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Hi all,
Anyone got any suggestions for the best weight of oil for the V6?
I've got some 5w30, but I'm not sure if this is too light...
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Storm

5W30 should be fine for you for year round operation. 5W is usually preferred to minimize lifter noise at start up until the engine's warm.

Thanks man! Everyone on this board is really helpful!

How about Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W/40 syntetic? I use Castrol GTX 5 Ligthec 10W/40 "part syntetic" now. Any problem with the Magnatec if I don't know what oil that has been in the engine before?

I've done some research since I opened this topic, and this is what I've found.
Mazda recommend 5w30 for cold weather and 10w30 for hot weather.
5w30 Semi Synthetic seems to be the year round choice, but 5w40 should be ok, it's just a bit thicker. You may experience a bit more noise from the lifters. A good reference site is: http://www.searchforparts.com/important_articles/which_oil_do_i_use.html Just try and ignore the blatant advertising...
Hope that helps.

I use either castrol gtx or their synthetic blend 5W30 in either one. engine works perfect like new and it revs pretty good too, less sludge buildup better protection at higher rpm

ah crap..,. so do we hv to use 5w30?.. i didnt know and i put in 10w30... is that ok?.. coz everyone is saying 5w30.... i really didnt know.. i just put in whatever i got... whats the diff between 5w and the 10w anyway?..thx..

im running Castrol Syntec 5w-50 and my lifters are all nice and happy, no tick at all

Lok - 10w30 is fine, it's just a little bit thicker when it's cold. 5w30 will get around the engine slightly quicker, but 10w30 should still be fine.

I've seen a few folks recommend that if you are changing oil types (e.g. from normal oil to synth) that it's a good idea to do a 'flush' of the oil to make sure to get any deposits out. (I guess concern is that they might break loose and clog something..

I think I saw that on Luc's site. but memory could be faulty (happens often)

yes its best idea to flush it real good, if you can remove oil pan and clean inside

i use 10w30 mobile 1 when i cant get mobile 1 5w30. i prefer the 5w30 because it has more certain additives that protect the engine.

Arg.. 10W30 is fine... rtfm

Originally posted by Tempus:
I've seen a few folks recommend that if you are changing oil types (e.g. from normal oil to synth) that it's a good idea to do a 'flush' of the oil to make sure to get any deposits out. (I guess concern is that they might break loose and clog something..

Worse risk than clogging something is that the loosened flushed deposits end up putting grit into your crank bearings and before long, your pistons/rocker arms are "slappin time." IMO ( & my mech's), shorten the oil change interval for a few changes to more slowly (and safely) remove accumulated deposits. Some ppl swear by AutoRx for flushing deposits but I've never found independent test results to back up Rx's claims. In any case, the Gunk or "Kero" type flushes are truly risky. Also, your synth oil is perfectly compatible with normal oil so that is not a reason to consider a flush. A couple changes of synth and the minimal "normal" oil is no longer present anyway

<small>[ August 14, 2004, 04:00 AM: Message edited by: perhapsadingo8yerbaby ]</small>

I myself use 0W50 synthetic and am quite pleased with it, it's well worth the 8.00 a litre.