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ok suspension really isnt my thing so my question is to lower your car what will you need ?<BR>im thinking lowering springs and struts right ? <BR>or is there something else? I feel so dumb asking this lol

tools, spring compressor and springs. Struts are optional. <BR>Im using my stock struts, and suspension techniques springs.<P>Rent a spring compressor from Autozone, or a local place, remove your tire. Compress the spring. Remove the strut. Take off the old spring (be careful!!!!) compress the new one, put the stut cap on... put it on how u took it off. <P>Really easy, but dangerous.<p>[ November 21, 2002: Message edited by: Custommx3 ]

I'll be venturing on this too in a few weeks. I'll be using stock struts with eibach pro springs (thanks hank

You don't need air tools, but a good tourqe wrench & some spray lubricant is very usefull. Anotherthing you'll probably want is camber bolts.<P>As for compressing the springs being easy, it depends on wht kind of spring compresser you get. With the ones I had it was difficult to compress the spring enough. If you can get one like in the shop manual, It'll help a lot. Putting on lowering springs is much easier than taking stock ones off.<P>Good luck though.

those cheap spring compressors on ebay or that look like clamps are very dangerous. my friend already cut his arm because the spring swiveled loose somehow. if you rent a compressor, get the floor type or the one that bolts to a wall.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Custommx3:<BR><STRONG>Im using my stock struts, and suspension techniques springs.<BR></STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>doesnt the sus. tech. springs lower the car 1-1.3" on a 4cyl? but on your site it says that its lowered 2"??

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>tools, spring compressor and springs. Struts are optional. <BR>Im using my stock struts, and suspension techniques springs. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Ok thanks for the info guys, Im looking to buy suspension tech springs in the srping when I put my rims on, so I can use the stock struts but will that effect the ride of the car will it be stiffer ?<BR>And I dont think im going to be doing this myself as Ive looked into it some more and it seems kinda tricky not to mention dangerous lol

I'm having the same problem. I can't decide what spring to go with, I can get suspension tech. springs for a good price (wholesale) but I want to know how others feel about them before I buy, and how much will they lower the car? they say 1.3"

others say it lowers 1"....i want these springs as well but no one was able to tell me what the actual drop is.

I don't know if anyone told you this but anything lower than 1.5 inches on the front end will require a camber kit for the front(I'm guessing since the MX is somewhat lightweight) The back end can probably take 1.75 or so.<P>Despite what people say you do not "need" one. Just be prepared to go through tires that have 75% tread on the outside and 10% on the inside <P>Be glad you aren't an AW11 MR-2. When they get lowered they have to fight their already notrious snap understeer. It tore my friend's poor 86 apart. But hey, I'll be getting it to work on in January!

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by marshmallow15:<BR><STRONG><P>doesnt the sus. tech. springs lower the car 1-1.3" on a 4cyl? but on your site it says that its lowered 2"??</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Its because this set has been on 3 different MX's, a 4cl, a v6, and now another 4cl. The springs have settled. <P>I as well had to get a camber kit.

yep, camber kit is a must.<BR>Get those camber bolts they are cheap

for my setup i got lowering springs (jamex 2in drop), new struts (kyb-gr2), i also pput in strut bars front and rear and made my own camber bolts by going to the hard ware store and geting grade 8 bolts that were a bit smaller in size.(cost like $1 each).<BR>in nj u cant rent spring compressors anymore bc of lawsuits so what i did was use a bib C-clamp to lighten the tension a bit and then face the top of the strut away from u and reach forward with a wrench and slowly start loosening the top nut. do this with to people and its much easier. also dont stane in front of the strut or have anything in front of it while loosening the nut because the top is gonna shoot off about 5-10ft.<BR>Dan

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rikymaru:<BR><STRONG>I don't know if anyone told you this but anything lower than 1.5 inches on the front end will require a camber kit for the front(I'm guessing since the MX is somewhat lightweight) The back end can probably take 1.75 or so.<P>Despite what people say you do not "need" one. Just be prepared to go through tires that have 75% tread on the outside and 10% on the inside <P>Be glad you aren't an AW11 MR-2. When they get lowered they have to fight their already notrious snap understeer. It tore my friend's poor 86 apart. But hey, I'll be getting it to work on in January!</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P><BR>Is this true?? well damn it all, looks like its not gonna be as easy of an install as i thought... or is it easy? i really dont want tires with no tread on one part and decent tread on the rest lol. If its too difficult/expensive i think i migh have to sell the intrax's :S. good to know tho.

I also have the suspension techniques springs on stock struts. Yes, it does ride stiffer. I never took measurements on how much it was lowered, but it is more noticeable now (after about a year of settling) than it was when I first installed them. I had no prior experience with anything suspension related, but the swap went pretty smoothly and only took me 3-4 hrs. I bought spring compressors from Autozone instead of renting them, 'cause they were reasonably inexpensive and I like to have tools on-hand in case I ever need them again. The rear springs don't even need to be compressed - when the strut is off the car, the spring is fully extended.<BR>Ride height perfectly suits my tastes - not "slammed", but closes up the gap between tire and fender just right (17" rims with 40 series tires - for "proper" upsizing (Diameter is same as stock)).