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Just curious what everyone uses in their cars. I usually run Castrol Syntec 5w-30, i have tried 5w-50 and see how many people have tried 0w oil and their experiences with it.

Vegetable Oil

[quote="papa roached"] 10w/30 valvoline

For a new engine.. I would start off immediately with a good Synthetic. Royal Purple.. Castrol.. Valvoline.. and Mobil all make excellent Synthetic oils. For a engine in used or unknown history type condition.. Kendall 10w-30w (which is what I am running in my car now.) The shop manual suggests 10w-30w for temps freezing & above. 5w-30w for below freezing.

Tunes67

I use w/e I can find, last week I used oil that my dad took outa my moms car cause she over filled lol. But I agree with Tunes, use dif oils for dif tempatures, 5w-30 can make the difference int he cold weather IMO.

5w-30 can also make a difference when you have noisy lifters too, thats mazda's "official" fix for it

Tunes67 wrote:For a new engine.. I would start off immediately with a good Synthetic. Royal Purple.. Castrol.. Valvoline.. and Mobil all make excellent Synthetic oils. For a engine in used or unknown history type condition.. Kendall 10w-30w (which is what I am running in my car now.) The shop manual suggests 10w-30w for temps freezing & above. 5w-30w for below freezing. Tunes67

I've always tried to use the best that I could find (not necessarily synthetic). I would always mimic what other Ducati club members would use for the high demands placed on racing/air cooled engines. For a long time I used Kendall (had a slight green colour to it) because it offered the best friction protection without foaming up. For the most part, most of the so called quality oils foamed up under the demands of Ducati engines, except Kendall, Mobil 1 or Agip. Can't find that particular Kendall any more so now I use Mobil 1 (preferably non-synthetic) and Agip is too hard to find. Found that "other" oils especially castrol was actually bad for the engine leaving residual heat and burn marks on the valve train. I'm not one for flash in the pan (here today gone tomorrow) type of oils. I've never scrimped on quality gas or oil and perhaps that's why I've never broken down anywhere or have had any failures or malfunctions (touch wood) and that I get incredidle longevity in the vehicles I own.

Sorry, what was the question again..........LOL..............................Mobil 1

Yeah Kendall isnt easy to find around here either.. I only know 2 stores that carry it (both napa stores) Its spendy.. but highly recommended by my machinist.. so thats what I get. The worst oil I have seen was Pennzoil.. leaves a tacky yellow varnish on the valve train and bottom end.. maybe thats what they call protection.. but in my mind I want my engine to stay as clean as possible.. thats what protects against friction.

Tunes67

someone here had told me to use thicker oil...5w 20 or somethign for high reving engines..also i noticed my engine does not consume any oil anymore after i did this change..is this bad o.0 ?

5w-20w would be a thinner oil.. the lower the weight the thinner the oil. Also.. straight weight oils have a more consistant viscosity, meaning that a straight 30w oil will remain thicker longer than a 10w-30w oil.. even though both will have the same viscosity at specified temperatures. This is what oil companies advertise. Real world.. a straight 30W will thicken further as temperature drops. Supposedly.. multiweight oils are inversely affected by temperature, meaning that as temperatures drop.. the thinner the oil becomes.. this is supposed to help make your engine easier to turn over at freezing and below temperatures. And at higher temps thicken up to give better friction protection.

Now as to why your car stopped burning oil after changing your oil.. likely it didnt stop burning oil.. its just cleaner oil and burns cleaner.. producing less evidence that it is indeed still burning. Also possible (but very unlikely) If your valve seals were leaking oil down the valves into the cylinders, the fresh oil may have treated your valve seals allowing them to soften a bit and start doing their job a bit better. Unfortunately if this happened.. it will be only temperary and eventually oil will start getting past these seals again. This is common in high mileage engines. Also.. leaky valve seals will eventually lead to burned exaust valves. Spendy head work will be required. Best to get that done before you have a valve burn.

Tunes67

i \m not sure the weight, will have to check tomorrow..when i was using 10 w 30 it would loose oil it loses i trough ther back some weird hose..havent figured it out yet. No white smoke on exhaust. I guess what i meant is i got thicker oil (the one thatsays for turbo engines) not sure which one.. and i replaced it whith the one its got..didnt do an oilchange just filled her up. Havent been loosing oil lately..again it does not burn oil, it frops it behind the engine trough some weird hose that is on top of where the manual; transmission linkage connects to tranny.

Castrol in the road car
Motul in the bikes
Mobil in the old race car...

mobil 1 hands down... just deciding about Lucas Oil Stabilizer still... so far i've had excellent results w/ the stuff, just not sure who to believe w/ all the skeptics and advocates of it... but anyway, mobil 1 synthetic ALWAYS

I use Mobile 1 in all my vehicles once they are broken in. If I am in a crunch I also use Quaker State.

It is generally recommended that synthetic oils are not to be used until after engine break-in, unless you want a looooooong break-in. Use dino oil for the first 5000 or so miles, change it frequently, then go to synthetic. I believe Corvettes and Vipers come from the factory with it, so apparently they dont agree, but I have read that in many places and thats what I did with my Mx. The inside of the valve cover, as of about a month ago, was SPOTLESS at 152k miles. It looked like it had just been machined.

As far as multiweights getting thinner as temperature drops, multiweights will be thinner than a straight weight at the same (lower) temperatures, but both will get thicker as the temp drops, just not at the same rate. 10w-30 is really 10 weight oil with polymers added to keep it from thinning out at high temps any thinner than a straight 30 weight would at the same temp. Problem is, the polymers break down over time due to heat and shearing therefore viscosity will fall as a result so multiweights do get thinner over time moreso than a straight oil will. At 35 below zero, 10w-30 will still flow, straight 30 you could probably wad it up and use it as a baseball. Theoretically, 10w-30 and straight 10 would be the same at that temp.

I use the cheapest oil I can find. 10w30, it its cheaper than $1/qt, we're good to go. hahahaaa