My last minute checklist.. am I missing anything?

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Ok gotcha! What exactly is the guide? I know the valve stem is the long part.. but lol.. yeah...

and should I get like.. a towel or cloth to just remove it?

and that's what I always do when working with multiple things.. I take one out and replace it, then go to the next one to avoid messing crap up..

[Inodoro Pereyra]

The guide is the tube the valve stem slides in. Any compound getting in there will grind down that tube, which will effectively be like adding lots of miles to the engine (or at least to that guide).

Paper towels, and plenty of gasoline.

Dark_Rider: forgive me, but, I'm getting the distinct impression that you're getting in way over your head...

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Well in a way.. I am.. I mean a lot of this is new to me.. but at the same time.. I am making sure that I do not screw anything up.. so yeah...

and don't get me wrong.. I'm not a complete n00b... I do understand a lot of engine mechanics.. and know how do to work outside of an engine/tranny.. but this is literally the first time I've ripped open an engine and worked on it... it's new territory for me..

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Ok. New territory is good... It's the way we learn.
Just as long as you're careful...

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Ok. New territory is good... It's the way we learn.
Just as long as you're careful...

Oh yeah... I'm being extremely careful.. you can count on that

[wytbishop]

Get a box of Ziplock sandwich bags and a sharpie. Bag everything and label it. Every nut and bolt you remove. It's the best way to stay organized. Don't rely on your memory to adentify where things came from. If you remove a part, like the water pump for example, with bolts which are of different lengths, take a piece of cardboard and trace the shape of the part on it and poke the bolts through in the position where they go so you don't put a long bolt in a shallow hole and break something.

Little tricks that may help you.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Get a box of Ziplock sandwich bags and a sharpie. Bag everything and label it. Every nut and bolt you remove. It's the best way to stay organized. Don't rely on your memory to adentify where things came from. If you remove a part, like the water pump for example, with bolts which are of different lengths, take a piece of cardboard and trace the shape of the part on it and poke the bolts through in the position where they go so you don't put a long bolt in a shallow hole and break something.

Little tricks that may help you.

that's funny you mentioned that because I did that. I have my header/heat shield bolts in 1, intake manifold in another, etc... The only thing I didn't do was the cardboard trick, which now that i know, will be done.

[SuperK]

Did you purchase all your stuff?

that cylinder head gasket set is WAY too expensive.

Rock Products offers an AMAZING quality head rebuild set which includes your valve stem seals, valve cover gasket, distributor o ring, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, awesome head gasket, camshaft seals. and believe me, they're top quality, they're amazing. also something like 150-180. Also they offer premium chrome moly piston rings that ROCK (get it?) for a great price!
here's my B6 rebuild checklist when I did mine:

Head rebuild set
HLA's (you doing those?)
Front and rear main seal (didn't get to the rear unfortunately)
all belts, upper, lower rad hose
Timing and idler tensioner (replacing those?)
oil pan gasket ends (they're little small things)
I also upgraded my alternator to the 90a
cleaned fuel injectors (send them off to somewhere like witchunterperformance)
engine and tranny mounts
Connecting rod bearings
thermostat, water pump
fuel filter
o2 sensor
pcv valve
oil, coolant, fluids

Dark, if you'd like, I can get a price on all the engine internals, as Rock Products only deals with machine and head shops who have an account with them.

If you'd like, i can call up my favorite machine shop and get a price on the engine internal components, which I promise you are amazing quality and half as cheap as rockauto on average.

Let me know if this is something you'd like me to do for you.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

If you can get me parts for cheaper, I'd appreciate it and compensate you!

But I've been talking to IP a lot more, and have some reading to do.. and I am leaning towards a larger build.. I'll hit it up with PB Blaster and wrap the engine up to keep it good.. and start acquiring parts...

But yeah I thought the gasket set was expensive..

So yeah if you can get me a head rebuild set, rings, and yeah.. really all the engine internals.. get me some prices so I can figure out what I'm doing. some of my money today is going to Ryan for the parts he got me, but the leftover money I can use to try and get some parts off you..

Though I recently (as in.. 2 months ago) replaced the fuel filter (if you think i should replace it anyways i can...), o2 Sensor, and Coolant Temp. sensor

A lot of the stuff you listed here I was going to replace but forgot to write down (and some I have written down already). mainly belts, upper/lower rad. hose, timing and idler tensioner, Alternator upgrade (got my V6 alt all ready), engine/tranny mounts, thermostat, water pump, pcv valve, and all fluids.

As for the rest, I can easily add them to my list (which I will do now).

So yeah if you can get me prices I'd appreciate it. Then I can update my "shopping list" and see what I want.

[Inodoro Pereyra]

But I've been talking to IP a lot more, and have some reading to do.. and I am leaning towards a larger build.. I'll hit it up with PB Blaster and wrap the engine up to keep it good..

Uh-Uhhh...
No siree... I never said PB blaster. I said WD-40.

PB Blaster has aromatic hydrocarbons and petroleum distillates which may gunk up over time, and a surfactant which may attract moisture. WD-40 is a known moisture repellent.

Use WD-40. Good for everything but the salad...

[Dark_Rider2k3]

But I've been talking to IP a lot more, and have some reading to do.. and I am leaning towards a larger build.. I'll hit it up with PB Blaster and wrap the engine up to keep it good..

Uh-Uhhh...
No siree... I never said PB blaster. I said WD-40.

PB Blaster has aromatic hydrocarbons and petroleum distillates which may gunk up over time, and a surfactant which may attract moisture. WD-40 is a known moisture repellent.

Use WD-40. Good for everything but the salad...

Oh whoops! I meant to put that. I was thinkin pb blaster because i was using it for some work today..and mixed them up.

My bad!

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Don't worry. As long as you use the right one...
I just don't know if the PB Blaster can have any undesirable long time effect. Maybe it won't, but better safe than sorry...

[SuperK]

OK, so rough prices,

piston ring set - 50
rod bearings - 15
timing belt kit - tensioner, idler, belt - 50
water pump - 30
oil pump - 120
head gasket set - valve seals, camshaft seals, disty o ring, 2 layerd mls head gasket (all gaskets and seals from the head up) - 100
lower gasket set - oil pan, front and rear seals, (all gaskets and seals below top of block) - 30
HLA's - 10/each

that's not exact prices, but a rough mockup.
The brands are Preferred Components for bearings, ITM and Rock Products for everything else.

Also there are rod bearings and there are also main bearings. main bearings are about 30

So roughly around 400 for all the above

[Dark_Rider2k3]

wow that is a heck of a lot cheaper .

Let me get some stuff figured out tomorrow (it's 1 AM and i'm dead tired) and I'll PM ya

[garren1138]

Ya If I knew what I know now the swap wouldn't be so bad it's just hard to find 4WD parts and I'm having issues with the oil and water mixing in the engine

Okay that makes sense. But speaking of, was it hard to do the harness swap? Did you have to rip out the entire dash to get to it all?

I had to pull the whole dash but it's not as hard as you would think and I've done it once before that for a heater core so it was no biggie