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I have been driving my mx-3 with a kl-ze in it for about 5 days now and it rocks!:tup: In case you missed it, I posted some pics with the motor in <A HREF="http://www.probetalk.com/forums/showthr ... 1700970030" TARGET=_blank>HERE</A>. The thing is, there are a couple bugs I need to work out. There are about 2 or 3, but this is the most important one. Ok, the idle goes from 500 to 1500 to 500 to 1500 and so on and so forth. So I adjusted the TPS and it didn't seem to do anything. The idle should be about 700, correct? Well my idle was at about 1200 so I tried to adjust the TPS and the idle would only go higher, I could not get it to go any lower than 1200. Anyway, I set the TPS at the best postition I could find. I tried adjusting the idle screw, but to make the car idle at 700 or so, it makes the 500 to 1500 dip more amplified. So I had to set the idle high at about 1300 now to keep it from dipping. I think I am starting to nail down the problem: THE CAR'S IDLE ONLY DIPS FROM 500 TO 1500 TO 500 WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED. Here is my thought: If the power brakes rely on vacuum pressure, and the idle fluctuates only when the brake pedel is pushed in, then does that mean that I have a vacuum leak?:???: I took starting fluid and sprayed it on all of my vacuum hoses and the idle never once picked up higher than it was. I do not hear any vacuum leaks. I listened with a tube for leaks. I checked the elbow piece post VAF leading to the throttle body and no cracks there. Also, me and my dad were riding in the car and we were coming to a light that take like 5 minutes to cycle so I shut the motor off and coasted to the stop light. I went to hit the brakes to slow down and there were no brakes. I thought that the brakes were good for a couple pushes with the engine off because of built up vacuum pressure?:wtf: Is this all insane BS or does it support the theory of a vacuum leak?<P>Another question, can a bad o2 sensor cause a rough idle? I pulled codes on my engine and I got:<P><UL TYPE=SQUARE><LI>09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)<BR><LI>16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system<BR><LI>17 LHO2S inversion error<BR><LI>24 RHO2S inversion error<BR><LI>69 ECTF sensor<BR></UL> <P>I think 17 and 24 are the left and right o2 sensors. Correct? # 16 is cool 'cause i expected it. 09 and 69 are another story, but don't worry about those right now. Could the o2 sensor's be causing this? There is still another thing I am considering, it's what people are talking about in <A HREF="http://www.probetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ht=5001500" TARGET=_blank>THIS</A> post. I am stumped. I am not a mechanical genius to start with. I hope I have been descriptive enough. It is kinda hard diagonsing something like this via message board or e-mail. Sorry for the long post, I hope someone can help.......... [img]shrug.gif"%20border="0[/img]<p>[ April 14, 2002: Message edited by: 93 mx-3 gs/se ]

Brother.. I hope you get a reply on this.. I have the same problem with my KL-ZE... Idle jumps all around.. I also notice a lot more jumping when it's in gear as opposed to neutral.. I haven't yet checked my codes... when I do, I'll compare them to your findings.. Good Luck!

Uh, yeah, it sounds like a vacuum leak on you brake vacuum booster. The hose may not be the problem but the booster itself could probably use a rebuild.

The booster has always worked perfectly. It only has 38,000 miles on it. [img]shrug.gif"%20border="0[/img]

Fine, it's not the vacuum booster. <BR>How do YOU explain the drop in idle when you press on the brakes when the hose going to the booster is OK?

I just finished pulling codes on my swapp and guess what... I got the same O2 codes and my idle does the same thing. I used Jeff's website and wired in universal O2s to save money. At first I thought I wired them wrong but if you have the same codes?? Did you use your old O2 sensons or get new ones?

I am still using my old ones. Did replacing your o2 sensors fix your idle problem?

UPDATE:<P>Look at this photo......................<BR> <P>BTW, that is not mine, I got that photo from a website. Anyway, I was afraid this would happen. When I was installing my kl-ze I noticed that there was a sensor (the ECTF) that was on my 1.8, but not on my ZE. I was going to drill and tap a hole for it and swap the sensor, but it seemed like too much work and I thought I could get away with not doing it. I guess I was wrong. Is there a way that I can get around taping and drilling a hole for the sensor or do I have to do it to make the code go away and the fan's work properly?<P>Another thing............<P>Why am I throwing a code 09? I have the sensor plugged in. Do you think the sensor itself is bad? I have an extra that I could put on. Should I swap them?<P>What should I do about code's 17 and 24? Should I replace my o2 sensor's?<P>The EGR code is ok, because I did not swap it onto the ZE.<P>How do I know if the check valve is working properly?<P>Sorry for all these questions, I just really want to fix this problem.<BR>Keep feeding me info guys, I REALLY appreciate your help!:tup:

I have the same code on my reprogrammed ecu as well........I just ordered 2 new O2's from Nopi ($46 each).<P>But, I'll tell ya one thing, I'm definately not having the idling problem that your having..........I still think it has something to do with the way that your pcv valve vacuum hose is wired and your brake master cylinder as well. I know that that's how Corksport had there's routed as well, but I think that they're wrong too.......just follow the vacuum hose wiring diagram in the online shop manual and you should be fine, even though that it's for the K8.

Hey knockout, sorry if I sound retarded but it's kinda hard to follow the 1.8 vac diagram because the vacuum ports are in different places on my millenia manifold. Could you snap a pic of how you have routed your hoses and post if for me? Thanks!

I got my MX-3 back from doing the kl-ze swap about 3 weeks ago and i've got the same problem. It did it before with the 1.8 as well. I figured it was due to my crank angle sensor in the distributor being bad. It does it really badly when in gear, hardly at all when in neutral, and putting my foot on the brakes doesn't cause it. i tapped a whole for that sensor, the only other way to do it is the take the whole assembly off and swap in the one from the 1.8l. If you think tapping is a big job, wait until you see what's involved in doing it the other way. That sensor alone i'm told can cause an eratic idle like your describing. Just my 2 cents on it.<BR>Mike

Well, did you put the sensor in and you are still having a problem, or did swapping that sensor fix the rough idle?

hey im haveing the same problem too<BR> , on my car it sounds llike it in the distributor pins are inther diferent place. ( i mean in side of the distibutor cap. ) I was compering the 2 of them and found the it was diferent pins.i m going to try to find the rest of the distributor part From klze and see if that is the problem it sounds like iot is misssing fire. what u guys thinK about my idea?

I think you should be using the disty from your 1.8 V6

Here are some things to check for these problems.<P>1. the vac hose off the booster has a one way check valve in it, make sure its hooked up the right way and it works.<P>2. make sure the the cooling system was filled properly. On most import cars if there is air in the system or the coolant is low , the idle will surge like you described.<P>3. make sure the coolant lines to the throttle body are hooked up. It needs hot coolant to operate properly.