MX-3.com

Hmmm... Let me see if I can find something...

Nope, nothing.
I wish I had one, so I could measure it...

Anyway, if you look at the power numbers, the K8 delivers more power/cc than the DE. However, the intake cam profile seems fairly crappy (it has a huge lift, compared to the KL01, but duration is a lot shorter), so I wonder where that extra power comes from.

But, in any case, the exhaust lift and total duration are the same, unless the K801 has some crazy slopes (which I doubt, being a street engine), I'd think it wouldn't have much of a difference with the KL01, if any.

Any opinions on engine bay colour?

I was thinking I'd do mounts and brackets in black/undercoat... I'd really love to weld up all the unused holes, etc. Engine/trans... not sure what colour yet. Oil pan... Trans end cap, VC's. I/M...

Vac/coolant hoses will all be black.

Debating PS delete, but will probably go along with it.

A/C lines might be silver/white.... maybe tucked too, if I can find out how to route new ones.

I'm thinking the car exterior will be either Blaze Red, Brilliant Black, or one of the silvers....

I would actually love a black/red theme like Rekognize...


Also, do you think an Exedy OEM kit would hold up fine?

Hmmm... A few days ago, I started making a list of colors, from the House Of Kolor catalog, that I want to try, in different combinations, to finally decide what color is my future car gonna be. When I finished it, I did the math on how much it'd be, buying only 1 qt. of each. It came to $1036 and cents. So, imagine: if I can't even decide the color of my own car...

Does anyone have experience with putting 200+ HP through a Exedy OEM replacement clutch?

And to help with the oiling issue, I have thought up an partial solution.

I want to reduce the nozzle opening in the pistons squirters. That must be a LOT of flow through those, all 6 of them. I think just pinching them with pliers (uniformly) would be enough to make a decent difference.

I realize they serve and important purpose, thats why I'm not getting rid of them entirely.

Sounds interesting...
Maybe a combination of both, a shim in the oil pump, and, since the increase in oil pressure means an increase in flow through the squirters, then you could do the pinching. That way you could use a smaller shim...

Worth a try...?

The thing with shimming the pump is it doesn't affect nominal pressure.

But I suppose its around 6k+ in the corners where that pressure is needed, anyway...

yep. For what I read, the oiling issue only appears when you drive the engine hard, close to redline. Either way, I'd still overbore #6, just as extra insurance. That, a thinner shim and the restricted squirters, should give you all the peace of mind you need.

Once I crack it open, I'll have a better look at where all the pressure goes. I've only opened one K8, and it was without the intent of reassembly.

Personally, I don't think opening up # 6 will help. I haven't done any calculations, but I think its simply its the unfortunate location, and distance from the pump, and all the pressure lost across all the other bearings..... Its volume that isn't making it there, not pressure.

Is there a high flow pump that isn't made by Toga?

Hmm, I like the sound of an electric fuel pump myself... No parasitic losses, and it could run before the engine starts. Tie it into your accessory switch in your ignition, give it a few seconds to prime, and then start. You could wire it into that silly green light, so you know it is primed. That's how I will do it, if I can find out how. ;D

I hope you mean oil pump not fuel pump. The fuel pump is electric already.

An electric oil pump is usually part of a set up called a dry sump or remote sump. This is used in Formula 1 cars, for instance, to allow the oil pan to be much smaller in order to put the engine closer to the ground. They need a small pump to pump from the pan to the sump, and then a high pressure pump to send it back to the engine.

In our cars, the only reason to do it would be to use a stronger type of pump, with added benefits like you mentioned.


And don't use the parasitic loss argument. No power is free power. Whether your pump is mechanical or electrical, it does work, and work means it gets power from somewhere. I'd even say the mechanical would be less loss, as you don't have the conversion loss (<100% efficient alternator for mechanical-> electric and the then the pump from electric->mechanical work) and you only need the one pump as opposed to two.

So, how is the project going? Did you start working on the engine, or you're still in the research stage?

all gaskets/seals are in the mail, should be here shortly after Xmas. First I need to get the block in my basement... somehow...

Hmmm... a basement? I'd be more worried about how you're gonna get the assembled engine out of there...

Ignore the fuel bit... I definitely meant oil -.- I haven't slept for 5 days, cut me some slack! Hah, that did sound pretty stupid...

I know what a dry sump is Ryan -.- I meant in regards to getting the oil lightly flowing before the engine is even started. That would greatly increase the longevity of any engine, if it worked properly. It appeals greatly to me for that exact reason!

Inodoro, I know that was directed to Ryan but I have an answer too I'm between research and part acquisition, I have a cleaned up, soon to be polished Throttle body, I'm in the process of sourcing a KLG4 IM(Temporary, pending my budget), Water Pump, I am still undecided on a machine shop for my head work though. Cams are pending purchase, I am looking around for higher comp. pistons still, so it's coming along... just not terribly quickly. I'm also hating the transmission... I am just not happy with it, compared to any other manual I've ever driven(besides the civic hatch, eww...)

Bleh :/