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ok i did the research and got all the info i needed to get this done. Went by all the diagrams and information given to complete this. At first i just did the HEI mod and it worked fine. THen today i go to add on the external coil and the car runs like complete s---.

It now has a massive backfire, studder, or miss at around 2800+ rpms. When it gets to this point it will misfire or something and at the same time the lights will dim as if there is some short in the wiring. I went over everything several times, rewired some things and still the same outcome. I even tried bigger ground wires and a way bigger wire off of the 6 pin connector.

Im wondering what is going on exactly and if anyone has had this problem yet as well.

How is your blaster coil mounted?
Horizontally or Vertically?

Its sitting right on top of the frame right next to the AC line.

Ok i hooked up my stock computer and ended up pulling a code 3 Camshaft PS and 29 which is nothing im worried about. So now the question is why is it pulling up this code if everything is hooked up right.

alright i got rid of the camshaft sensor problem at 3k rpms. I believe the metal wheel inside of the disty that turns was not lined up or something cause it to throw that code and run like s---. So that got fixed then i fired it up and it seemed to run fine, then i go for a test drive and its got a miss around 4k now. anything over or under that is fine. But i know what is going on now.

I wonder if for some reason the computer is having trouble reading the timing? I know that the V6s use a crank angle sensor for this and the 4 bangers use the cam angle sensor. However, I'm not sure if the V6s use the cam angle sensor for some part of it. It is obviously somehow realted cause when you change the rotor position it runs better (is this the case or did the problem just move from one RPM to another?) I'll think on this some and hopefuly be able to come up with something... I know this post is no help, I just need some clarification as to whether the rotor helped or just changed the problem.

well i forgot to add that when i put it all together the last time i didnt put any epoxy over the screw inside the cap that holds on the power tower or any over the old piece that i cut off. So im guessing that it's getting an arc in there at that rpm... thats just my off the top of my head guess. Ill fix it today and see if it works right.

what diagram did you use exaclty ?
and did you disable the internal coil in the disty ? no sure if it'll do something but might want to look into it.

i used your diagram and the one on project mazda. Yes i pulled out the stock POS coil and the 3 pin connector thing also. It seemed to work fine but it should work perfect after this epoxy dries that i just put on.

ok then keep us updated on how things will go once it dries