ze wont start help!!1

[Buff1110]

ok i got the ms8 klze engine hooked up, the vacuum isnt all correct so whats not hooked up is plugged. i have spark and fuel but the motor wont start, it cranks but just doesnt start. its either my timing or spark plug wires. im using my k8 disty and ze ecu.
so any ideas please post
ALSO
whats the correct firing order and how do u hook it up. the klze disty cap says 1 thing and the k8 says another. i need like a drawing or something for this wiring bc im confused.

[Buff1110]

also when i swapped distributors, i marked where the rotor was and when i set the new disty rotor to the same spot, the little fin thing that goes into the engine was at a different angle. the disty only went in one way but the way it fit the rotor was off a bit.

[timpronk]

the firing order is the same, its just the wires go to different spots on the cap. <p>So just make sure you have the correct cylinder wire going to the correct number on the cap (eg. cap #1 going to cylinder #1 ect...) just match the numbers.<p>The ze distributor will require an external coil so just use the one from your old motor. <p>As far as I know the key on the end of the distributor will only fit one way, so Im not to sure how that could be put in wrong, same with the rotor.

[Buff1110]

timing is good, its the distributor, heres the problem: the rotor lies in different spots for the ze disty and k8 disty. if you line up the gear in the back so that its the same for both of the distributors, the rotor is in different positions. should i drill a hole and insert the key in a different spot to align it with the ze one? or what else can i do so the car will start.

[timpronk]

do you have an external coil and ignition system? <p>If not you will need to use the distributor from the 1.8 or from a north american 2.5. The reason being is that they have an ignitor and coil built into the distibutor.<p>So if your trying to start it with the ze distributor without the external coil and ignition there will be no spark. <p>So use the 1.8 distributor. Also check that you have the ground wire attached to the back valve cover.

[Buff1110]

the ze distributor is like the k8 but the harness has 5 wires instead of 6(internal coil) my question was the position in which the rotor sits between the 2 distributors is different.

[pelado]

No, it's not different. It just the cam is in a slightly different spot than when you removed the distributor.<p>The firing order (123456) is not the same as what it appears on the dist cap. One of the wire connections on the cap has an internal passage to the under cap contact. Look on the underside of the cap and you'll see what I'm talking about.<p>It's true the disty only goes in one way but because the crank rotates twice for every single rotation of the cam it is possible to get the rotor pointed at the wrong cylinder. Line up the crank damper with the timing mark, make sure #1 is at TDC, and ensure the rotor is aligned with #1 on the cap.<p>Do you know for certain that you're getting spark? Pull a plug, connect the wire, insert a paper clip into the plug gap, hold the clip end a short distance from the block, have a friend crank it over, and watch for spark.

[Buff1110]

i did the whole procedure for lining up the #1 cylinder at tdc and putting the disty on. timing is fine and the disty is almost perfect. i get plenty of spark and enough fuel to flood the cylinders. the only thing i didnt do yet is swap oveer my knock sensor so im gonna try that today.

[Buff1110]

ok i give up she still wont start so im gonna blow her up to the f@*% sky.
swapped all sensors over, k8 ecu, purge isnt hooked up, plenty of spark, more than enough fule bc the plugs r soaked, and still no attempt to start.
wtf.

[Buff1110]

come guys what other ideas do u have.
j-spec ecu
all sensors swapped
k8 disty
all vaccuum hooked up
wont start, flooding the cylinders, have spark, no backfiring or attempt at starting. did the tdc test with cylinder #1 and that was good.

[Zoso124]

You should put some oil down in each cylinder through the spark plug hole if it keeps flooding, you don't wanna score a cylinder.<p>If you have a vaccum pump you can hook it up FPR and apply some vaccum so it doesn't keep dumping in all that fuel.<p>I'm having the same problem as you with my new engine. Its driving me nuts!

[Buff1110]

does urs start at least bc mine doesnt.

[curtklze]

pull the fuse for the fuel pump
( dont ask where it is cause if your doing the swap your self then you should know where it is)<p>pull all the spark plugs out and let the car sit like that over night. The next day squirt a very small ammount of engine oil down each spark plug hole.<p>make sure you have a fully charged battery or another car hooked up to yours with jumper cables.
put the throttle wide open and crank that sucker for 15-20 seconds so all the oil is spread in the cylinders and there is no more gas in the cylinders.<p>
no hook up a timing light to cylinder #1 wire and put the spark plug in the end of the wire, with the metal of the plug touching ground on your car.
have some one crank the car over for 15-20 seconds while you check the timing with the timing light( the car should be cranking at around 500-700 rpm with no plugs in it and a fully charged battery) this way you should see if your timing is close or not. if it is close then put everything back together, put the fuel pump fuse back in, hold the gas pedal all the way down and try to start the car by cranking it for 15-20 seconds at at time, it may take some time befor all the oil is cleaned out.<p>if you hear the engine begin to spit and sputter like it is trying to start, keep cranking it and DONT let off the throttle, when the engine starts Keep the throttle wide open un till the rpms reach 6500 then let off slowly to 4000 and keep it there for a little bit untill the engine clears its self out and starts to run smothly.<p>after all this, use the timing light and set the timing. then let it get warm and change the oil and oil filter , cause its full of gas and will destroy the bearings.<p>make sure that the spark plugs are dry and clean befor you put them back in the car.

[Zoso124]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by curtklze:
pull the fuse for the fuel pump
( dont ask where it is cause if your doing the swap your self then you should know where it is)<p>pull all the spark plugs out and let the car sit like that over night. The next day squirt a very small ammount of engine oil down each spark plug hole.<p>make sure you have a fully charged battery or another car hooked up to yours with jumper cables.
put the throttle wide open and crank that sucker for 15-20 seconds so all the oil is spread in the cylinders and there is no more gas in the cylinders.<p>
no hook up a timing light to cylinder #1 wire and put the spark plug in the end of the wire, with the metal of the plug touching ground on your car.
have some one crank the car over for 15-20 seconds while you check the timing with the timing light( the car should be cranking at around 500-700 rpm with no plugs in it and a fully charged battery) this way you should see if your timing is close or not. if it is close then put everything back together, put the fuel pump fuse back in, hold the gas pedal all the way down and try to start the car by cranking it for 15-20 seconds at at time, it may take some time befor all the oil is cleaned out.<p>if you hear the engine begin to spit and sputter like it is trying to start, keep cranking it and DONT let off the throttle, when the engine starts Keep the throttle wide open un till the rpms reach 6500 then let off slowly to 4000 and keep it there for a little bit untill the engine clears its self out and starts to run smothly.<p>after all this, use the timing light and set the timing. then let it get warm and change the oil and oil filter , cause its full of gas and will destroy the bearings.<p>make sure that the spark plugs are dry and clean befor you put them back in the car.<hr></blockquote><p>You can't get any kind of timing mark with the motor just cranking, the light will be jumping all over the place, your best bet is to stick the disty in about the middle and tighten the bolt slightly.<p>Reving it up to 6k isn't gonna prove anything, just blip the throttle to keep it running, adjust the timing after the engine has warmed up.<p>I don't know how many times you have flooded but I would think you'd score the cylinders before you'd totally contaminate the oil.<p>So do as curt said and put some vaccum on the FPR.<p>[ May 22, 2003: Message edited by: Zoso124 ]</p>