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replacing sway bar end links

Posted: June 26th, 2005, 10:03 am
by Dave Rocque
anybody replace their own rear sway bar end links? Have difficult is this likely to prove? I have a sneaking hunch that I may need a cut off torch, doesn't look like socket wrench and elbow grease is going to cut it. Any suggestions on wether to go with OEM replacements or aftermarket? Any suggestions would be grand.

Posted: June 26th, 2005, 4:41 pm
by Mazderati
Dave

I busted mine a couple of months back and the best replacement option I have found is to head to an industrial supply place and make them out of Heim joints. The mazda repalcements are stupidly expensive and there doesn't seem to be any other cars ones that fit on an MX3. A guy in the MX-6 forum offered to make them, see this thread. However, its cheaper to make these ourselves.

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124075

best of luck....

Mazderati


:lol: :lol: :lol: 8) 8)

links

Posted: June 27th, 2005, 12:09 pm
by Spinkx79
A guy in the MX-6 forum offered to make them, see this thread. However, its cheaper to make these ourselves.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124075
For taking the old ones off, get a grinder. OR you will waste an hour with a hacksaw like i did.

I bought the links off the MX-6 guy. They are nice, i dont think the fornt ones will fit though.

As for making them yourself for cheaper, go ahead and try. I did...you wont get stainless for cheaper than that. At least I couldnt, and i tried all over.

Steel ones will work too, but will most likely rust and or sieze (squeek squeek).

g/l

Posted: June 30th, 2005, 4:30 pm
by jschrauwen
How about aircraft supply. Usually NiCad plated and are used in multitude of applications.....I'm sure Kiwi could expand on this and perhaps even quote specific suppliers/part numbers. I've used a number of heim joints on my Ducati for my rear brake caliper mount - it has to pivot with the swing-arm. Not a spec of rust in 15 years. If someone could post the exact sizing that applies to front and rear wrt lengths and the bolt hole diameter, I may be able to do a little sleuthing around.

Matt, if you know the NSN # for them also, that would minimize my sleuthing and be very helpfull. :wink:

Posted: July 2nd, 2005, 1:08 pm
by Dave Rocque
excellent. There happens to be a grinder sitting on the workbench in my father-in-laws barn along with a nice hydraulic jack system so that's convenient. Obviously if I'm going to replace one side it only makes sense to do the other at the same time. Those stainless links from the MX6 guy look and sound pretty sweet and reliable so I've already sent him and email and I think that is the way to go. Thanks for the input. Will post the experience of switching when done in a few weeks.

Posted: July 3rd, 2005, 7:57 pm
by Gro Harlem
they are easy to replace IF the stupid bastard nuts come off.

but they won't...so yeah its a pain in the a--.

using an impact wrench is ur only hope..but the stupid shaft that the nuts are threaded onto can come loose and turn w/the nut. Tehn you gotta cut the f0ckers off with a hacksaw.

I had to do that with one of the ones on my front swaybard :(

Posted: July 3rd, 2005, 8:49 pm
by 95 rs
screw the hacksaw get me a torch :twisted:

Posted: July 4th, 2005, 1:51 pm
by Spinkx79
Gro Harlem wrote:Tehn you gotta cut the f0ckers off with a hacksaw.
:(
I cut one off with a hacksaw got a 1/4 of the way throught the other and my neigbour came over with an angle grinder, took the nut off in about 6 seconds. Then one tap with the hammer and it poped out.