MX-3.com

The car:

Canadian 1994 Mx-3 V6, K8, 178 000km. Handcrafted CAI w/bumper air duct, Redline waterwetter etc ...





Here is the beginning of the KL project, which was removed from a 1996 Ford Probe GT with 175 000km.





When removed of the car (last winter):





The 2.5L KL project consists in:

-0.020'' Overbored Block (From 2497cc to 2529cc's)
-0.004'' shaved heads & block (0.002 for both of them)
-10:1 JDM KL-ZE Pistons (0.020'' over)
-Mazda OEM Ring set
-Mazda OEM Oil pump, 1.5mm shimmed relief valve
-Mazda OEM rod and crank bearings
-Fel-Pro gaskets
-JDM KL-ZE KL31 cams
-H2SO4 Acid ported IM
-Knife-edged IM
-67mm KLO1 TB
-Ported,polished & knife edged heads
-''V6 DOHC 24-VALVE'' Front valve cover
-Daikin-Exedy 225 mm clutch (KL Pressure plate)

and others which I sure forget !

____________________________________________________________

Here is my current brake setup on my Race/Street-prepared 1994 Mx-3 GS:

(Setup was completed last spring)

Setup:

-Snyper CNC-Machined/balanced cross-drilled and slotted front rotors
-Snyper CNC-Machined/balanced cross-drilled and slotted rear rotors
-Rotor heat/dust shields removed (Faster cooling & weight reduction)
-Painted and ''clear-coated''* rotors (Thickness and rotor hats)
-KVR Semi-metallic/carbon composite brake pads
-Custom adapted brake pad anti-squeak shims
-Complete caliper rebuild (boots, pins, dust seals)
-Painted and ''clear-coated''* calipers
-Techna-Fit MA-1230 braided stainless steel brake lines
-Motul DOT4 Brake fluid

* Calipers and brake rotors preparared with VHT ''aluminum cast'' brake caliper paint (spray can), Duplicolor engine clearcoat (spray can too). (All paint coats of paint have been oven baked @ 100C one hour long). Naturally, calipers have been sandblasted before painting.

Pictures:
One rear rotor, before preparation:


Motul Dot4 brake fluid, RH Rear caliper assembly, RH Front caliper assembly, Rear rotor, KVR Pads:


Front ''RH''caliper:


Rear rotors painting (note that rotor thickness, hat, slots and holes have been painted)




Techna-Fit MA-1230 Lines kit (compared to a OEM Line):



Rear calipers assemblies (Painted)




Final result (Rear) (note painted slots and holes):





Good enough for 5 years ! The result: really satisfied of this brake setup. KVR Pads need a 5 minute warm-up before they bite (Semi-metallic composite), but I am more than satisfied. I would say that braking has improved at least of 30% when compared to OEM setup.

Links:

http://www.snyperbrakes.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.kvrperformance.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.motul.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.techna-fit.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thats a nice set up uve got do u do circuit racing or something cuz u said race/street prepped setup so im assuming u do. how much did this whole setup cost u?

That's a race setup (I do autocross/Lapping) but the car is alos my summer daily driver. So that's why i wrote Race/Street setup.

The entire setup cost me $832.53 CDN (parts), and I did the whole setup by myself of course.

Thanks for the comments !

freakin awsome! way to go!!!

did you start with disc's all around or did you convert from drums?

wow!

The GS models came with front and rear disc brakes.
The RS models had drums in the rear.

Andy 93 GS

VERY nice!

so you put harder brake pads and SS lines on and you have 30% better braking? It prolly just brought you back to stock performance. Not to be a hater but that doesn't sound very race prepped to me. And why paint a rotor?

UPDATED, 28/12/2006 !

slowmx3 wrote:so you put harder brake pads and SS lines on and you have 30% better braking? It prolly just brought you back to stock performance. Not to be a hater but that doesn't sound very race prepped to me. And why paint a rotor?

Umm, I wouldn't say it's only as good as it was stock. He is definately going to have a stiffer brake pedal which means that he will be able to get on and off the brakes quicker and ultimately improve track times... The purpose of painting the rotors is to prevent rust and keep them looking nice. Also, MX-3s are only as slow as the people driving them. Although it is fun to give hondas a hard time, I wouldn't even say that a civic is slow just because it is a civic. From my perspective, who cares what kind of car you are driving. All that matters is how you have built it. Any car can be fast if the owner builds it correctly.

Edit: lol old post

Finally, the engine is here and running like a new Hiroshima one ! Here's the setup:

(Sorry dirty car !)

Last summer w/ K8:




Mechanical setup (3-year project):

-KL (1996 PGT) (Oil jet)
-0.020'' Oversize ( OEM Mazda Piston 10.1:1 KL-ZE (Corksport))
-Rings , bearings Mazda OEM
-TAE oil pump
-GMB water pump
-90amp rebuilt Alternator
-OBX lightweight damper pulley
-Block -0.004''
-KF34 Flywheel Machined & balanced
-Clutch Exedy 225mm (KL)
-Interprep 195 psi valve springs
-Interprep polished combustion chambers
-Interprep 3-angle valve job
-Interprep port & polish + knife edging (ZE Spec from KL-1A1 & KL-101 heads)
-Polished KL31 Cams
-Flow Bench on heads by interprep
- - 0.007'' heads
- Fel-Pro Viton valve seals
-all other o rings seals & gaskets = Mazda
-BKR6EGP G-Power NGK plugs gapped to 1.1mm
-Eunos 800 modified distributor
-custom ram-air bumper CAI, AEM filter (Cooant reserve still in place)
- Eunos 800 Intake manifold ported & knife edged cleaned in/out
-PGT Fuel rails
-Modified (PCV Routing) Eunos 800 '96+ Front valve cover
-TB KL47 60mm
-OBX ''Hotshot'' headers with relocalised o2 bungs (for total 3 cyl. reading)
-Brand new NTK O2's
- 70/30 coolant w/WaterWetter Redline
-AWR Engine mounts (80 DURO.)
- Synchromesh / 80w90 mix Gear Oil
-Wrapped headers (from engine to cat)
-2.25'' exhaust w/hi-flow magnaflow cat
-No-EGR
-KL55 1994 ECU (to be custom chipped by me to match VRIS and ZE Maps/ no EGR code)
-1996 KL02 AFM
-Gauges Autometer (Oil press/temp, temp. H20)


-New splash guards (mazda, all)
-Sandblasted/primed/painted 2 layer f&r crossframes, urethane bushes everywhere
-Whiteline 22mm rear swaybar w/polybushes
-Custom prothane front swaybar bushes (can't picture, they're hidden !)
-MazdaSpeed LCA bushes
-Rebuilt steering rack (new bushes and hoses from Mazda OEM)

Rated to 225hp (crank/motor), N/A (Speed Protege LSD 4.105:1 FD to come)

Nothing better than 0 kilometers ! (can't wait for summer !)
(AND YES THE ENGINE YOU SEE HERE IS A PROBE GT KL, AND IS THE SAME ONE AS THE ONE IN THE FIRST POST)

Hey man, I added you to MSN. Add me up.

Pay attention ladies and gents, this is the way a MX3 is supposed to look and be built. This man right here is my #1 inspiration for getting a silver 94 with similar mods

Takes notes! Ultra clean build, props man.

Jordan

wooooooooowwww man this is a really nice mx3!!!! i love how clean and fresh everything looks!! canadian and an intact lip?? thats awsome

fieromx3 wrote:wooooooooowwww man this is a really nice mx3!!!! i love how clean and fresh everything looks!! canadian and an intact lip?? thats awsome

You forgot no rust...seriously, what hax is this?

lovely stuff! What steering wheel is that? Ah everythings just done so right

great project ... from looks to engine ...
It makes me think ... DMN, i love MX3's