Juans_93_MX3 wrote:Anyway, go to the search feature and look for the names Rebel2k and Babyblue. Rebel is running about 260fwhp and BabyBlue is at about 360whp. They dont use Nitrous ether
Also note that those guys have swapped out their 1.8's to the 2.5l's and turbo'd them. There are only 2-3 Mx-3'ers on here who ahve turbo'd a 1.8L, they guestimage about 200hp, but for what i read, the stock internals are weak as compared to the 2.5l's. Besides, the 2.5l are a much more tried and tested platform. Although there are no current bolt-on, there are many who have create custom setups. Check out the Probe and Mx6 communities for information on boosting a 2.5l.
Juans_93_MX3 wrote:Most people on here that want a fast MX3 swap the K8 engine for a KLDE or KLZE. A KLDE engine can be found in V6 Ford Probes, Mx6s and Mazda 626s... or is it 323s? (V6 models). They bolt straight onto the MTX and everything else.
Actually the 2.5l's are availble from Ford Probes, Mazda Mx-6, 626 and Millenia's. 323's never came with v6's. There are 2 varients of the 2.5, read further down below for a quick explanation.
FYI: People have put v6's into 323's, Protege's and such since they use the same platform as the Mx-3. So with some work, nothing custom required i believe, it's definitely doable. Custommx3 put a k8 into a 323, and there's even a KLDE 323 locally.
Juans_93_MX3 wrote:The KLZE, I dont know very much about
They have 200hp and 160ft troque.
Just like the KLDE, they bolt straight onto the MX3
The KLZE engine can get you to the low 14s alone
You can find a used KLDE with about 50k miles (I think its 50k miles) for about $500 at your local pick n pull or salavage yard. They come with water pump, ecu, ect
Depending where you live, you can get a KLZE for $800 to $1400. Just like the KLDE, they come with everything else (water pump, ect)
There are 2 version of the 2.5L v6. There is the one's available out of your local Ford Probes, Mazda Mx-6, 626 and Millenia's. Those are known as KLDE's. They output ~165hp and ~160tq. Than there is the hi-output varient available from Japan and the such that outputs ~198hp and ~165tq. Both engines are basically drop in and go. Nothing NEEDS to be changed when upgrade to a 2.5l. Ideally you wanna upgrade the things like clutch, and get the proper ECU/VAF combo, and other preventative maintenance things while the engine is out, but I would suggest doing a search on that. There is plenty of information regarding 2.5l swaps, it's sometihng that is very common around here. One benefit to a KLZE is that thy typically come wth much lower milleage than a KLDE since they come from Japan, but doesn't mean that they are in better shape (like mine)
You can get into the 14's on a KLZE as well as a KLDE. I've seen both, with the exception of mine (and I"m not too happy about that). With a good driver, a KLDE can get you high-14's (i've raced against Bonestockkid who pulled a 14.6 if i remember right) and a KLZE low-14's. I've *heard* of high-13's with just th swap (Aaron The Hic said he did a 13.8 on just the swap i believe. He later added N20 and eventually blew up his engine. Man, it's been too long, but I think he was running 11's with N20)
Juans_93_MX3 wrote:
As for a turbo system goes. You can make your own system for very cheap. Dont give into people who sell turbo kits for overpriced prices. Make your own
A KLDE can take 10PSI max
A KLZE can take 6 PSI max
check this thread out
http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=46540
ignore the fact that I put 14PSI max for the KLDE
For max boost, that's about right. Thing with a turbo's, is that you can swap in a 2.5l for less if not cheaper than doing a custom turbo setup, and you'll get about the same HP, but less reliability (forced induction is always less reliable than natrally aspirated). And a turbo isn't just pop in and go, there is alot of tuning required to get a turbo to run right. Besides, the downfall of the 1.8 is that it's only available in Mx-3's, so 1.8l-specific replacement parts (typically the internals except for the cams) are rarer and more expensive, and because of it's limited availability, there is no aftermarket internal upgrades that I'm aware of. The aftermarket on the 2.5l's however does exist, largely in part to the probe and mx-6 communities who modify their engines, so if you want to get insane on the boost for a 2.5, it's possible. Just look at Babyblue's Mx-3, quite the piece of work. If you wanna turbo, a turbo 2.5 is the way to go. Turbo-ing a K8 requires more money, more work, sacrifices reliability, as opposed to an engine swap, for the same amount of power. Also, gas milleage actually improves with swapping in a 2.5l since the engine doesn't need to work as hard to move the same amount of weight.
Also, here are pro's and cons to choosing either a KLDE or a KLZE for forced induction. ALthough a KLZE handles less max boost compared to a KLDE, because the KLZE is higher compression (10:1 as opposed to 9.2:1), you get more HP per PSI, as well as the KLZE's have better flowing heads, the runners are squared instead of round, so you can let in more air, but the higher compression gives less margin for error for tuning. A KLDE is easier because of it's lower compression, but as they cay "low compression is a poor excuse for poor tuning". I'm not a turbo guy, so I couldn't tell you exactly which way is better in the end, but that's why I know.
kiwi_MX3 wrote:Vanished wrote:Defantly don't get a super charger. Sure its nice to say "hey i got a supercharger", I agree, but its better to put the money into a new engine. Superchargers put wear and tear on an engine, and the K8 thats in there might not be in the greatest condition. Even if it is, it's still pointelss to supercharge it when you can get a KLZE for the same price. It will be more reliable, and just as fast for the same price. Trust me.
Umm id like to ask where you base your logic that superchargers put
wear and tear on a engine when a lot of manufactors build supercharged
engines as stock.
It's difference comparing a stock-designed super/turbo engine to a n/a with an aftermarket FI system. Superchangers add a load to the engine, theoretically making the engine work more since it has to work to turn the blower, on top of handling the boost being forced into the engine. but IMO, that load is negligable in terms of engine wear, and really only affects the max power output.