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Yup, all of the gear oil above that line in the transmission...

Don't forget the washer (if there is one) on reassembly, or you won't be able to shift into reverse.

how will i fill the oil back up?

There is a fill bolt on the front of the transmission, you fill it until it pours out of that. Messy, but it works with a hose and a funnel.

Or you drain it right empty and add the value from the manuals through a hole higher up, 3.something litres, IIRC.

Here is a quick question that some think may be dumb, I have found on some websites that the v6 1.8 cat for sale it says compatibility 93-97, some say 92-95 on the cats, so I called up a company (HK5) in Cali and asked them about it and they simply stated that it wasn't on their compatability list for 1992 Mx-3s (the year I have). I was wanting to buy a high flow cat that they sell but they discouraged me. The only thing I can think of is possibly a shorter/longer cat on the first NA production. What you guys think?

I'd think it has to do with OBDI and OBDII. The changover happened somewhere around/before 1995. I don't know where the post-cat O2 bung is located, if its on the cat's pipe or not, but that would be a difference. The exhaust size/length is exactly the same throughout the years as far as I know.

Ryan wrote:I'd think it has to do with OBDI and OBDII. The changover happened somewhere around/before 1995. I don't know where the post-cat O2 bung is located, if its on the cat's pipe or not, but that would be a difference. The exhaust size/length is exactly the same throughout the years as far as I know.

OK thanks Ryan, do you or anyone else have a suggestion on a good high flow cat converter then? Or a place to buy a buypass? I figure if I get a cat with the O2 bung that I don't need then I can get a shallow bolt with the right thread and a little loc-tite and plug 'er up. Mainly I didnt want the bolt up from the downpipe-to-cat or cat-to-catback to be different or the length be tremendously off.

Found the link, It was amazon, not ebay... der..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I4 ... rd_i=typ01

Alrighty, VRIS question.


I have recently tapped into the ECM to get the VRIS signals to run a few indicator lights.... orange/green is VRIS #1 switched ground, brown white is VRIS #2 switched ground. The wiring goes somethign like this:


main relay (white/red) this is a 12v feed

solenoid

switched ground in ECM


I tapped in between the solenoid and ground, feeding 12v to + leg of diode and grounding to the switched ground path (12v potential)

Now, my VRIS 1 solenoid is open at idle like it should be, and the diagnosis runs the proper checks (both fire)

but the VRIS doesn't move from the idle postion, #1 is open all the time, #2 is closed all the time. I've done full runs upto redline.

Nusht.

Any reason why the PCM wouldn't send the signals?

I'm using an ATX harness in an MTX car, KLZE'd...

Tap in before the soliniod (Ha, my spell check said this should be spelled 'Mussolini' . Were the VRIS working prior to your light install?

I don't know.

Likely not. I found a thread on PT where a guy with an MTX swap had the same issue... and I'm using an ATX harness, so I think its actually the same issue...

I'll trudge through the diagrams until I find something suspicious.


If I ground out the VRIS pin (brn/white) the solenoid fires properly.

So its actually the ECM not sending the correct signal... ever.

VRIS 1 opens at idle and stays open forever, #2 passes the startup test but then always remains closed.

I'm not sure where I read it but I believe the ECU needs to come from a MTX car as well. Like you said, if you can manually send the signal to open the VRIS the ECU just straight up not sending the signal. (If the ECU is from a ATX then it for some reason may be waiting for a signal from a gear shift indicator or something stupid like that. Hope this helps a little bit at least.

Patrick

The relationship chart in the manuals suggests the VRIS system relies on the crankshaft position sensor (NE1 or 2, not sure) TPS, brake switch, and VSS.

I'll test these systems more thoroughly when I have more time. The only ones that would change from ATX to MTX are the TPS and maybe brake switch. VSS checks out, and I don't get any NE codes.

yup yup tried searching (like an hour) because i didnt want you guys to get all crazy on me. but yeah can someone point me in the direction of removing my cruise control. i have an aftermarket steering wheel and i didnt really use it much before then anyway.

Unless you want to remove the electronics, its simple. (You don't want to remove electroncis)

In the cabin, the buttons on the left, and the centre part of the steering wheel.

In the bay, the module itself and its bracket, the vac line, and the throttle cable.

It won't throw a code, it will just be non functional... hell, if you kept the parts, the next owner could re-install it.

so as far as wieght saving goes i should just leave it in. i only wanted it out becuase i thought there was more to it.

They only reason I'd delete it is for bay cleanliness. Weight, you're right, is pretty much nil. Skip breakfast on your race day, same effect