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im in the market for a new engine and i will be wanting to turbo it, ive heard that the klde will be cheaper in the long run to turbo is this true? will it have less hp in the end? What internals do i have to change for both engines? im looking for the curve neck

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i cant find anything when i search

it's been dicussed many times..
but the big lines are..
bigger output with the ze with the same boost on a de
ze is more critical as far as tuning goes.
you can't run high boost like you can on a de.

bottom line is you can turbo both and have great results.
if it is for low hp goals (around 270hp). Then a ze would be best for you IMO since it probably has lower mileage on the engine.

o0loopy0o wrote:i cant find anything when i search

First section - keywords for search ie, CAI, turbo, struts, TB, IM, coolant etc
Second is for author (if known) - in this case you would insert spinkx79
Third for which forum - in this case V6 performance forum
Then select Search

It's gonna take some time to get the hang of it, but once you've done it a few times , should be a wiz. Best way to research anything you want to know. Tons of data there to be had, especially for your particular subject. Hope this helps

baby blue, im looking for around 300hp as a daily driver for a goal, id really LOVE a klze turbo like you have but doubt i could afford to build it like you did. Also i would be buying the engine this year and having it rebuilt, can i run an engine built for a tubo and not put the turbo on till next year.? Would you be able to help me put something together like you have but with a smaller budget?

I did do some searches on it and found the Klze would run less boost but could it get to 300hp?

If i set both a klze and a klde at 300hp what would have better torque
Im assuming the klze would have a smaller turbo and spool faster?

i managed to find a Klze without a cpu locally for $950 from japan with around 60-80,000 km with my discounts. Would that be a good place to start??

o0loopy0o wrote:baby blue, im looking for around 300hp as a daily driver for a goal, id really LOVE a klze turbo like you have but doubt i could afford to build it like you did. Also i would be buying the engine this year and having it rebuilt, can i run an engine built for a tubo and not put the turbo on till next year.? Would you be able to help me put something together like you have but with a smaller budget?

I did do some searches on it and found the Klze would run less boost but could it get to 300hp?

If i set both a klze and a klde at 300hp what would have better torque
Im assuming the klze would have a smaller turbo and spool faster?

i managed to find a Klze without a cpu locally for $950 from japan with around 60-80,000 km with my discounts. Would that be a good place to start??

the turbo you'll use on the klde and klze will be the same, since compressor calculation uses rpm, engine displacement and pressure ratio wich will all be the same for both engines.you could make 300hp on a klze turbo easily (we're talking hp here not whp). The klze will give you better throttle response due to it's higher compression ratio

I could try to help you out if you want. Get me on msn and we could chat about it

Its cheaper to go with a KLDE and turbo it
On a KLZE, you have to change alot of the internals.
KLZE's have 40hp more than KLDE's and since the KLZE engines have more compression, you will gain more power from a turbo. Tuning is critical though and you cant run as much PSI as you can on a KLDE.
Like, I said, only problem with turboing a KLZE is the stock internals wont take it.

Check out Rebel2k4's turbo setup, he has about 260whp.
On stock internals he is running something like 14-16PSI
On a KLDE of course

how much hp do you lose to go to whp? how much is 300hp to whp?

o0loopy0o wrote:how much hp do you lose to go to whp? how much is 300hp to whp?

There is usually about 20% drivetrain loss. So 300 hp will be approx. 240whp. And i think rebek2k4 was only running 7-8 psi on his de when he dyno'd 260whp. klde's can handle a good amount of boost on stock internals. And of course having the engine well-tuned is the key.

Here is a link that might be helpful that should give you a idea about rebuilding a KLDE/KLZE for boost
http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=

If you want serious power 350whp or even better, it wouldnt hurt buying a very cheap high mileage $200 KLDE engine, valves, valve springs, rebuilding it with forged internals (except the already forged crank) and ported KLZE Heads/Intake than a turbo.

You might end up spending anywhere from $6000-$12000 on such a setup. Keep in mind though, you would have a bullet proof engine pushing 20PSI of boost and almost everything on the engine would be brand new.
You might have to replace the tranny's internals with strong internals. Also, a high HP Axel, engine mounts, suspension and a couple other things.
It would be cool if you can get your car to be AWD in the end somehow. But I am betting that the chassis would need some re-tubing to do so. Even more $$$ and time.

Juans why do you say the internals of the klze won't take it ? It is just the same thing as the klde minus de high CR pistons.
IMO for under 10psi go for klze and for higher go Klde

babyblueMX3 wrote:Juans why do you say the internals of the klze won't take it ? It is just the same thing as the klde minus de high CR pistons.
IMO for under 10psi go for klze and for higher go Klde

I have heard a couple times around this board that the internals of a KLZE wont take it espically the rods because they will bend like grass and that the engine wont last long. Maybe I am wrong?


Check out this quote

lakersfan1 wrote: the factory rods in a KLZE will bend like grass in the wind over 200 HP, and aftermarket rods usually dicate you'll need custom pistons to go with them. All the gaskets and bearings you'll need during the rebuild will be another $500.

If you take the engine apart and look at those rods, it'll take 2 seconds to understand they need replacing. The stock KL rods were designed for light weight, not strength. I wouldn't put more than 5 or 6 PSI on the stock ones, which would equate to about 200-220 wheel horsepower.