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Guys,

Since I got my engine swapped... from a 1.8 to a KL03 (KLDE)... I have had this same problem.. When I start, the engine boggs for like 10 -25 seconds before I can drive it.. If I even try stepping on the gas, it shuts off and doesn't even do anything. Now.. also.. I have my stock 1.8 intake manifold, stock TB, stock ecu, stock VAF.

QUESTION BEING:

If I were to keep my 1.8 ecu, and get a 2.5 1994 probe GT VAF will this correct the problem? Also I dont think I have nearly as much power as I should, It's hard to peal out in first without dropping the clutch, I can't peel in second no matter what, even if im going slow in first, and DROP foot on the gas in second, it does nothing, it takes a few seconds then starts picking up gradually. IF I were... to get a ZE throttle body, bolt that onto my 1.8 intake manifold, and got a 2.5L VAF would this help me?

THE reading on my current vaf is JE50

Quick responses are appreciated, I need to resolve this soon.

It shouldn't effect your idle. I would guess a vacuum leak when you changed manifolds, but then you said stepping on the gas doesn't help. Your engine even with the smaller TB and IM should still at least be a tad stronger then the stock K8 even with the wrong ECU / VAF. When you figure out what's wrong now, then worry about the KL throttle body and a KLDE ECU and KLDE VAF.

it runs perfectly fine, perfect idle after those 20 seconds though...

i just want to regain that power.. and ive read of alot of people upgraded computers / vafs and it gives them alotta power back..

Run your car with:

KLDE ECU and KLDE VAF
or
KLZE(KL31 or KL36)ECU and JE50 VAF

If the experience of others on this forum is anything to go on then running KLDE engine on 1.8 ECU and JE50 vaf probably means it's running ultra rich

I can't remember the exact post but someone on here dynoed KLZE with 1.8 Inlet manifold and only got 125 whp(that's a drop of 40+whp).You're best bet is to change to either a KLZE or KLDE Inlet Manifold and throttle body.

Fitting the KLZE/KLDE throttle body to a 1.8 Inlet manifold won't help much because instead of the airflow being restricted by the size of the TB it will then be restricted by the size of inlet on the manifold.

Hope this is of some help

<small>[ August 11, 2004, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: mmac ]</small>

Why would you run a DE without its Intake manifold and throttlebody?? I dont get when people do that cause they both fit fine and are on the the motor when you get it. Its more work to switch over the stock IM and TB and you lose power. Go buy the ECU on eBay or something for like $50 and trade someone on Probetalk their VAF for yours. Just let them know you got a KLZE VAF and they'll trade it quick.

KLZE ECU and KL02 VAF work best on the KLDE ENGINE? best fuel milege? best power?

Originally posted by Chasing_Size:
Guys,

Since I got my engine swapped... from a 1.8 to a KL03 (KLDE)... I have had this same problem.. When I start, the engine boggs for like 10 -25 seconds before I can drive it.. If I even try stepping on the gas, it shuts off and doesn't even do anything. Now.. also.. I have my stock 1.8 intake manifold, stock TB, stock ecu, stock VAF.

I'm running the same setup. Mostly because the ford intake doesn't fit so good, and I didn't get the ECU with the motor. by using the entire stock intake (manifold, TB, VAF ECU) i've got a system that knows how to work together and nothing is miscalibrated.

I've got no problems with idling, initial startup, or the other stuff you mentioned. And I've got pleanty of power.. (haven't tried to smoke the tires, hate to do that to perfectly good rubber, but I can 'screetch' the tires in first really easy, and even on the shift to second if I'm really on the gas hard. The increase in power over my old K8 is VERY noticable.

The only real downside to this setup is that I'm not getting the full power of the engine at higher rpm's, like say above 5.5K or so because the airflow starts to be restricted.. but I'm not up there very much, and not intending to race or anything. (eventually I might look for a Millenia curved neck intake, Proper ECU, and use the TB and VAF off the KL-DE, but for now this works more than good enough for my needs)

Your problem is something else.. have you checked:
1) base timing?
2) for vacume leaks?
3) what's you CAT look like inside?

are you getting any check engine codes?

Run the KL ECU, VAF, and intake mani/TB. Thats the best power, gas mileage, driveability, etc. Thats what I was running.
I am now running a 1.8 ECU with KL VAF since my KL ecu is fried and I lost mad power. It also runs way too rich. Not a good combo.