How i managed to pass my e-test after an initial fail
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How i managed to pass my e-test after an initial fail
** The only reason im posting my results and what i did to make my 1992 MX-3 GS pass e-test here in Ontario is to help you guys out there pass your e-tests too .
FIRST E-test (FAIL)
SECOND E-test (PASS)
As you can see my readings in all areas drastically dropped when compared to the first test. What work did i do to the car between the first and second test....
- Oil Change (10w30 Valvoline HighMileage Motor Oil /w 32oz of Lucas Oil Stabilzer)
- New NGK Spark Plugs (Part No. BP01-18-110)
- TKO 2000 Fuel System Treatment ( As seen at http://www.kleenflo.com )
- 87' Octane Sonoco gas
- Drove for 250km's and then went for test. The last 50km's was all highway...just before the test.
This is why i did the above things....
After some research, i found out hydrocarbons are caused mainly by unburnt fuel and burning oil. So being that my car was burning oil, that's why i did the oil change with 10w30 Valvoline HighMileage Motor Oil /w 32oz of Lucas Oil Stabilzer....to get the oil VERY THICK so that it wouldn't get though the seals n' s--- as easy.
I put the NGK Spark Plugs in mainly because they were only 20 bucks for 6 and for peice of mind knowing that i tried it.
I put the TKO 2000 fuel treatment in by a recommendation from the mechanic who did my first e-test. It's supposibly wayyy beter than that 'Gurenteed to Pass' crap you buy at Canadian Tire.
I put the 87' Octane Sonoco gas in between it's the only gas around me that has 10% ethonal in it (burns cleaner). I didn't go for the 94 octane because im too cheap lol.
I drove 250km's after doing all the above things because i phoned the company that produced the TKO 2000 product and that's what they suggest i do.
FIRST E-test (FAIL)
SECOND E-test (PASS)
As you can see my readings in all areas drastically dropped when compared to the first test. What work did i do to the car between the first and second test....
- Oil Change (10w30 Valvoline HighMileage Motor Oil /w 32oz of Lucas Oil Stabilzer)
- New NGK Spark Plugs (Part No. BP01-18-110)
- TKO 2000 Fuel System Treatment ( As seen at http://www.kleenflo.com )
- 87' Octane Sonoco gas
- Drove for 250km's and then went for test. The last 50km's was all highway...just before the test.
This is why i did the above things....
After some research, i found out hydrocarbons are caused mainly by unburnt fuel and burning oil. So being that my car was burning oil, that's why i did the oil change with 10w30 Valvoline HighMileage Motor Oil /w 32oz of Lucas Oil Stabilzer....to get the oil VERY THICK so that it wouldn't get though the seals n' s--- as easy.
I put the NGK Spark Plugs in mainly because they were only 20 bucks for 6 and for peice of mind knowing that i tried it.
I put the TKO 2000 fuel treatment in by a recommendation from the mechanic who did my first e-test. It's supposibly wayyy beter than that 'Gurenteed to Pass' crap you buy at Canadian Tire.
I put the 87' Octane Sonoco gas in between it's the only gas around me that has 10% ethonal in it (burns cleaner). I didn't go for the 94 octane because im too cheap lol.
I drove 250km's after doing all the above things because i phoned the company that produced the TKO 2000 product and that's what they suggest i do.
- jschrauwen
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Outstanding write-up QS. Glad to see you passed too. I think I may be close to passing one too. Just changed my plugs also and I'm starting to see the light tan colour on them like they should be. To be on the safe side I still might do what Mike (Nd4SpdSe) did and dump a little naptha in the gas tank the day befor the test. It probably helped that I did a teardown and cleaning of the Tb, cleaned the VAF, changed the PCV, changed the plugs, reset the TPS and idle, cleaned the O2 sensor, cleaned the thermosensors, changed the engine (Red Line) oil, changed the TX (Royal Purple)oil, cleaned and re-oiled the air filter (K&N) and cleaned the contacts and rotor in the disty. I'm hoping every little thing helps. I'll have a serious look at the TKO2000 though.
Again, thanks for the write-up.
Again, thanks for the write-up.
Last edited by jschrauwen on May 8th, 2005, 10:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
I had lots of trouble with too high CO (even with a brand new cat).
Heres what I did: removed my HKS filter kit completely, and ran it without it for 30 minutes before the test, and drove the car real hard so it got warm and nice.
Then all my levels dropped totally (from a CO level of about 4 to 0.26).
(I had replaced oil, plugs, o2 sensors and the cat before this last test.)
So, moral of the story... always check if your airfilter filters enough, mine was probably clogged, and such the engine got too much fuel and too little air.
Just bothers me that I didnt try it before I replaced everything.
nope-mx3
Heres what I did: removed my HKS filter kit completely, and ran it without it for 30 minutes before the test, and drove the car real hard so it got warm and nice.
Then all my levels dropped totally (from a CO level of about 4 to 0.26).
(I had replaced oil, plugs, o2 sensors and the cat before this last test.)
So, moral of the story... always check if your airfilter filters enough, mine was probably clogged, and such the engine got too much fuel and too little air.
Just bothers me that I didnt try it before I replaced everything.
nope-mx3
:: 2001 Mazda Mx-5 Sport // 2013 Volvo V40 D2 Momentum ::
- jschrauwen
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You and me both!!nope-mx3 wrote:So, moral of the story... always check if your airfilter filters enough, mine was probably clogged, and such the engine got too much fuel and too little air. Just bothers me that I didnt try it before I replaced everything. nope-mx3
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
- Tunes67
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Also.. a freshly oiled K&N air filter can cause you to fail emissions. Or any other type of oiled air filter.. ran into that issue on my nova.. I tuned my car at a buddies shop, he had access to one of the emissions sniffers.. and we had it running perfectly and easily passed the sniffer.. the next day I cleaned and oiled the air filter, 2 days after that.. I failed the emissions test for the state.. took it back to my buddies shop and it failed on his sniffer.. he took off the K&N.. ran it for 5 minutes, revving it up good.. then sniffed it again and it passed with flying colors.. Its possible I used to much oil when I re-oiled the filter.. Back then the K&N filters didnt come pre-oiled.. but came with a small pouch of oil to use with them or you could buy it in a spray. I ran it through emissions without the K&N and it passed perfectly.
Another Moral Beware of oiled air filters if you are failing emissions
Tunes67
Another Moral Beware of oiled air filters if you are failing emissions
Tunes67
- Chronicle-Rod
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- Nd4SpdSe
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You know, I've been tempted to try that stuff, I though it was just a gimic product so I've never looked into it, but it guess it's the real-deal.
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
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Yah this Lucas Oil Stabilizer kicks a--. Before putting this stuff in my 1.8L engine i was going though about 1L of oil every 2500km. It's now 1800km now with this stuff and it's still at the FULL mark on the dipstick :]. Very impressed.Nd4SpdSe wrote:You know, I've been tempted to try that stuff, I though it was just a gimic product so I've never looked into it, but it guess it's the real-deal.
- mitmaks
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interesting read
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks
- Nd4SpdSe
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I'll definitely give that stuff a try on the 626. Is it OK to use it with Synthetics?quicksliver wrote:Yah this Lucas Oil Stabilizer kicks a--. Before putting this stuff in my 1.8L engine i was going though about 1L of oil every 2500km. It's now 1800km now with this stuff and it's still at the FULL mark on the dipstick :]. Very impressed.Nd4SpdSe wrote:You know, I've been tempted to try that stuff, I though it was just a gimic product so I've never looked into it, but it guess it's the real-deal.
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
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Nd4SpdSe wrote:I'll definitely give that stuff a try on the 626. Is it OK to use it with Synthetics?quicksliver wrote:Yah this Lucas Oil Stabilizer kicks a--. Before putting this stuff in my 1.8L engine i was going though about 1L of oil every 2500km. It's now 1800km now with this stuff and it's still at the FULL mark on the dipstick :]. Very impressed.Nd4SpdSe wrote:You know, I've been tempted to try that stuff, I though it was just a gimic product so I've never looked into it, but it guess it's the real-deal.
No idea. Didn't read anything about synthetics on the bottle though...
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