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What do you guys think about this 1.6L SOHC upgrade?

Posted: May 11th, 2005, 12:26 am
by adomx3
Any idea on what it can yileld?
Add ons:
Walbro Fuel Pump
330cc Injector
Pro LX TB
RX7 VAF
Under Drive Pulley
CATBACK Exhaust
Corksport headers
CAI
DOHC ECU
I was thinking it might take the SOHC up to 110 ish HP. Since HP is made when air and fuel is mixed? CAI for more air and Walbro and 330cc for fuel. I am in the process of getting a BP, but i was just wondered what this setup would give!

Posted: May 11th, 2005, 12:50 am
by atlantamx3
with 330cc's you will drown the damned thing and be getting a BP before you know it!

The DOHC ECU wont do you any good.

And you will NEVER get the SOHC 16v B6 to put down 110hp.

Mine put down 66.7hp to the wheels back in 2001, and you are talking about nearly doubling that figure.

Without Forced induction or MAJOR machine work- it will never happen.

Posted: May 11th, 2005, 3:40 am
by 93SOHC
71 HP at the wheels with a CAI, ground wires and catback. On a good day that is! I'd post the dyno sheet, but my scanner decided not to work anymore. I just got it dynoed to compare the results to my BP swap! For the amount of internal work needed to get any real HP outta the b6 sohc, it's just plain not worth it. I've considdered this many times and it just isn't practical.

Posted: May 11th, 2005, 10:23 pm
by Cpl_Bryant
In my opinion, all those parts would yield a big waste of money. Sorry. I hate my 1.6 SOHC with a passion and the sooner I finish working on this BPT and do the swap the better. I think I will shoot the SOHC engine with a 50 cal when I'm done with it.... yeah.....

Posted: May 12th, 2005, 1:13 am
by 93SOHC
hahaha! I'm giving mine to an aquaintence, who has a large boat on lake Michigan, to use as a boat anchor. Thats actually what I did with my Subaru engine block as well(properly drained, flushed, and cleaned before going into the water ofcorse. I don't pollute!)

Posted: May 14th, 2005, 11:01 pm
by Yoda
I've been doing a lot tinkering with the B6 SOHC rather that the KL's lately. The modifications you have listed will probably only equal a net loss and some items will not work at all. My engine is a 8V version and last dyno run was pushing 91hp at the wheel with a clutch that is slipping slightly (what do you expect at +300000km). A couple things I would recommend is bigger is not better and you want to increase velocity not volume of air into any of the B series engine. The only 2 things that I would recommend to make marginally larger is the over all diameter flex pipe and the diameter (but shorter length) of the air filter if using a conical air filter. All my modifications were routine maintanence wear items that I manufacture upgraded replacements from scrap materials around the shop when it became necessary to fix something so my total cost was only about $500 over what I had to spend anyway.

Posted: May 15th, 2005, 12:56 am
by freyguy_412
Air+Fuel=Hosepower... you aren't wrong there, but most stock fuel systems are more than capable of running an intake and complete exhaust without batting an eye. You only need bigger injectors for boost or major motor work.

Posted: May 22nd, 2005, 11:10 am
by Yoda
I wouldn't say never.

I a previous daily beater the (8V) B6 was making 108hp 121ft/lb at the wheels. The head was reworked a little on this one when the original head warped. Granted the (16V) SOHC just don't make the power of the older (8V) SOHC
atlantamx3 wrote:with 330cc's you will drown the damned thing and be getting a BP before you know it!

The DOHC ECU wont do you any good.

And you will NEVER get the SOHC 16v B6 to put down 110hp.

Mine put down 66.7hp to the wheels back in 2001, and you are talking about nearly doubling that figure.

Without Forced induction or MAJOR machine work- it will never happen.

Posted: May 22nd, 2005, 11:36 am
by Yoda
If you don't changed the O2 sensor every 60000km (40000mi) your engine is running a little richer that necessary anyway. Especially with the single wire O2 that are used on the SOHC. The goal of modifying any engine is to achieve a balanced air flow and velocity through the engine if not being slightly negative (more exhaust that intake) which with create a vacuum on the intake side when the intake valves open drawing in more air that was could normally flow into the engine. About the only fuel mod you would need is an adjustable FPR becauses the OE FPR tends to supply to much at lower rpm's. then be right on the make at around average operating conditions (2500-3500) then start to lean out as you approch redline.
freyguy_412 wrote:Air+Fuel=Hosepower... you aren't wrong there, but most stock fuel systems are more than capable of running an intake and complete exhaust without batting an eye. You only need bigger injectors for boost or major motor work.