudl be square as a monte carlo)

The difference in all oils is marketing mostly. American Petroleum Institute has guidelines that all manufactures go by when they recommend an oil. Our KL motors recommend a SF rated oil IIRC. That is ancient technology. We are already past SL rated to SM which is excellent conventional motor oils in all forms and makes. Pick one, try it, if youre engine likes it then you will have less startup rattles and HLA noise. If not, switch to the next.
But stick with 5W30 or 10W30, depending on your climate. I use 10W30 all year round in North Carolina, but you might want to run 5W in winter if you have 30+ days below freezing.

To the mobil-1 bashers , you might actually want to do your homework:

Evidence of quality :

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ult ... 611#000000

M1 runs extended OCIs comparable with the "boutique oils" that were mentioned. Just because it's cheaper doesn't mean it is crap.
It's factory fill and recommended in the fastest American production car under $100K, the new 400+ hp Z06 Corvette - that is very telling in and of itself.

Personally I would rather just use an API SM-rated dino conventional oil and change it more frequently (not less than 3K or 4K miles is really necessary with good dino oil now) due to noises from the HLAs with *any* oil. Synthetics give slightly more power but I wouldn't run them over 7500 miles on anything japanese without a UOA (used oil analysis).

Tunes67 is right about burning. It doesn't matter if you are burning/leaking $.89 or $7.99 oil when you are consuming it...just costs more.

Lakersfan mentioned the Rotella. HD diesel oils are great in high mileage cars, Delo 400 is another good 5W40 oil. These will clean better but are somewhat thicker than 10W30 so in the winter, I'd stick with gasoline API SM oil.


Learn about oil and more at BITOG:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
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I know the past few guys hate Mobil 1. But I have recently switched to 10w30 Mobil 1 and my car idles so smooth now that you don't even hear it running and has not burnt a drop of oil. Stay away from castrol, it is awful, I burnt through a bottle a month and always had an engine knock when idling. Put in mobil 1 and it is now silent even after a few thousand hard kms.