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Has anyone put a turbo on a kl-03 or kl-ze and how much money and horse would it produce?<BR>and how much psi of boost could ya run without upgrading any parts on both enigne?<BR>I have a Kl-ze and want to turbo it

theres lot's of turob kl-08's (tkt makes a kit for it)<BR>but i don't know if theres many turbo klez<BR>it's prob better to turbo the kl08 cause of the commpression ratio but i'm don't know much bout turbos

how much boost you want to run all depends on how "on the edge" you want to run the car. With proper tuning with a stand alone, you could probably run 3-5 more psi than just a turbo with piggy back controls. And hp gains are all from tuning, so there is no telling. Money wise, its gonna cost whatever the kit of the Probe engine + stand alone, and lots of dyno tuning.

im doing a turbo for my KL03 for the last year.....we dont have any kits for it per se....TKT has been rated poorly amongst our members, and there is this new LudeSpeed kit....when PT is back up yall can look into the ludespeed kit by turbotom.....anyways, it will probably run at least 4-5000 for all the parts and labor if u have someone else do it for u......HP gain is really high for some who have done it already, im gonna go for about 250whp when all said and done.....

oh yea one more thing, i dont really know of anyone doing FI on a ZE cuz of the higher compression....and the cams on the ZE are more agressive, not the best things for a turbo

THis is the second time that I have read that more aggressive cams are not good for FI???<P>What is the premise behind this?? I would think that having the valve open longer and wider would be good for NA, FI, and N20?? More air is more air??

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by joshrea:<BR><STRONG>THis is the second time that I have read that more aggressive cams are not good for FI???<P>What is the premise behind this?? I would think that having the valve open longer and wider would be good for NA, FI, and N20?? More air is more air??</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>More overlap is bad. When you increase duration, you generally increase overlap as well, unless you can adjust the cam timing out. This would create a huge amount of reversion with a turbo hanging off of the block, which would be bad. So around stock duration and overlap with more lift is a good idea.<P>that help?

The claims that an aggressive cam should not be used on a turbo application is unfounded. It does have some merit though...Here is why: I have the B6T, at some point I am swapping to the HKS or TODA cams. If you look at the specs for most of the cams available for the miata they all have around a 8-9mm lift. This really isn't going to do you much good on a turbo motor. It will help, but not as much as one would like. Take a look at TODA's specs, these are designed to make power. There you have 272 to 304 cams, these are huge, but a 272 cam with only 9mm of lift isn't going to be as good as the one with 10.3mm of lift. The cams have to be matched to the application that they are destined for. Go to Road-Race Engineering's web site and take a look at the dyno sheet for the 4G63 with 272 Web cams, the car gained over 30hp at the peak! With a high profile cam you will get the loud muscle car idle but that is a sweet sound.

maldo, have you taken a look at corksport's cams? if so, how do they compare to toda?

another question if I got a turbo and ran 5 psi boost or if anyone has a turbo on a mx-3 is there hook up problems on the street?

cause i dont wanna spend the money not be able to put it to the pavement <BR>I will put in <BR>clutch master stage 3<BR>lowered suspension with turbo

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Smokin mx-3:<BR><STRONG>another question if I got a turbo and ran 5 psi boost or if anyone has a turbo on a mx-3 is there hook up problems on the street?</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Any small FWD car putting out over 200hp is going to have major hookup problems.<P>At 5psi on a 1.8L you would be at about 180hp. On a 2.5L, you're over 200hp...<P>Just the KLZE swap alone without boost will spin through 1st and almost all of 2nd even with sticky tires.<P>For the record, my 0-60mph times before and after turbo (with the KLZE 2.5L) weren't much different. It's the 60-100mph where you really see the difference.

Hey mx3gsr, <BR>What kind of turbo you got on your KL_ZE? Where did you get it at? also, how much HP does it produce?

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by maldo:<BR><STRONG>The claims that an aggressive cam should not be used on a turbo application is unfounded. It does have some merit though...Here is why: I have the B6T, at some point I am swapping to the HKS or TODA cams. If you look at the specs for most of the cams available for the miata they all have around a 8-9mm lift. This really isn't going to do you much good on a turbo motor. It will help, but not as much as one would like. Take a look at TODA's specs, these are designed to make power. There you have 272 to 304 cams, these are huge, but a 272 cam with only 9mm of lift isn't going to be as good as the one with 10.3mm of lift. The cams have to be matched to the application that they are destined for. Go to Road-Race Engineering's web site and take a look at the dyno sheet for the 4G63 with 272 Web cams, the car gained over 30hp at the peak! With a high profile cam you will get the loud muscle car idle but that is a sweet sound.</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>It is not unfounded. The cams built for the 4G63 are all "turbo" cams. None of the cams that Toda sells are for turbocharged motors. They are all high-end street and race NA applications. Overlap is bad for a turbo motor because you dont want both valves open at the same time, if your pressurizing the intake charge, cuz it will simply try to neutralize the pressure difference by flowing right out the exhaust port. It takes a lot of tuning to get cams to work well with a turbo car, but the basic rule of thumb is as much lift as possible with minimal overlap. And with a stock valvetrain, that is the simple way to get valvefloat, cuz your valves are gonna have to have huge ramp up speeds if you want to get it all that aggresive.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by N/A:<BR><STRONG>Hey mx3gsr, <BR>What kind of turbo you got on your KL_ZE? Where did you get it at? also, how much HP does it produce?</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>The turbo kit is custom, I welded it up myself from scratch, but the turbocharger itself is a Mitsubishi 16G, a common upgrade for Talon/Eclipse owners. They cost about $600-900 new, less for a used one.