MX-3.com

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote: @ Ino: I see your ego is too big to ignore me like you claimed you would, heh.

It's not my ego that prompted me to reply to your nonsense. It's just my disdain for your kind.

Okay peeps.

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... E2-003.gif

Opens at 82 (160)
Full open at 95 (203)

Now, cooling system is capable of dissapaiting 53700 kcal/hour. This is approximately 80 HP. The engine is also cooled by regular airflow through the bay, and being an aluminum engine, this will be significant. You'd have to be working her REAL hard for a lot of straight time (stay on the throttle, as decel is fuel cut, which is cooling the motor via air processing at 7K, which is a LOT of flow) under shitty flow conditions to overheat her. This isn't a problem for 95% of MX owners.

http://www.b15u.com/engine-swaps-builds ... water.html

Engine coolant boils at roughly 260F or 130C degrees at 15 PSI under ideal conditions, neglecting details like faulty rad cap, or more than 50/50 mix, degradation and contamination or whatever. Thermodyamics is very clear that a boiling substance cannot surpass its boiling point until its in the gas phase. You'll get steam underhood before you exceed 260. More realistically, 110ish or 230.

Inodoro, I live in one of the coldest climate in a "civilized" location. No other climate is colder than a continental northern climate, don't tell me otherwise. If you want to, lecture me on Mennonites and prairies while you're at it.

My mother's Sentra tossed the W/P belt last winter, and she drove 15k without her temp gauge moving at all. Its that damn cold.

ALL of my cars have had no problems hitting normal temperature. I can only gauge this based off of the needle. I'm assuming the resolution of the needle is decent, as I'd hope it would hit the red before steam poured out of the bay (from 160 thermostat open to 230 boil)

blocking off the rad with cardboard helps the car warm up a little. I theorize this is just by restricting airflow in the bay, and keeping it off the rad, because the cooling system ALWAYS has a TINY bit of flow, and the motor itself gets hot at the same rate as the coolant. I have noticed 0 impact on the running temperature. Cardboard or not, it hits the same spot in cold weather, because it just doesn't get hot in the bay. Also, my splash shields are gone...

Now, I've never really raced any of my vehicles, so I can't speak with experience with heat. I still doubt it makes that much of a difference though. I'm not sure about the K8, but I know the B6 is overcooled by a lot both from a numbers point of view and experience...

And guys, please quit with the threats, its both pathetic and old.



Unless you're really such an a--hole in real life too, in which case I simply pity you.

Flyer wrote:

Hahaha awesome gif

On a different note, has anyone noticed that cruise control doesn't work unless you're at operating temperature? I've had this happen the past three times I remembered to try it before operating temp.

Ryan: actually, I think the cooling through the engine bay airflow was the cause of my engine gross overcooling on that trip. My experience at that time leads me to disagree with your statement that covering up the radiator has no impact in engine temperature, as I spent 4 days, first progressively covering it up as my temperature repeatedly hit rock bottom, and, on the trip back, progressively uncovering it every time my engine started to overheat.

You say cooling system can dissipate 53700Kcal/hr. At which ambient temperature? You're not implying that a heat exchanger will dissipate the same at 120F than at -30F...are you?

About the coolant boiling temperature, you're mistaken. The boiling temperature of a 50/50 mix of coolant and water is 260F. The boiling temperature of straight antifreeze is 387F. However, being that normal antifreeze needs to be mixed with water, that temperature can't be reached.
But the boiling temperature of the "waterless coolant" developed in the '80s by jack Evans is 370F, and that one, as its name says, doesn't need water.

About racing, it depends on the kind of racing you do. If racing in a road course, you're running the engine at high RPM 70-90% of the time, and, depending on the circuit, a good part of that time you're running at lower gears, so your airflow speed is limited.

Inodoro Pereyra wrote: So the thermostat has NO INFLUENCE whatsoever in the engine's normal operating temperature....

Umm...no. The thermostat and the efficiency of the radiator, quoted by Ryan, are the MAIN INFLUENCES on the engine's normal operating temperature.

The thermostat opening temperature determines the point at which the radiator starts cooling the system. The MX-3's very large radiator is more than capable, particularly on the K8, of removing all the heat generated by the engine and maintaining a temperature very close to the full open temperature of the thermostat. In fact, the only time my temperature needle has ever spent any significant time at any point other than normal operating temperature is an occasion when the thermostat stuck closed.

I've never driven a car with a better cooling system than the MX-3.

people are just getting stupider and stupider in this thread. Y'all need to just stop.

I'm just going to say that Inodoro, your cooling system must have been malfunctioning, because it doesn't make sense that you had more extreme results in less extreme weather.

Ryan wrote:I'm just going to say that Inodoro, your cooling system must have been malfunctioning, because it doesn't make sense that you had more extreme results in less extreme weather.

Probably. But what puzzles me is: what kind of malfunction (other than a thermostat stuck open, which was not the case) would cause a cooling system to over cool the engine like that? For what I can tell, Mazdas in general seem to have oversized cooling systems. Before that 3, I had a '91 Protege (B8) that I ran without the cooling fan, in Miami, for 3 years, and never had it overheat on me. But I'd never have such an extreme case before (or after, for what it's worth, and so far I've owned 4 Mazdas), or heard of anybody else having it.
All I can tell you is it was a real struggle to keep the needle off the bottom stopper...

Air bubble can cause exactly that, Inodoro, or a bad connector/sensor.


When the rad fan finally came on on my B6, I thought the car was on fire for the amount of dust it fired off, I'd been driving it for a few weeks by then....

Ryan wrote:Air bubble can cause exactly that, Inodoro, or a bad connector/sensor.

Overcooling?
AFAIK, a bubble causes overheating, not overcooling. But here's the really weird part: at the time, I had owned the car for more than a year, and took it on the highway daily, to go to work, and NEVER, before or after that trip, had an issue.

Even on the trip back, once I got past Georgia, my radiator was again fully uncovered, and the needle was right at the center.

Some weird thing about the air sitting around the sensor... I don't know how it works, my mechanic explained it to me once, I suppose that doesn't make it fact.

I'm just replying to say that I have no need to repeat what I've already said, and to what Ryan and Wytbishop had contributed to that tought. I'm not getting into an argumented loop...

And FYI, as for members that raced their Mx-3's...I am one of them.

Ryan,

I can't back this up with evidence at the moment, but I do believe the normal operating temp would affect the cruise control because it affects the idle. If you have your IAC functioning and your engine is below normal operating temps, then your idle would rise for multiple purposes; It makes sense that your cruise control wouldn't work at this time, because your idle dropping(upon the engine reaching normal operating temps) would affect the amount of throttle required to maintain that speed. That's the only logical conclusion I can come up with for that, without having torn the cooling system apart first hand.

Inodoro,

During the 1st 6-7 months I owned my MX3, my needle never left the stopper so far as I noticed. I even posted on here that I believed it odd.

I didn't really pursue the matter, as the issue(if it was one) has gone away. My needle stays very low until after I've driven the car on the highway for a while. No amount of time idling in the driveway made a difference for that, only highway miles or hard acceleration.

My needle has been above midline since I repaired my coolant piping, and I have still yet to do a rad. flush out of fear that I will need to replace it afterwards. Who knows what kind of holes will be uncovered when I do it, and I can't currently afford a new radiator, not when it runs just fine as is. I'll post my worklog when I do it though, along with all the other things I've done. I like things to be neat/tidy, so I haven't posted my numerous projects, even though I have documented them.


nightshade,

Coming from the guy who rags on my posts without reading them, that's rather ironic. I can't wait until your bad attitude lands you upside down in a ditch, I simply hope you're driving a different car when it happens.

Also, Inodoro is out of your league in every way. I don't personally agree with every single thing he says, but I respect him. I also respect Ryan, wytbishop, and many others for their knowledge and experience. I don't always agree with them, and have sometimes been at odds with them completely. The thing is, they can argue like men, they can admit mistakes like men, and not one of them would be so petty as to say that somebody deserved to have their car keyed.

You, and most people on here, know very little about me. If you knew me, you wouldn't have made the comment you did about my car. Had you said that to my face, you'd be in the hospital right now. You don't know my values, and you never will. You probably don't know the value others see in certain possessions, because you likely had yours handed to you. I'll tell you this, my car is worth a great deal to me, and it isn't about money. You probably wouldn't understand, but I suggest you watch what you say to people.

I'll drop this s---, if you're willing to man up and do the same. We don't need to agree or like eachother to be civil; for my part, It's over.

Ryan wrote:Some weird thing about the air sitting around the sensor... I don't know how it works, my mechanic explained it to me once, I suppose that doesn't make it fact.

I think I know what you mean, would it be that the air bubble encapsulates the sensor, and it can't get an accurate read of the temperature? Sounds weird, but plausible.

MrMazda92 wrote:

Ryan wrote:Some weird thing about the air sitting around the sensor... I don't know how it works, my mechanic explained it to me once, I suppose that doesn't make it fact.

I think I know what you mean, would it be that the air bubble encapsulates the sensor, and it can't get an accurate read of the temperature? Sounds weird, but plausible.

Very plausible considering that part of the coolant system is the highest point