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OK i've got a Klze that will crank but will not turn over. I've got to plug wires, new plugs, new disty, new VAF, 2 new coolant temp sensors, IAC valve read within ohm from the tech man, Compression all with in 15 psi of each other (160-175 not the greatest but it should still run with that), New battery, cleaned and tightened terminals, 38 PSI from the fuel pump, after heavy cranking i can smell the unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust so assuming injectors are working plus plugs are wet after being pulled, no cracks on the intake air tube, tried all three ECU's that i have to no luck (K8, KLDE, KLZE) Have positive presure out the exhaust so i doubt the cat could be clogged bad enough to keep the engine from running. PLEASE right now i'll try just about anything to get my baby back up and running. (right now i'd give my kidney to my car if thats what it would take) ANY SUGGESTIONS! would be greatly appreciated.

wow seems like u tried just about everythin um it could be that ur timing is off. also try takin a sparkplug out and hold it against the the cylinder head and have someone crank her over and look for spark if no spark somethin is wrong with ur ignition

Sounds like no spark to me.

but he has that burn spell...meaning he has spark mnaybe its the rotor going..in my case i get fuel and no spark..no smell... hmmm when these cars go bad with the disty they are a pain..im sure u can get it up sooner or later try checking rotor and cap and check for spark also chek relays

Hey thanx for those suggestions so quick but i've used a spark tester and have solid spark from the disty through the high tension lead (already been through about 4 disty's caps and rotors to get a combination that would work for now). also today i've took each plug and held it near the strut bolt for a ground and check for a spark from then plug itself.

sounds like timing. but it would be good to make sure that you have the fuel line coming from the fuel filter to the fuel rail without the fpr.

He wouldn't have fuel on the spark plugs if the lines were backward, but a good thing to check anyway since it is easy to cross them.
I would also say to check the timing.
Also try cranking it without the VAF hooked up to the throttle body. Leave the VAF plugged in, but diconnect the hose from the VAF to the TB and see what happens. A poor VAF could cause it not to run, or your VAF could be on backwards.
It is pretty easy to get a car to crank. You only need spark, fuel and air, timing. Past that it is getting it to run well, but with the first four things it should at least start. So you know you have fuel and spark, now check air (VAF) and timing.

Have you tried adding some more grounding points? I had the exact same problem.

Alright great job on the brainstorming but i need to ask for a little more. The grounds are good pulled each spark plug out and held it against the cyl. head and got spark. So there went that hope. Well i pulled the disty cap off and hcanged the position of the rotor and she fired up kinda rough. But she's idling! Now the the only problem is that i'm idling so problem but when i give it gas the will bogg down violently shake and die. but if i ride the SLOWLY the engine speed will increase with no problems. My new major question is could this be the alternator and the engine is running off of the battery and the battery can't keep up with the amperage to keep the engine running like it should?! i've never heard of this but then i'm also at my witts end trying the find a solution. At idle i'm showing 13.64 (within specs at ilde 13-15) vdc when riding raising the rpm of the vehicle it only increases to 13.68 at 4000 rpms. I'm pretty sure that it should atleast increase to 14.5 or the higher end of the spec range one the rpms increase. I guess i'm looking for proof of my theory or hopefuly ya'll can point me in the right direction if i'm not headed there. thanx for the guys =)

if you adjusted the disty (timing) and it runs now then its a timing issue get you a timing light and see if you have the timing right on the motor now that it will idle

did you tried to pull the codes ? if any

babyblueMX3 wrote:did you tried to pull the codes ? if any

I'd Love to but unfortunalty the CEL doesn't work. Either the bulb is burned out ( doubt it ) or the previous owner disconnected it. thanx though its something that i forgot to mention earlier

Ok finnally got my buddy to bring over a timing light. jumped TEN and GND and manually set my timing. Now for the wierd bit. after restarting the car it was still having the same problem that it would die if i tried to give it some gas. Just for the hell of it i decided to let if idle and keep watching with the timing light to see what the ECU would do. Well my timing mark really started waivering through the whole range and wasn't staying in the same spot it was severly changing the timing then settling at the very end of the timing gauge range. I'm wondering now if i might be suffering a vaccum leak somewhere that might be causing the engine surge around like that and the ecu might be trying to compensate for that or a faulty ground due to corrosion or the sort and the wire can't handle a constant continuity causing the ecu to mess up in compensating then ends up over doing and so on and so on. right now i'm really fishing for ideas so i'm hoping that you guys can help point me in the right direction again. thanx for all the help so far. its really been helpful (i love search )

When you took the disty cap off and moved the rotor you may have actually messed up and moved it to the wrong position. Turn the crank untill the timing marks line up on the cams and then take the disty cap off, the disty rotor should face the cylinder #1 plug on the cap. If it is then that is ok, but if not move the rotor to make it so. Also make sure the crank is facing the timing mark. That will also tell us that your timing is spot on. If that is ok, then we can move on to other things since the spark is good.
Have you checked for good fuel pressure, is the gas old now (more than 2 months old, is the gas cap on tight?
Also the ZE ECU will not pull codes without a scanner. It doesn't have the same ten/gnd thing that the NA spec ones do.

Where'd you get this engine? Have you screwed with the cam sprockets? Make sure the rear cam sprocket has a 'R' showing and the front cam sprocket has a 'L' showing. That stupid deal kept my engine swap from running for two months until I figured out one of the cam sprockets was on upside down.