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what is the easiest way to change the timing belt on our ZE engines while they are in the car. If any ideas please share

easy way? not really.

our engine compartment is very tight with the V6 in it.

put a jack under the motor and remove the pasenger side mount, remove the timing belt cover, both belts and tentionners n stuff, take off the belt, put on new one trying not to lose timing and reverse the previous steps.. sounds easy doesnt it? it isnt no wonder Mazda charges a leg to do this.

i spent like 2 days doing it on my V6... to change the water pump...
i could do it in 2 or 3 hours now that i know the process....
and yeah... you need small hands to do it.. the space is very tight.

See the online shop manual in section F-2 for the exact procedure. It's the same between the K8 and KL (DE and ZE both) motors.

The procedure is like Bmwm3guy said for the most part. To save some aches and pains, you may want to remove the hood. Also, make sure to set the car on jackstands at a height that makes it comfortable for you to bend into the engine bay for extended periods of time. I just finished a water pump on a KL-powered 93 special edition yesterday, and it's not too bad as long as you know what you're doing, or if you have the shop manual as reference if you're not quite familiar with the procedure. There are a few non-typical tools you'll need. A prybar set helps tons. A second hydraulic jack with a block of wood comes in handy for llifting and lowering the motor as needed. You'll need a small, STRONG pin (I use a tiny nail) to hold the hydraulic tensioner compressed while working. A second set of hands is helpful when aligning the timing marks when installin the new belt. A hot girl is desirable, but quite distracting when doing this job, because your mind will be on the many many MANY things you'd rather be doing to her, than on the job that you'd rather not be having to do. Do have adequate lighting. It's a squeeze in there. Have the standard sizes of sockets in both deep and shallow fitments, on 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" drives. Ratcheting wrenches are a GODSEND in a couple of spots. But just reference the shop manual for procedure, and take your time and do it right. DO change ALL rubber (seals, hoses, belts, FRONT MAIN SEAL, CAM SEALS, etc) and the water pump while you're over there. Good luck!

Daniel

or have a licensed buddy-mechanic do it for you for cheap (like I did) only was like $300 to do water pump/belt/right axle (included parts)

Well, if you have a competant one that'll do it for $300, thats a pretty good call. I typically charge $150-200 labor to do a K-motor timing belt, and these are my specialty. I can knock one out in about 4-5 hours, and that's taking my time, allowing for plenty of stuck/rusted/broken bolts/etc ... $300 is definitely fair though. Its a very involved job.

Daniel

After replaceing 24 valve seals on my friends 1993 Ford Probe GT, belive me....the timing belt replacement is a f---ing cake walk. Here are some tips.

- Don't get any forien substance on the timing belt (ex. grease, oil, dirt, etc.)

- Put the power steering belt on BEFORE you put the alternator belt on.

- Loosen the 17mm locknut bolts to the idler pulley for the alternator belt BEFORE you touch the 10mm adjuster bolt to adjust tension on belt. Same goes for the power steering idler pulley.

- It's a good idea to replace the auto tensioner & water pump while your down there. Then again, when i had 125,000km's on my car and when I did my timing belt...i didn't repalce the water pump. I now have 232,000km and my water pump is still workin.

- Even with the car in gear and the brakes on i had to use an impact gun to tighten the 21mm bolt that held the crankshaft pulley on. When i used a breaker bar it just turned. Oh and take out your spark plugs to make turning the crankshaft easier.