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Hello,
I had a question regarding the EGR valve on my 93 GS. A few years back I did a KL-03 swap on my 92 GS (*RIP* now my PaRtS bin) and had constant trouble with the EGR I wound up replacing it with a new EGR and all was well for a little while, when the codes came up again a friend suggested that I completely remove the little *jerk*, about two days later the car was destroyed by someone who was going WAY too fast for road conditions. So now I have done a KL-03 swap on my 93 and I wanted to know if I remove the EGR, what if any modifications would have to be done to the vac solenoids and the wiring harness (if any) to prevent any CEL codes from popping up. Before anyone replys with the emissions argument HAH! I dont have no stinking emissions test where I live (in the sticks west of St. Louis Mo.) just good old safety inspection (cough,cough, joke!, cough, cough). just lucky for me I dont live two miles closer to the city or I would be in one of the most strict "clean air" areas in the state.
If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears...er eyes and thanks in advance.
~John

i would leave it in becuase if not unmetered air will enter teh hole where it used to be, if you hook it all up right it will work and not throw a code, mine threw codes after my swap, turns out i had some vac lines wrong, they were hooked to teh wrong ends of the solinoid

I already have it functioning properly as it stands, however after reading some posts on here about the different headers and the knock offs, quite a few people have mentioned that one of the companys doesnt come with the pipe to the EGR, but does have a bung, I am just wanting to know what I would need to do to prevent the unmetered air flow, besides just "plugging" up the EGRs current inlets/outlets. I hate working with vac systems so when I replace my phenos and intake I plan on doing a "full solinoid relocation program" to simplify troubleshooting on the vac. system. I have fritzed around too many times with the exact same problems in the past, this is the third 2.5 swap I have done and each time is at just a long enough interval to allow what I need to know to casually slip my memory.

why not just leave it all in there without the pipe going to it and get a pipe plug that fits it and call it good, all the ECU cares about is it being there, not if gas is flowing through it

Yes I could do that but I wanted to remove anything that is not serving a function plugging the pipe is the easy part, I am not trying to be difficult with this but I just want to know how to remove the wiring (not permanent) and vac/ vac solinoids without major or annoying complications

If its the electronic part of it you are worried about "you talked about removing the solenoids and so on" Get a decent multimeter and measure the resistance of the UNPLUGGED solenoids...

replace solenoid with a resistor that has the same value as the solenoids coil had, and the ECU wont know its missing and nothing will change in the currents while operating..