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I'm putting a turbo on my RS and I know we can only run about about 5 psi, but I want the loudest bov possible, does anyone have any suggestions? basically like the eclipse in 'f&f'.<P>Thanks for the help

You can run alot more than 5psi on a B6 1.6L. Like, 15psi+. <P>I know turbo XS has some BOV's in the 100db+ range.

turbo xs rfl

With proper fuel and timing, 15psi is easy. Some of the GTX guys run 18psi all day. Turbo miatae run 12psi on FM kits with 220-240whp. I was running 12-15psi on my motor till my lean out condition.<P>TurboXS is crazy loud. HKS and Greddy are loud as well.

w/o too much reference to f&f, what type of bov did they use? i was at the shop yesterday when they were tuning an aem ecu on a rx7...sounded the same. i didn't get a chance to ask them what it was though. i have a blitz super sound dual drive. it's pretty loud. but i've been told the turbo xs rfl is is just that...really freakin' loud.

I am going with the turbo xs type that works with the mass airflow...type H? I dont remember..anyone have feedback?

thanks for all the feedback everyone, I think i'll go with the turbo XS rfl type H.<P><A HREF="http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/BOV.html" TARGET=_blank>BOV feedback information</A><P>With out doing anything but; larger fuel pump, ignition/coil, and a fuel pressure regulator. <P>What is needed to run 15 psi?<P>cause I was under the impression that 5 psi was all the stock engine could handle. do I need to beef up the 1.6 alot to handle 15 psi, like boostedmx did?<p>[ October 19, 2002: Message edited by: mx3vs ]

You will need an upgraded ignition system, fuel pump, fuel computer of some sort, of course a turbo system . Since you have the 9.4:1CR, I would suggest 10psi for starters. Get an EGT gauge installed before you start going higher. At full boost, EGTs should be in the 1525-1650 zone, any higher and you go boom. You may want an ignition timing control, the B6 thrives on 14' timing but not under full boost.

Thanks maldo, What kind of fuel computer would you suggest?<p>[ October 19, 2002: Message edited by: mx3vs ]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mx3vs:<BR><STRONG>Thanks maldo, What kind of fuel computer would you suggest?<P>[ October 19, 2002: Message edited by: mx3vs ]</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P><BR>IIRC, Chris uses a Apex'I SAFC. I'm liking the new AEM EMS unit, though that's a whole different ballgame...

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mx3vs:<BR><STRONG>Thanks maldo, What kind of fuel computer would you suggest?<P>[ October 19, 2002: Message edited by: mx3vs ]</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>haltech e6k

i thought the c/r on a 1.6 dohc 4 was 9 to 1. please let me know if im wrong.and the hks bov is louder than the blitz and greddy. i want to hear this rfl bov though.

OK, I don't post much on this board, but I've been "researching" this for a long time, and I could be wrong, but I think whoever was gonna try 10 or 15 psi on a stock b6 should read this first. A stock b6t or bpt or bpd can run 16 psi as far as engine internals are concerned. a b6e (DOHC or SOHC) cannot run 10 psi. The b6e has 9:1 cr and the b6t, bpt, bpd, has an 8:1 cr. The 8:1 prevents detonation and actually lowers power output. If you could make (and people do) a 9:1 or 9.5:1 or even 10+:1 cr with a turbo you would make insane power. However the stock engine internals (especially the connecting rods) will break under this power. There are 2 ways to break an engine. Mistuning normally wears the engine slowly, melting plugs, fouling components, cokeing turbos. Sometimes (detonation, poor oil flow - seizure) you can quickly destroy an engine this way. Tuning brings the engine out of "mistune" and produces power. However, you can't tune an engine so well that you can make 400 hp on stock internals. The other way to break an engine is too much power production. High heat in the cylinders (burning more fuel), excess force on connecting rods/crank (from making more torque or increasing rpms), or busting valvetrain (high rpms). You can tune to get back wasted power (lighter wheels, lighter flywheel, lighter connecting rods), or to make power (any way to get more fuel and air at the right ratio into the engine and burn it at the right time -intakes, exhaust, turbo, supercharger, N2O, timing, FMUs, spark, really all the neat stuff) Anyway you do this you will make all of the heat and force (good for hp, but hard on internals). Eventually all this heat and force will melt/brake the engine. Running 16 psi on 9:1 cr with stock b6e falls into this catagory. For the short time it works you will make loads of power (if you could even tune it before it brakes). But you will fry that b6e quick, probably before it gets out of the garage. I would bet the conneting rods go first.<P>I should add that "can", "cannot" and all the "brake/fry/bust/etc" are my opinion and what I have gathered from reading GTX on yahoo. I have not actually done this (but hope to soon, with bpt). And if somebody has and I am wrong (no second hand s---, mike so and so has a b6e with 25 psi of boost ... if you have done it) let me know because I am really interested because like I said, i'm working on getting that bpt from cs.

Little bit of misinformation there. The B6T runs 7.8:1CR and can handle well over 18psi. The rods are even stronger and have seen 25psi w/o problems. The motor itself is capable of 400hp quite easily. The limitation of the B6T when used in the GTX is the ecu. The ecu can only provide enough fuel for 15psi, even with the benefit of the vaccum advance disty. With a reprogrammed eprom the motor is able to handle much more. Boost cut also kicks in before 16psi so that is another limit. Stock fueling requires an upgrade to the fc3s pump in order to reach the 16psi+ goal.<P>I could be wrong about the 9:1 CR for the B6ZE in the MX-3, would have to check my notes.<P>The B6e rods are too skinny to handle high boost, you are right in this regard. If you get the chance to compare the GTX rod to the B6e rod you will see the big difference.<P> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR> What kind of fuel computer would you suggest? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Like David said, I am using the S-AFC but its capabilities are limited. I am purchasing a MAP sensor shortly to expand it ability on the OBD-I ecu. Read my post on its limitations for more info. If I had the money, I would love to go to a TEC-III, but $2800USD with injectors is just not reasonable at this time. The new Haltec E11 comes out soon and looks very impressive with much more in way of controls compared to the E6K for a slightly inflated cost compared to the E6K. The AEM looks good on paper but I have heard of several problems with it during its infancy. A few of the miata guys have tried it but still seem to flock to the TEC. From what I have heard, the problems with the programing have been rectified. Support wise, there is much more out there for the TEC or E6K. Shiv has developed many specific maps for the TEC, MarkP has a few for the Haltec. Gains with both are considerable when compared to using a standard piggy or rough fmu.

also, Ric's miata with 9.5:1 compression STOCK pistons put down 397whp. Compression isnt the big factor here.