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Yet another of my stupid posts (sorry)
Posted: February 8th, 2005, 2:13 am
by hgallegos915
Ok..set the tps..feels better. I moved it up until the point it had continuity (dunno if i did it right) now my cart feels better i can reach 45 mph in second gear flooring it.. BUT ok I DID notice... at high speeds .lets say 80.. if i have thje pedal floored it wont go ver 80..it will go over if i let go of the accelerator a bit..but as soon as i floor it it wont go..do I make sense? o.0 so i take it my tps is still miss adjusted? I followed the manual but well my fan wont turn on as i turn it on with the ign in the "on" position. ALso I could not read the voltage because i dont have the adapter. I DID notice more speed increase at low speeds lets say 0-60. Any ideas? also well is there any specific way to adjust tps?
Posted: February 8th, 2005, 12:24 pm
by XxantwawnxX
maye ur cat is clogged. My car would not go over 80.....then after while it would not go over 50....then 30.....then 25....then 5. My cat was clogged : P
Posted: February 8th, 2005, 5:05 pm
by jschrauwen
The TPS Manual Adjustment Procedure.
93-97 Probe GT.
Brought to you by RSP MotorSports.
Caution:
When following these instructions and using the images as GUIDELINES make sure you jumper only the stated pinouts. Regardless of actual location in your diagnosis box. Consult your car specific model year for exact pinout locations.
The engine must be at normal operating temperature before performing this procedure!
(OBD and OBDII diagnosis box may differ in pinout location.)
To many times I here of Probe owners who have idle quality issues. This could be one or more of several sensors/devices improperly set or malfunctioning. The following procedure may or may not resolve this issue but in the least it is a Root Cause Analysis procedure that can eliminate the TPS as a cause.
The TPS, located at the front of the Throttle Body (TB), is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). This sensor relays throttle position specific information to the ECU to keep the motor running properly throughout the rpm range.
Tools Required - Philips head screw driver, ¼” metric socket set, Jumper wire, 3-6” long capable of handling a 12v circuit max.
Lets start the adjustment.
Turn engine off
Loosen the two (2) screws that hold the TPS in place but keep them snug enough to manipulate the TPS so it will not rotate from its position.
Turn Idle Air Screw in until fully closed, no pressure. (Philips head screw driver)
Turn Idle Air Screw open 3 full turns, be exact.
Adjust Throttle position screw to minimum contact on throttle linkage, maybe .010-.015” contact at most. See note A-A and B-B in alpha order within image.
Insert jumper to TEN/Grnd pin outs on diagnostic box.
Start engine (it may stall, if so, adjust Idle Air Screw open 1 more full turn. restart engine if necessary
Adjust TPS, rotate CW/CCW until the driver side fan comes on. If the fan is already on rotate until the fan is off. Go through this step a few times, finding the exact point the fan turns on and off.
Adjust Idle Air Screw until idle is about 350-400rpms (turn closed(CW)/open(CCW) until idle is as stated, should be in the CW rotation)
Tighten screws for the TPS. (See car manual for torque specs)
Turn off engine
Remove jumper wire from diagnostic pin outs
Remove NEGATIVE battery cable for a minimum 60 seconds, depressing brake pedal for 10 seconds minimum is helpful.
Reconnect NEGATIVE battery cable
Restart engine
Idle should now be at 650-700rpms, if not continue below.
Now we will adjust the idle.
Before continuing. Make sure the TB butterfly is adjusted as described above. Manually adjust it to the closed position if necessary then readjust as described above. If readjustment is needed, restart the entire procedure.
To adjust the idle use the Idle Air Screw located at the top back of the TB.
Turn the screw CW/CCW to increase or decrease idle rpm. Set the idle so it reads about 650-700rpm on your tach.
Hope this helps
Posted: February 9th, 2005, 2:48 am
by hgallegos915
ok i shall try this and i hope it works.. i really appreciate it... as in for the cat.. what happens if i remove it? (i dont have to worry about emissions) will i lose power? I already have a freeflow muffler. My car could reach 90 mph wothj nop problem.. then 80 today it would go to 75 with alot of effort and the rpms would not climb.. I did mess with the tps ( used the online manual) Tomorrow i reset it.
Posted: February 9th, 2005, 9:10 am
by lakersfan1
If your cat is clogged, jut buy a replacement hi-flow cat. They're only $60 on eBay. Resonated test pipes cost almost as much anyways.
Posted: February 9th, 2005, 1:09 pm
by TsiMiata
Did you jumper the ten+gnd pins when setting the tps?
Posted: February 9th, 2005, 3:00 pm
by hgallegos915
ok I did the procedure, i noticed the screw thats under the linkage was open to much, closed it to have throttle body fully clused and adjusted according to manual. OK my idle screw was not set right..I had no idea this was the idle screw...ok adjusted it as manual states... closed and open 3 full turns. Then adjusted idle to 700 rpm . I did disconnect the battery and tapped the breaks as it states. restarted and i noticed the vris solenoid opens differently now. Hopefully this will solve my problem. I will be able to test today after work. As far as test pipe..i can get one profesionally madd for around 20 dlls.. but my question was id i will loose power since i already have a feree flow muffler. Because i think also the cat converter may be an issue. any more input? by the way thanks guys you all have been great!
Posted: February 11th, 2005, 2:00 am
by hgallegos915
up.. remove or replacde kat converter with an oem one?
Posted: February 11th, 2005, 2:22 am
by Invisible
Well seeing as not having a cat is illegal in most places, id vote replacing it? Why are you replacing it btw? are you hoping this is your problem or is it clogged ? or?
Posted: February 12th, 2005, 4:24 pm
by hgallegos915
Well as far as mi idling issues its been solved..but ive always wondered if this cat is clogged .hte car is about to reach 200 k miles and its on the original cat...basically...would I lose power if i remove kat converter?? I already got a free flow muffler.
Posted: February 12th, 2005, 4:44 pm
by jschrauwen
hgallegos915 wrote:Well as far as mi idling issues its been solved..but ive always wondered if this cat is clogged .hte car is about to reach 200 k miles and its on the original cat...basically...would I lose power if i remove kat converter?? I already got a free flow muffler.
I believe Invisible is correct, no cat = illegal. If vehicle has been kept in a reasonable state of tune, unless the cat rusts away it should last moooocho years. I'm still running my original (270,000km) that was integrated into my new exhaust system.....which includes MS headers and magnaflow muffler.
Posted: February 14th, 2005, 3:19 am
by hgallegos915
ok today I wa reminded why i think my kat converter may be bad... it wont go ovwer 90 mph ..if it does it struggles too much. Ecu codes are clear... tps was adjusted.. new cap rotor and plugs and wires..what else can it be? I used to go at least 105 easy. Can it be tires? I had 205 55 r 15 now i got 205 55 r 15.
Posted: February 14th, 2005, 6:55 am
by IanL
hgallegos915 wrote: Can it be tires? I had 205 55 r 15 now i got 205 55 r 15.
So what's new
Posted: February 14th, 2005, 1:35 pm
by hgallegos915
im clueless...as whats wrong... but well thanks to you guys I guess im narrowing it down to the oxygen sensors and kat coverter. I know its not the clutch for sure, its not the tps. m aiming toward a free flow kat thats legal.. ill get the kat first..if its not that then oxygen sensors ( really hoping its not oxygen sensors since they are an arm and a leg argh )
Posted: February 19th, 2005, 5:24 pm
by hgallegos915
I figured its my kat converter...about 3 weeks ago I installed a perf muffler...it sounded loud aand nice..now it sounds stock... not loud at all..accel is hoprrible...tomorrow I will have the kat "deleted" then ill find a free flow somewhere.