Having an idle problem

4-Cyl. Technical/Performance Discussions
Post Reply
User avatar
freyguy_412
Regular Member
Posts: 321
Joined: February 13th, 2005, 12:15 pm
Location: Sparks, NV in the USA
Contact:

Having an idle problem

Post by freyguy_412 »

Hey, from research I've done so far I think I know what I got to try, but I wanted to give the whole situation and see what people thought.

When it's cold out side, and I put my foot on the brake pedal, my RS starts surging from idle speed to about 1500 rpm's. When I let go of the pedal, the car will jump up to 1500 and slowly think about coming down. I'm betting the TPS cleaning procedure (Tunes67 thank you for an awesome write up) is needed, BUT here are the extra circumstances.

I just performed the throttle body coolant line modification. While I was doing that, I took out that resenator that goes before the ISC valve, and just hooked up the shorter hose to that port. I've tried hitting all the connections with a flammable silicone aerosol (no WD40 at the time) and didn't get any wierd surges. When it's warm outside, the car idles great, but at night or in any cool weather, it's getting tempermental. Is cleaning the TB the least of my concerns?
It might be slow, but it's not a civic!
jimishadow
Regular Member
Posts: 568
Joined: February 25th, 2004, 2:01 am
Location: pa

Post by jimishadow »

chec your brake power booster, plug vacuum hose and see if it goes away
User avatar
Tunes67
Supporting Member
Posts: 4708
Joined: January 27th, 2005, 6:36 pm
Location: Everett, WA
Contact:

Post by Tunes67 »

No sweat on the write up man.. and your issue does sound like a sticking IAC valve.. However.. I am not familar with this..
I just performed the throttle body coolant line modification. While I was doing that, I took out that resenator that goes before the ISC valve, and just hooked up the shorter hose to that port
And it does seem a bit weird that your problems started after doing this.. whats the idea behind this mod? And just for reference sake.. the job of the IAC valve is basically the same as a "Choke" on a carburated car.. its just computer controlled. It works in conjunction with your coolant temp sensor and ECU to determine how much air to allow through to control your idle speed during warm up. Cheers

Tunes67
"So long.. and thanks for all the fish!" "Momma says VW Bugs are the devil" "This one time at band camp.. I stuck a flute in my Throttle Body" ;)
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"

I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
User avatar
freyguy_412
Regular Member
Posts: 321
Joined: February 13th, 2005, 12:15 pm
Location: Sparks, NV in the USA
Contact:

Post by freyguy_412 »

.. However.. I am not familar with this..

Quote:
I just performed the throttle body coolant line modification. While I was doing that, I took out that resenator that goes before the ISC valve, and just hooked up the shorter hose to that port
The coolant line modification I found on here somewhere. It is supposed to help keep the air entering the tb cooler, since those lines are only pumping hot water up there anyway. The resenator was between my ISC valve and the air intake tube. I figured resenators are bad everywhere else, and figured this one should go away too.

To check the brake power booster, I just remove that large hose going to the intake manifold and plug the ports I assume? Do I drive the car with out the power brakes to test this theory? Thanks for the help so far.
It might be slow, but it's not a civic!
User avatar
Chino921
Regular Member
Posts: 59
Joined: October 27th, 2003, 2:01 am
Location: Ohio

Post by Chino921 »

The fastest way to diagnose a bad brake booster is to let the car idle and spray it down with starting fluid. If there is a leak, then the motor will rev up.
Post Reply

Return to “4-Cyl. Technical/Performance”