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ZeroLux wrote:Warm up has never been an issue on my car, that I know of. I don't instantly beat on it from a cold start, and where I live isn't exactly cold right now

I have done a lot of reading the last few days online, starting to think it might be my TPS out of whack. Is it safe enough to disconnect that and give it a test to see if I get the same results? Also, someone mentioned before something about calibrating it... could not find the FAQ on that, anyone know where it is?

I am hoping this is the solution.

AAHHH! Do what SuperK suggested, don't just disconnect this!

Warm up has never been an issue on my car, that I know of. I don't instantly beat on it from a cold start, and where I live isn't exactly cold right now

That you know of! these little cars crave a warm motor. seriously try warming it up extra long. my climate isnt quite "cold" either. we got +30 Celsius and above daily... i still got to warm my car up for a good 10 minutes... THEN drive it nicely for a little bit.

Think I found the problem tonight.

Stopped at a gas station around 11pm, decided to take another look under the hood. Could not find anything out of place, all the fittings are snug, the PCV valve, though not the tightest fitting original part on the car (marked KL0-somethingorother) was in place and not an issue, then I happened to turn my attention to the intake boot again.



Well I'll be damned. How did I miss this before? It was extremely hard to spot, I had to wiggle the pipe around a bit just to get a better view. I am guessing the relations between the intake filter box which is fixed to the body and the throttle body itself being a part of the ever moving engine that the ribs just finally tore loose. Think this is the issue? It's past the MAF sensor and from what you guys were saying before I'd say it sounds like an issue. My assumption is that under heavy loading the engine is bucking back far enough (hello, motor mounts?! guess I'll be checking those soon) to open that gap just wide enough to throw the whole system out of whack, and then of course when I let off the gap isn't as wide so I no longer feel the problem. Ain't that a *****?

So, my question now (well two actually) is this:

1. Will super glue be sufficient enough to seal that crack (even if only for a little while) and...
2. I thought I remember someone mentioning somewhere on the boards before that the intake boot is still an active part number from mazda and is relatively inexpensive (for some reason I have the figure between $36.00 and $38.00 stuck in my head). Anyone know the part number on that or if it's even true? I'd just assume replace it with another factory unit.

* The tear is still very tight when closed, there is no open space at all when the car is at rest. I had to put quite a bit of effort into splitting that apart to get the picture.

ZeroLux wrote: Well I'll be damned. How did I miss this before?/....................../ Think this is the issue? It's past the IAC and from what you guys were saying before I'd say it sounds like an issue./................../ Ain't that a *****?

Ain't it?

Inodoro Pereyra wrote: Besides that, Take a real good look at your accordion tube (take it off the car, wash it (although dirt doesn't seem to be much of a problem in that engine), and look for holes or cracks, especially in the seams). Also make sure all the hoses connected to it are in good shape.

Yeah, we think this is most probably the issue. We (or at least "I") also thought that had already been checked...

ZeroLux wrote:So, my question now (well two actually) is this:

1. Will super glue be sufficient enough to seal that gap (even if only for a little while) and...
2. I thought I remember someone mentioning somewhere on the boards before that the intake boot is still an active part number from mazda and is relatively inexpensive (for some reason I have the figure between $36.00 and $38.00 stuck in my head). Anyone know the part number on that or if it's even true? I'd just assume replace it with another factory unit.

1. No, it probably won't. If you're good with it, you can probably do a good TEMPORARY fix with electrical tape. I did it on my MX-6, and it worked ok.

2. Not a clue, but if you call or go to the dealership. they will tell you the part number right away.

I edited the post shortly after I realized I said "gap". It's not a gap, you would not even see the tear unless you forced it like that. I was thinking some Loctite Ultra Gel might keep it closed for a while, at least long enough to verify this is the issue (not much doubt in my mind).

Car is still a bit warm since I just got home a bit ago, gonna go outside in a few and take the part out to bring in for repair.

Thanks for the suggestion! I thought I had checked over this before when I was going over the basics.

For what it's worth the tear is just after the bend starts going in-to the rib so it's pretty well hidden, almost like the side-wall of a tire, it's not torn on the flat surface of it. If that even makes sense? I don't think I'd be able to get electrical tape in there but it's worth a shot. Maybe a nice coating of super glue topped off with electrical tape could hold for a bit.

Tears are no bueno. but I'm a cynical guy. it won't fix your problem.

I'm with SuperK. I'd bet my a-- it contributes to the problem, but I 100% stand by what cWs306 says about warmup. I'd be dead surprised if that didn't improve the conditions you mention... If I don't warm my car up properly, it will not be pleasant until I've driven for quite a while. Typically I won't shift above 3rd gear until it's warmed up, if I had to leave prematurely.

As for intake... I wouldn't buy from the stealership. Maybe rock-auto, if they have it on the cheaps... If not, this is my suggestion: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=44545

Took the part out a couple hours ago and brought it in. Used some "high durability" Loctite super glue "designed for vibration, high heat, and outdoor conditions" etc and found two more smaller cracks in the process. Sealed them up carefully and was sure to get the glue in the seam and a healthy bead coating on the outside just for some thickness. Applied a small strip of electrical tape to the larger one from the picture after it was glued.

Went back out, reinstalled everything, fired it up- drove like a brand new car again. Completely smooth and perfect which was odd because I had been dealing with this for so long now I had become accustomed to compensating for it acting up. Didn't take long to break me of that habit

Made a few calls to some people I know at local pick n' pulls this morning to see if anyone could scavenge an OEM boot in good condition, checked aftermarket parts stores and nobody can even get in a knockoff replacement part, and not quite ready to go with a full cold air rig yet in a last ditch attempt to keep the car as original as possible (not until I drop a ZE in, which is in the distant future at this point). Found a new Mazda OE part on eBay for about $76 I'm going to keep in mind if nothing else pans out.

Thanks again to everybody that put their $0.02 in on this issue! It's good to know there's such a dedicated group of enthusiasts on the net.

Good to know the problem is gone.
As for the locktite, I'm pretty sure it's not gonna last. I would DEFINITELY go to the dealership for something like that. Even if you find a J/Y accordion tube in perfect shape, it's still gonna be a part that's been in use for at least 15 years, and it's bound to crack on you any time. A new part in this case is well worth the money, at least IMO.

Checked the local dealer about 20 mins ago, they don't have one in stock but are going to order one for me. I thought about that too, any part I find will be as old as the car to begin with and only serve as a temporary fix. Dealer part was $105, which isn't as bad as it could be imho. Supposed to be in by next Wednesday.

If the patch does not hold that long the symptom will be obvious again. I'll switch over to the RX if I have to. Tried to run it last night and found out the battery went dead from sitting

You know... a Acura integra CAI will fit on your car right... ebay.. 30 bucks with a filter. K&n filter at a local auto store is like 30-60 bucks. only part you will need to add on is a 2.5"-3.5" couple for the vaf. oh and a little spout for the vac hose that plugs into the air filter box on your stock system.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1990-1993-ACURA- ... 1c1cf21f63

I have a minty boot you can have for like,,,$30 shipped. the damn shipping will be between 15-20 bucks I'm sure. Just let me know.

Daninski wrote:I have a minty boot you can have for like,,,$30 shipped. the damn shipping will be between 15-20 bucks I'm sure. Just let me know.

Hmm... I wanted to stay stock with it for now... can't beat that deal. Would you mind finding out how much shipping to the 27604 zip code would cost? I'd be interested in that.

EDIT: Yeah. Can you tell I've been awake all night? Just re-read that message. I'm an idiot. $30 shipped you say?