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Getting ready to do the tokico, Eibach changeover. Do I need an adjustable camber kit or can I just go with the Mazda Camber bolts?

Where do you get "Mazda camber bolts"? From the dealer?<p>There is no "camber kit" (like you'll find for Civics, etc.) for the MX-3, just the bolts. Your only decision is how many to use per strut (just top or top and bottom) and whether to just do front or do both front and rear.

someone else make these camber bolts. That company was like 30 mins away from Philly I believe. Me and my brother got them for like rally cheap. Try searching in suspension forum you should be able to fine their phone number and website. And that is a must if you are upgrading your suspension

oh, I went with 1 bolt per corner. I have H&R's and Tokico struts. Without the bolts my tires were wearing out FAST.

Don, go to Lordco and get them from there. That's where I got mine and they were about $110 with taxes.<p>~A

Can somebody explain the principles of these camber bolts? I'm doing eibach springs in about a week and a half and would like some information. $110 seems a little steep for bolts!!!<p>cheers,
rob

basically the camber bolts change the angle of the rim/tire. it makes the wheel vertical. the problem with lowering your car is that it gives it too much negative camber. the tires butterfly out like an old VW Bug, and it eats up the inside part of the tires. i know somebody is going to chime in with the proper explanation of it.

Found these on Ebay. Are these the bolts you are talking about?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2917865708&category=20947<p>Marc

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MarcJ:
Found these on Ebay. Are these the bolts you are talking about?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2917865708&category=20947<p>Marc<hr></blockquote>
Yes, those are they.

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by don walker:
Getting ready to do the tokico, Eibach changeover. Do I need an adjustable camber kit or can I just go with the Mazda Camber bolts?<hr></blockquote><p>You don't need camber bolts for the Eibach's. The camber will still be in spec.<p> <blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Vlad:
oh, I went with 1 bolt per corner. I have H&R's and Tokico struts. Without the bolts my tires were wearing out FAST.<hr></blockquote><p>Did you align the car after you dropped the car?The TOE was more likely the cause of your tire wear. It was toed out(negative toe) so it wore on the inside edge of the tires. It's a misconception to think that camber was the cause.<p>Guys, rotating the strut mount to the opposite side of the factory's will cure most of the "negative camber". Your biggest concern with tire wear will come from TOE. Whenever you lower the car, it WILL change. It is reccomended that you align it after changing ride height.

i just had some questions. how do you figure toe would cause wear on the inner part of a tire? wouldnt toe cause feathering of the tires becouse the tires are rotating? have you ever seen a honda lowered so low that the front wheels look like they buckle? thats what causes it.

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by insomniac:
i just had some questions. how do you figure toe would cause wear on the inner part of a tire? wouldnt toe cause feathering of the tires becouse the tires are rotating? have you ever seen a honda lowered so low that the front wheels look like they buckle? thats what causes it.<hr></blockquote><p> No.. when the tire's are toed out, they dragg across the road instead of tracking straight ahead. In otherwords, you may be steering straight, but the tires are not, they're pointing away from the car. On many cars, a half degree out on toe will show more wear on the inside edge. In extreme cases where the toe is over 2 degrees out, the tires WILL feather from side to side. I've seen this on a couple of occasions. You've probably never seen this type of feathering. Most feathered tires are caused by lack of rotation and overloaded tires (too low of air pressure). You'll feel this on both edges of the tire.<p> Yes, I've seen and work on many Hondas that are lowered, but in most cases with them, it's the camber that wear's out their tires. A Hondas suspension is no where near an Mx-3's. They have an SLA (short arm long arm) suspension. When Hondas are lowered, the geometery of there suspension allows the wheels to camber negative more so than the Mx-3's. That's why there are "Camber Kits" for Hondas.

dont they have a good camber kit on corksport that mounts at the top of the strut tower for $200?

i was told once that you had to give the front tires half a degree or a lil less of toe for the crown on the road. i always thought most hondas where mcpherson struts not SLA (sybian liberation army) j/k.

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by marshmallow15:
dont they have a good camber kit on corksport that mounts at the top of the strut tower for $200?<hr></blockquote><p>These are technically not called kits, they replace the strut mount for added adjustability to the caster and camber. The Ground Control and Cusco raise the height about 10mm. They're also supposed to be used in conjunction with a coilover setup so you'll be able to get the most out of them. They are both good products in my mind.<p> <blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by insomniac:
i was told once that you had to give the front tires half a degree or a lil less of toe for the crown on the road. i always thought most hondas where mcpherson struts not SLA (sybian liberation army) j/k.<hr></blockquote><p>The crown of the road has more to do with the caster. Auto manufacturers will give less caster on the left side to compensate for the crown of the road (Ford is a good example on it's trucks).
The reason, caster causes the vehicle to pull to the least positive caster setting. Toe on the other hand needs to be zeroed out, or the wheels pointing straight.