MX-3.com

Hahah no mate half my I/C pipes are aircraft spec. aluminium so its top quality ... and they should be done under trades description act,lol

I belive pukka originates from a Hindi word meaning "cooked" But it British slang means all good.

Bar a little bit of a surface grind to the flanges the IHI to T25 adaptor block is complete
Final height is 38mm


Other good news! won what the Fella reckons is a recently refurb. Garrett T25 (new bearing, seals and wheels) for 75 quid on Sunday night, looks a bit ropey on the outside so will clean it up when it arrives and sort out new water/oil ports for it, and also "clock" it by rotating the housing's to get the oil drain right and the bottom and the turbine housing pointing somewhere nearer to the intercooler

youdirtyfox wrote:Bar a little bit of a surface grind to the flanges the IHI to T25 adaptor block is complete
Final height is 38mm


Other good news! won what the Fella reckons is a recently refurb. Garrett T25 (new bearing, seals and wheels) for 75 quid on Sunday night, looks a bit ropey on the outside so will clean it up when it arrives and sort out new water/oil ports for it, and also "clock" it by rotating the housing's to get the oil drain right and the bottom and the turbine housing pointing somewhere nearer to the intercooler

75 quid??? that's like $120! that's insanely cheap for a rebuilt turbo, good job bud look forward to seeing it!

tbh i have taken a bit of gamble as the fella could not prove it had been rebuilt,(he sounded very genuine in emails though) but it was on a 200sx that he was breaking so I guess the previous owner must of told him, and to be fair the turbine wheels do look brand new!

Funny how many people miss the last 't' of Garrett on there ebay listings

youdirtyfox wrote:Funny how many people miss the last 't' of Garrett on there ebay listings

Hahahaha, I've scored so much stuff on Ebay because of spelling mistakes! Good on ya Bro!

Been a busy few lunch breaks this week trying to repair the broken stud and crack on the exhaust manifold. The old stud was hard as f--- to drill through!
Ground out the crack to a V and has been TIG'd using stainless steel wire, in hindsight should of really preheated as a few more cracks appeared in the weld, have no idea if this is going to work or not and dont know a way to test it. Might have to grind some more off and try again next week, if that dont work I'll be hunting for another..

It looks good, but it will probably eventually crack. they are just a horrible design. My grandfather used to weld cast iron all the time. he said you heat the iron up red hot then weld it, he preferred a ARC welder but probably only because that's what he had at the time. He would repair blocks and old heads for his race car and restoration projects. One thought is put a plug in the O2 sensor hole and weld it up and relocate the O2 to the downpipe. that is the weak spot and what causes the crack. I ran with mine cracked for like a year, it does cause some boosting issues :/

Good luck I am excited to see this completed, if I come across another I will be sure to let you know.

oh very interesting your grandfather sounds a bit like mine , always tinkering with engines and stuff
The 02 sensor bung for this was on the downpipe, but tbh if its going to crack again which is more than likely then I dont really
want to use it as it will leave me without a car then I will be in desperate need of a manifold.
Think id rather pay the money for something decent now and not having to worry about constant repairs!

Thanks Josh would be great of you hear anything, I have joined club protege and Im also waiting to hear back on price from a motorsport fab.company here in the UK that produced a stainless steel grade 321 manifold for a customers miata which is fully back purged and ported.

With the imminent arrival of the new tubby thought I better make a start at looking at the downpipe fabrication. Have decided to use 2.5" stainless steel as that's what I had a few bends of anyway so got a couple more, and have found this great pocketed flange for a T25 from the US milled to take 2.5" pipe. While Im making this will also try and cobble together a decat pipe section aswell.




Gives a better idea of the shape I think needs creating..

New Turbo arrived yesterday so I quickly stripped off the exhaust elbow to check for any cracks this time, absolutely none and zero shaft play either. It needs clocking, but I have to buy some seriously good circlip pliers first! Also came with a Turbo Technics emblem on the wastegate actuator(might of been rebuilt there or an actual TT actuator?) and an oil drain that I can probably modify and shorten to suit.





Also spent a few hours yesterday with the multimeter and some long reach probes checking a few of the wires on the
the ECU plug for the AEM, found around 75 percent of them so far, with them being colour coded and matching some
of the diagrams its making it fairly straight forward. We are going to hook a few up today and see if we can get them registering:D
Watch this space...

good to hear you got a nice score on the turbo, i'm happy for you =)

Cheers bro im happy;) AEM is now live! TPS, MAF, MAP, O2, Injectors all wired in and calibrated(ish)



Got a vid to upload in a bit...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0DoVzyq ... e=youtu.be

Great job !!

Did you install everything / tune yourself?

Thanks! I had a friend help me out, we probably spent 5 hours doing research, then another five hours wiring it in.

There is no tune right now, all the fuel, ignition tables are set to 0. So its just there running but not affecting anything.
We are either going to street tune it when boosted or take it to be mapped on a rolling road unless I can find a map for a miata
that might work on the AEM/miataturbo.net forum.

Nice Work! 2.5" on the 1.6 is pretty much ideal, this is coming together nicely