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Okay, a couple of things I was hoping my fellow BPT-ers could recommend.

1. Suggestions on a high flow cat that will fit. What are you all using? (P.S. I installed the Corksport "Power Series" downpipe)

2. Regarding that pipe that bolts to the turbo that goes to the right where the stock intercooler would be, I need to redirect the airflow to the left and around to the front mount intercooler. I know several of you have FMICs so what did you do to reroute the piping?

3. This is a dumb one, sorry, but where the hell do I fill the tranny fluid on the Protege LX transmission?

Thanks for the help. This thing is almost done... I hope.

search jegs.com and get a high-flow cat with in the proper diameter. they are pretty cheap too

i took the original pipe that bolted on to the turbo to a machine shop and had them copy the flange and just weld a 2" pipe to it (probably about 4" long"). then you can custom bend the rest of your piping as needed.

tranny fluid is filled through the speed sensor hole.

Awesome, thank you. Not sure what they mean by "air tube" on the catylitic converters. I'm assuming we MX-3ers do not have these.

Did everyone else pretty much do the same thing with the intercooler?
(I kinda thought that would be how I'd have to do it.)

correct, we do not have an air tube.

First off, major thanks to all who have helped me out on this swap by replying to my posts. I am nearly done, but there is no way transmission fluid is going into that speedometer sensor hole. The fluid just stops and inevitably spills out of the funnel hose. The online manual for the 1995 MX-3 DOHC fills through a hole on the side of the tranny, but that is gear oil I thought. I don't know much about transmissions, only what I've gathered from the forums here. I am lost here and can't seem to just fill this thing with the fluid I lost taking out the axels.

Cpl_Bryant wrote:First off, major thanks to all who have helped me out on this swap by replying to my posts. I am nearly done, but there is no way transmission fluid is going into that speedometer sensor hole. The fluid just stops and inevitably spills out of the funnel hose. The online manual for the 1995 MX-3 DOHC fills through a hole on the side of the tranny, but that is gear oil I thought. I don't know much about transmissions, only what I've gathered from the forums here. I am lost here and can't seem to just fill this thing with the fluid I lost taking out the axels.

The speedo hole is really the best place to do it. Have you tried draining it? maybe it has too much in it already??

All the MOCA guys fill the tranny fluid thru the speedo hole and never have any problems.

Hmm, well I guess it has enough then. Thinking back I don't recall losing that much when the axles came out, so maybe I'm alright there.

Now after putting everything back together, the car is still up on jackstands with the axles & rotors and all that just floating with no wheels on yet. I put the car in gear and the axles don't spin. The speedometer goes up and down, but the hubs don't move. I can move them by hand, but there seems to be a lot of resistance. I just put new pads in the calipers and they are tight. I can also move in and out of all gears without depressing the clutch pedal. I went to put it in reverse and it grinded so I didn't. I can also leave it in gear and let off the gas completely and it does not stall. It just goes back down to idle as if it were in neutral. I have the ACT clutch and Fidanza flywheel. Any idea what's wrong?

Also, while doing this, the car got super hot and I had to shut it off to cool down. I have had it running before in neutral and revved it up and haven't had it overheat at all. My coolant level in the reservoir doesn't change. I am wondering if the car is even circulating the coolant. Is my water pump shot? Am I just noticing this now because the car has a load on it by being in gear? This is not cool... literally

Oh, and another thing, when I manually turn either hub by hand, the other side still doesn't. I thought that if I turned one of them, it would turn the other. Can't remember which one, but neither worked anyway. What is wrong? I am dying here.

Ha, driver's side axle was not in the transmission all the way. Wow I am dumb. Both wheels spin now, but clutch doesn't fully disengage. Maybe some more air bleeding tomorrow.

Cpl_Bryant wrote: Both wheels spin now, but clutch doesn't fully disengage. Maybe some more air bleeding tomorrow.

A good reason for the clutch not engaging is the clutch pedal height and freeplay are not adjusted correctly. ACT's clutches' have this problem. You can go to my swap sight for details.

I had the same prob with mine. If you do not have the steel braided cluth line yet, GET IT. Mine did the same thing with the stock rubber hose, but when i replaced it, it worked perfectly.

Thanks, I will do both. I figured it was something to do with the ACT clutch. I read your swap a LOT before hand. How can I tell when it is fully engaged/disengaged? Just try to put it in gear?

So I adjusted the clutch pedal out and it works just fine. Maybe I'll hold off on the clutch cable for a while. At least until I iron out whatever other details are left. Thanks for the help all.

the compression stroke begins when the piston is down all the way and begins making its way back up. both sets of valves are closed(creating a sealed chamber) as the piston moves up. as this piston moves up the air is compressed because of the decrease in volume of the chamber. when the piston reaches TDC (or nearly TDC if you want to get technical) the spark plug is fired causing the fuel to burn and the piston to move back down (power stroke).

I think you meant that for another thread.