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I have a '92 MX-3 5-spd. 1.6L, that doesn't start.
So far I have retrieved code 2 (No NE Signal - distributor) using the jumper technique GND - Ten.

At first, my engine wasn't cranking and the code at the time was 23- RH heated oxygen sensor but after clearing the codes it never came up again (probably intermitent). I replaced the starter and now it cranks fine.

I've checked the for spark from the IGNITION COIL and the cables from the DISTRIBUTOR, and nothing. (Note: I did this holding the cable close to a ground - 10 mm away from it)

I've checked the ignition coil for primary, secondary, and insuluation resistance all are with in specifications.

I'm checking all grounds making sure they have a good clean contact.
All are ok so far. This winter I've had the problem of the car not starting when temperature is cold, but in the summer it started fine.

How can I check the distributor?
I've checked it's cap and it's in good shape, the previous owner had changed it and its' cables.
Any advice/assistance onthis is greatly appreiciated.

Note: I tried doing a search for "CODE 2" and nothing appeared relating to it.

I've had this problem before unless there is a problem at the connector for the crank angle sensor then the sensor is defective and the whole distributor will need to be replaced. The clue is no spark at the coil which means the ECU isn't seeing the engine turning.

I don't know about this code 23 becase this code doesn't exist for this engine. the closest code would be 17, 25 or 26 none of which would cause the engine not to crank.

Does the sensor come with the distributor or is it something seperate?
Also, how much does a distributor cost?

I have a 92 4cycl 1.6L distributor I can sell you. It's got a new cap and rotor on it too.
I checked the wrecker website http://www.car-parts.com and the cheapest distributor they had listed was $175

so give me a price if you want it

Thanks for the offer I am interested but I want to make sure that is the problem frist.

So how can I check that the distributor is the problem, independently.
For example, when I take it apart what are signs that it's no good or what electrical tests can I conduct that will tell me it's no good.

The FSM says:

The first check if you have Coil spark. Which is to hold the wire comming from the coil to the distributor abou 5mm-10mm away from one of the strut bolts on the tower. If there is no spark then disconnect the connector from the coil and check for volatage. If no voltage then you might have a bad ignitor and then you need to get your car somehow to the dealer to see if that is the problem because it is either that or the ECU, or a brakage in your wiring harness.

If there is spark then move on the the distriibutor. Take out one spark plug and wire and hold it again 5mm-10mm away from the ground point on the passenger side of the engine block. Then if there is no spark from there you pretty muhc need a new distributor.

Thanks BuGS for the info.
So far I have checked the coil and it has no spark. I'll be checking the ignitor next.

where do you go to find out information on the engine code numbers by doing the TEN-GRND method

Have a look at my web site under info.

Is the ignitor the thing that connects to the ignition coil?
I've checked it and reads 12 volts supply.

I want to check if it's is my ECU that is causing my car not to start.
How do I check it using a voltmeter(I don't want the dealer to do it $$$$, something I don't have right now)?

The 95 MX-3 Shop Manual for M/T has the voltage checks etc. for checking the ECU inputs and outputs but they don't apply to my '92 MX-3 M/T SOHC 1.6L engine.

Would it be possible to use an ECU from a PROTEGE M/T, since it too has SOHC engine with about the same engine size.

Please, help. Thanks in advance.

I checked the voltage going into the ignitor it read approx. 12 volts and the wiring harness is has no apparent breaks cuts etc.

I called a Mazda Dealer in Toronto (Sheppard and Morningside) they said it costs $89 to retrieve the code from ECU and check the ECU.
Also, called Japan Auto Parts they said it'll cost me $150 for the ECU alone.

Before, I take any steps ( pay some $$$$) can someone PLEASE tell me: how to check the ignitor independently using a Multimeter?

Well the FSM says that

No. 2 code is actually Crank Angle Sensor Ne2 Signal. 1. check it see if there is a poor connection. If yes fix or repair it. 2.Next Disconnect connector from ECU; Is resistance of connection 3F (L/Y) and 3H (L/G) Terminal Ok? (resistence should be 0.95-1.25KΩ). If there isn't one proceed to step 4. 3. Is there continuity of connector between ground and 3F or ground and 3H terminal? ( at harness side) If yes check for short circuit in wiring from crank angle sensor to 3F or 3H terminal. If Not Replace ECU (EEK). 4. Is resistence of crank angle sensor ok?(resistence should be 0.95-1.25KΩ) If yes Check for open circuit in wiring from WCU to Crank Angle Sensor.


And for the ignitor:

Ignitor Voltage should be BELOW 1.0V when ingnition is on at idle. And to test the Ignitor you need the SST (igniter checker). So that would need to be done by the dealer. Although, Have you made sure the main fuse, is good? That may be the problem also, or even the ignition switch.

I have been looking through the FSM for the last hour for ya. Hopefully this will help. I wish my scanner worked.. Stupid XP.

I have a M/T MX-3. The info above does it apply to M/T because the wiring diagram doesn't have that points 3F and 3H for ECU.

NVM that is for the V6 i think....

OK:

Does Terminal Wire (W) between Distributor and ECU terminal (MTX 2E0 (ATX 2A) have continuity? -Yes then go to next step, No Reair or replace

Does ECU terminal (MTX 2E) or (ATX 2A) have good volatage? approx 0v or 5v with igniton on... If no replace ECU, if Yes go to next step

Does approx 0V or approx 5v exist at distrbutor wire (W)? Yes Replace Distrbutor. No Next step

Does approx 5V exist at ecu terminal (MTX 2E) or (ATX 2A) (with distributor connector disconnected)? Yes: look for short dircuit in wiring from distrbutor to ECU. No Replace ECU.