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When i have my car running for about 3 mins or so the car starts to low idle and sounds like its going to die....I would really like to hear some feedback about this. Also if you know if there is an engine swap for a '94 MX-3 1.6L because im looking to find something better for it. Well i'd really appreciate it if you guys could give me some info, I just got the car so it would help alot. Thanks Jon
email me @ pimpinmstng55@yahoo.com or just post it

All your answers are in the Search feature. Look around at previous posts and all the answers will come to you.

Ok, like I said I just got the car....Anyone who has experience with a 16 Valve DOHC, it is a good engine? Also i was looking for places online where i can find cheap modifications for my car and cheap hoods because mine isn't in the best shape right now its got a few dings and dents... So if you guys or girls got ne thing throw it at me I would appreciate it alot.
Jon

Oh and one more thing, it seems when im trying to go from neutral to 1st gear i have to push the gas in a little hard because it revs really high, but it could be my shifting im not proficent in it but if you know anything bout that. Im sorry im not that smart when it comes to my car yet but im getting there.

Hey hang in there, the high Rev is natural with the MX3.

If you need help with learning to drive stick then go to this site >> http://www.10w40.com/individual/100186.asp


1st gear is an instant switch you should not stay on it after letting go of the clutch. Instantly switch to 2nd.

The faster you switch between gears the better the fuel economy. Keeping at a minimal RPM is the best.

Now about the "After two minutes the engine revs real low like its about to die"

Thats with mine to! Some say spark plugs, other say ECU, Air Filter, or even the Alternator thats about 70 AMP. I am going to switch to the 90 AMP, and I recommend you upgrade also.

When I play Music I can see the lights dim a bit, and we just dont want that now do we! Thats 4 cyl for ya. Take care!

If your headlights dim when you switch on a load (like a stereo) at idle, it is ususally not the alternator. It is either the battery or the wiring. If the dimming continues at higher RPMs, then it is most likely the wiring.

You can hook up a volt meter across the battery to see if the voltage drops when you fire up your lights (or stereo). If it stays pretty solid, then measure the voltage between the negative terminal of the battery and the chassis. It should be close to zero volts. If it goes up to more than 200mv when you switch on your lights, your grounding is bad. As a reference, I just measured mine with the lights on and the radio blaring, and the drop was only 31mv. With my recent BP swap I added some grounds and I sandpapered all the copper lugs on the standard ones, so mine should be better than most.

as far as dimming lights try a capacitior! They are fairly cheap and work awesome. I still have the idle problem, even with the cap, but its not cause of the stereo. My next order of business is engine grounding, optima battery and 90 amp alternator, will see what happens

disconnect your negative battery cable pump your brake 5 times to reset your computer. wait till it happens again. your computer will hold the code. that was happening to me and after i reset the computer it stopped happening. if it does happen take it in (light on or off) and the should be able to pull the error code and tell you whats wrong

Ill have to try some of those things see how it works. Thanks for your feedback guys I appreciate it alot. So about engine swaps, whats the difference between the B6 and the stock? I want to get a new one but I think im going to get of things done first but I want to know for near future references. Do you know some spark plugs that have a good spark and are long lasting. Like I said im new to all this motor stuff but i want to know how to do all of this and know about all the main things to my car. If you guys got any tips for me throw them at me.
Jon

Boush platnum 4's Available at any auto parts place. You don't even have to gap them! They'll run you about 20 to 30 bucks for a set of 4

Boush platnum 4's

These suck don't even waste your money

simply saying something sucks doesnt give you much credibility. I have been using Bosch Platinum +4's and find they work well. My friends also use the same ones, and no problems.

have you had bad experiences personally with them? or was this just a un-informed opinion?

Ok, i found out why my battery was dieing and the car dies. I have a manual switch inside my car that is hooked up to my raditor fan that i have to turn on manually, im sure some of you have heard of it. But i was driving it the other day and i decided to turn it off since its so cold and i dont have to worry to much about over heating. Well after that it started to idle right and it wouldn't die ne more. But i have to figure out how to fix my wire from draining my battery. Anyone ever have this problem? Also does ne one in here have a cd player for a car for sale because i need one desperately so if you did let me know alright thanks.
Jon

bmwm3guy wrote:simply saying something sucks doesnt give you much credibility. I have been using Bosch Platinum +4's and find they work well. My friends also use the same ones, and no problems.

have you had bad experiences personally with them? or was this just a un-informed opinion?

There have been many that have posted problems using the Bosche Platinum plugs in our cars. You need a high voltage spark from the ignition to make good use of these plugs and our stock ignition is not high enough. Given that, I tried them in my SOHC last spring before I was on this forum and they seemed to work fine for me. In my new BP I'm just using the NGK stock plugs for the BP and those seem fine too.

I suspect you can't really tell the difference on these various plugs without going to a dyno unless they are so far off that your spark is intermittant.