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How the hell do you get a turbo off of a dodge or crysler. I was at the junkyard going at a shadow but the car had no tires so I couldn't get underneath. Is there any way to get one from the top or do I need to just flip the car over?

Theirs two ways,
One, remove the head.
Two, crawl underneath.

Remove all hoses and vac lines.Theirs 4 lines comming off the turbo (2oil, 2 water), remove them at their easiest location. Remove the right (passanger side) drive shaft (i just remove the shock attachment and jumped on the hub untill it popped out). Theirs a bracket from the turbo to the block, you can now remove the bolt on the block. Remove the exhast pipe to the turbo (I hacked saw it off at 4" to have the pipe addapter, but it only takes a 1/2" and has a nut on back). Now the hard part, you need a sturdy 15mm wrench w/ good leverage, theirs 4 bolt that are a b!t(h to get off on the turbo to the manifold (I do beleave its easier to remove the waist gate actulater first.)
Now presto! You have a Mitsubishi TE04H Turbocharger.

I know this becuse I just pulled on off of a Shelby Z with the 2.5L, its almost exactly the same as the 2.2L turbo Shadow

just a little FYI,

You'll likely have to rebuild it so......

The TE04H has two pipes that come out of the turbo (water lines) that are copper and brake easy. They brake at the threading point so you have to use a tap & dia set to remove, but the housing is weak and will crack 50% of the time you have to do that. Best ting to do is hack saw the steel lines off the copper junctions. then gently use a large wrench ( or vise-grips at the lowest possible gripping point) to remove the pipes. If you try to remove the steel lines while the pipes are attached they (the copper pipes) will brake at the threading point.

thanks for the great tips. Theres a dodge caravan at my local yard with a T4 that I wanted to get. Theres not really anyway to get underneath so I guess I'll have to take the head off.

Is the TE04H a good combo with the KLDE? Its going to be a winter project for me and that turbo seemed like the best fit for the car. 2.5L to 2.5L, pretty new and dirt cheap. Whats the wastegate like on it? I only want to run 5-6 psi of boost so it should be able to handle it right?

It might be too small for a 2.5V6 ZE aplication, but it does come off a 2.5 I4 so it might be just fine, but it has a low RPM spool.

I just read on a site that the waist gate is atually set for 5.5PSI. you can add a www.boostcontroller.com (or $5 homedepo) boost control to open at a latter PSI range.

Wayy to small for a good 2.5. The 2.2s turbos only made 140hp factory... WITH turbo. The head and manifold design is simply awful for making big hp numbers.

I used the Mitsu on my 1.3DOHC (4 cyl) Swift GTi, made 193whp (160some wtorque). Those turbos aren't good for much more than 225hp or so. I'd look at some bigger options... even a 14b from a Talon will be too small, but it is still a better choice and good for 300hpish.

Actually, its the chrysler/DSM 2.2L engine design that make it lack power (its true econobox power), the turbo is fine, and is capible of 500 FWHP. Check out what some of the guys do to the Shebly-Zs (basicly a Daytona, 2.5L I4, TEO4H + AM Boost controller) can do. The 2.5L gets alot more power out of that turbo than the 2.2L (but then again the 2.5L was made with boosting in mind)

the Mitsu TE04h turbo will not push anywhere near 500whp. Go look at guys like Gary donavon and thedodgegarage and check out how much they love the little turbo.