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Jazzylay20 wrote:I kinda have the same problem with my MX-3 GS. I had a slight hesitation when i first started driving it. I replaced the pump, filter, plugs, wires and the problem stopped for a little then my car started stalling at half a tank on right turns. I opened the tank and the fuel had sut in it so i clean it out. after that the car ran well for a week then started running with the hesitation again. I tried running fuel injector cleaner in it and if still hesitated. Then the next time i filled up i used a fuel booster, the car then started running worse, it has a rough idel after it warms up and now a heavy tick coming from the engine.. i think a fuel injector failed but i'm unsure. Mind you the car still has the hesitiation either way.. Any ideas?

any codes?

mitmaks wrote:

Jazzylay20 wrote:I kinda have the same problem with my MX-3 GS. I had a slight hesitation when i first started driving it. I replaced the pump, filter, plugs, wires and the problem stopped for a little then my car started stalling at half a tank on right turns. I opened the tank and the fuel had sut in it so i clean it out. after that the car ran well for a week then started running with the hesitation again. I tried running fuel injector cleaner in it and if still hesitated. Then the next time i filled up i used a fuel booster, the car then started running worse, it has a rough idel after it warms up and now a heavy tick coming from the engine.. i think a fuel injector failed but i'm unsure. Mind you the car still has the hesitiation either way.. Any ideas?

any codes?

I wish i could do the paperclip thing but i can't pull the codes right yet.. the tranny is pulled off and i'm replacing the clutch, and trying to remove the flywheel but i'm hesitant cuz i can't remember if moving the flywheel can mess up my timing. just trying to get a few ideas what it could be. that and the battery is dead and its all sittin apart in my garage. lol

Timing = synchronizing piston position to spark
If your timing was great and you wanted to keep it then you would have lined up crank pulley to 0 deg and marked the distributor position before you remove it.
If you did not have to remove the distributor you can turn the crank shaft not worry - timing will not change. Even if you did remove the distributor just line the crank pulley to 0 degree at the front of the engine and insert the distributor so the rotor is pointing to spark plug #1. Then set the distributor so it is in the middle of its adjustment slot and fine tune after everything is back together. You'll need a timing light and you'll need to put the ECU into diagnostics mode - instructions in the repair manuals accessible at this site.

uhh your timing has got to be +10 degrees not 0. so if you time it, take a wire put it in the Ground and slot 10. then start the car. if you are setting the timing, youll have to set your idle too. setting the timing goes with setting the idle. if the timings changed the idle will change. its a little bit of a pita. OH and youll wanna set it 250rpms higher then normal cause when you pull the wire, the rpms will drop. and pulling off your fly wheel will not harm anything so giver sh*t! just make sure you put it back on with all the bolts.

Omg thanks guys. That makes le relieved. I do have to replace thetiming belt soon but I think i'll take to a timing and synonymous shop to do that.

Do you have any updates to report on your hesitation issues? I have been chasing the same problem for quite some time now and thought I'd see if you stumbled onto the solution.

Unfortunately ive been pretty broke lately, and because my car isnt a commuter vehicle... its just sitting in my drive way.
Hopefully soon i will be replacing the alternator, and solve that problem. At that point i think i will look into replacing the distributor.
From all the info ive gathered on here. if your O2 sensors are ok and your vacuum system is ok. distributor can be a sneaky little problem causing this issue. If you have the chilton book, look up how to test the distributor and see if it checks out ok. and GL finding one at a scrap yard =)
thats my next move anyway lol

I've been wondering about the distributor. Haven't tested mine yet though. Yes cars are scarce in the junk yards out here to. When I was checking prices I found some on eBay. You may want to look there too. I'm in the same boat, don't have the money to just keep throwing at it.

LOL I'm getting kinda nervous. This seems like way too common of a problem and I have it.
-Doesn't idle all that great
-smells really rich
-Uses tons of gas
-From idle if I go to WOT the car hesitates @ 1500 rpm for a second then goes to the limiter.
-Cuts out if your cruising(2500 rpm) then go to WOT
-If the engine is in close loop(engine is still cold) it isn't all that noticeable and it actually drives pretty good. But the moment that fast idle stops it goes to s---.
-My CEL has never come on
-My battery light also flickers but only when it is revved.

I have replaced the TPS and VAF with known good ones I have spare. Also a new oem fuel filter. Not a thing had changed.
I'm just starting to get into diagnosing this problem as I have had other issues to deal with. Either tomorrow or Wednesday I will try to pull a CEL code and also I'm going to disconnect the O2 sensors to see if there is a change. Both sensors have been rewired so it wouldn't surprise me if I screwed up there.

I don't mean to take over this thread or anything, Just to help. On that note I don't know If anyone actually answered your question about what side of the engine is the left hand side but from the online manual that seems to be the front o2 sensor.

So I will do some work and hopefully it helps

Do the obvious things first. Clean and reinstall the ground wires. Be absolutely sure that there are no leaks in the intake. Adjust the TPS. Clean the throttle body.

gerald_23 wrote:LOL I'm getting kinda nervous. This seems like way too common of a problem and I have it.
-Doesn't idle all that great
-smells really rich
-Uses tons of gas
-From idle if I go to WOT the car hesitates @ 1500 rpm for a second then goes to the limited.
-Cuts out if your cruising(2500 rpm) then go to WOT
-If the engine is in close loop(engine is still cold) it isn't all that noticeable and it actually drives pretty ok. But the moment that fast idle stops it goes to s---.
-My CEL has never come on
-My battery light also flickers but only when it is revved.

I have replaced the TPS and VAF with known good ones I have spare. Also a new oem fuel filter. Not a thing had changed.
I'm just starting to get into diagnosing this problem as I have had other issues to deal with. Either tomorrow or Wednesday I will try to pull a CEL code and also I'm going to disconnect the O2 sensors to see if there is a change. Both sensors have been rewired so it wouldn't surprise me if I screwed up there.

I don't mean to take over this thread or anything, Just to help. On that note I don't know If anyone actually answered your question about what side of the engine is the left hand side but from the online manual that seems to be the front o2 sensor.

So I will do some work and hopefully it helps

the belts are the "front" of an engine, so left would be towards the front bumper on our cars...

So I pulled some codes at work today and this is what I got

16, 25, 28, 29, 69

I feel like a lottery announcer

but anyways this is what they mean

16-EGR Position Sensor
25-Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid
28-EGR Vacuum Solenoid
29-EGR Vent Solenoid
69-Engine Coolant Temperature Fan Sensor

The EGR codes are there because, well I dont have an EGR on my KLZE lol so I don't think that should be a problem. I dont know if there is a way to get rid of those codes.

So 25 and 69 are my main concerns and they make sense. I have an after market fuel regulator so I think thats why I have code 25.

The wires leading to the engine coolant temperature fan sensor don't look all that promising so that may be the reason for that.

So tomorrow I'm going to check my IAC and TPS adjustment,check that my fuel regulator setup is ok and see what i can do about the wires for that coolant sensor.

I will keep everyone posted

So today and yesterday I did a little work. Still not able to figure out the fuel pressure code. But I have found out some things that may help. My coolant fan code is do to some old wiring so the 2 wires were bare in a spot and touching. Yesterday I did the TPS adjustment but didn't really find a difference. What I did find Is the car is in serious need of some proper grounding. With all the on off of the adjustment it actually made one of my ground wires hot and start to smoke . Not what you want to see after your car has already had a fire. So I have picked up a bunch of different grounding straps and will be doing that next week. Also when brainstorming i had the tps sensor disconnected just to see what happened. The idle fluttered for a moment but was smooth again. I played with the throttle a bit just to see how it would react. them a stomped on the gas an there was not hesitation . I'm not 100 % sure on what that means but I'm going to double check the sensor function and the wire leading to it. Is there a difference throttle position sensor that is suppose to be used with the klze swap or is it the normal k8 one that can be used?

all k series sensors are the same. if you tie into the tps with power going to it and slowly open the throttle the voltage output of the sensor should be a linear smooth rate of increase with the throttle opening. any flat spots or drops means your sensor is bad. its easiest to do it with a lab scope, however you can get accurate readings with a multimeter if you take your time. opening the throttle slowly and trying it multiple times is key here.

AND im back!
haha. i recently purchased a new alternator, i have removed the old one but have not yet installed the new one.
here is my old one. ewwww





So my TPS... my engine is from an automatic mx-3 GS, and my car is a manuel mx-3 GS.. according to my chilton book, i should have this one here, and i have this one here
that said... my book says to use ohms reading while opening the TPS, and it should gradually go up. after my sensor begins to open, like litterally JUST beyond stationary, the ohms reading goes OL(out of range).. so im guessing my TPS is bad, but doesnt throw a code of any kind.
hopefully begining of next week i will beable to install the new alternator. and we will again hopefully be running.

one side note. the day before i got my new alternator and tore my car up. i drove it around the block.. my exhaust smelled very .. burnt.. and it ran like total s---