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Some new shots after UK glass headlamps were installed

Looks good

those lights would look sick painted black on your black car

Mooneggs wrote:those lights would look sick painted black on your black car

x2

Today I put on my euro front bumper cover (thanks SuperK), wanted to also install the OEM yellow fogs but with the USDM bumper support it was not an easy go. I will wait until I get a Euro bumper support + tow hook and install the fogs at a later time.





Since the Euro bumper cover doesn't have side indicators, I went ahead and opened up the second space inside our front signal lights with a dremel (the outline is there just have to cut it out). After this I put the unused side indicator bulb and fastened it in the turn signal and voila!...

It's looking great!
Would you mind if I used that 1st picture for an example of the slim visors?

fowljesse wrote:It's looking great!
Would you mind if I used that 1st picture for an example of the slim visors?

Not at all sir!

quick question...what ARE those tail lamps called? Are they some upgraded Altezzas or something?

SteeleMX3 wrote:quick question...what ARE those tail lamps called? Are they some upgraded Altezzas or something?

Looks like stock with taped off circles and black paint overtop...

So I've spent the last few days getting my 1.6 SOHC ready to be pulled, removed the battery, intake, unplugged all electrical connections, drained coolant removed the hoses, pulled the fuel lines and vacuum lines, disconnected the ATX wiring, went inside removed the ATX shifter and B6 ECU.

Yesterday got a BP engine from a 93 ATX Protege LX with 77k miles! $250 delivered, spent the day today cleaning it up and getting it ready to swap in. I replaced the disty cap + rotor, NGK platinum plugs/ NGK wires, changed the fuel filter in my MX-3. I will change the WP and timing belt, have accessory belts, also have the thermostat and gasket ready to put on. I plan on doing the VC gasket and painting the VC since it looks like crap (at least it says Mazda), PCV valve, replace radiator hoses also.
Here's what it looked like when I got it...

After cleaning up and new parts...


I am waiting on the G-series MTX and all other tranny swap parts (will soon be buying clutch kit with pilot and throw out bearing, CS SS clutch line) and my friend with his engine hoist and knowledge (this is my first swap, he has done many in his boosted miata).

I have a couple question:

1. Just to review I have a 1.6 SOHC ATX swaping --to-> 1.8 BP (from ATX car) and G-series MTX from BP (Need to get still). I know I need a BP ECU but do I need one from an MTX (which I will have) or is an ATX better (what my original wiring is...). How will I know if I eBay one... I see ones that say BP10 is that what I want?

2. I also know my BP TPS is 4 wire just like my b6 so my harness will hook right up... is this fine to leave as it is? I've read but have not been able to answer this completely.

Any other advice is welcome, I can't wait to get my MX-3 back on the road and am a bit intimidated by the magnitude of complete engine and tranny swap, but I have faith every time I look at my car

Alright.

I have not done this exact swap, but I have done a B6-> BP and I have done an ATX K8 -> MTX KL.

First of all, while your bay is empty, check to make sure the fuel rail line connectors are the same. If they are not, get the Mazda BP connector becaues it has the extra pin for VICS. Wire it in place of the old connector on the harness side, and run the VICS wire down to the ECM and into the pin it needs. This is the cleanest and best way to do it. It should be a no brainer job, the colours should line up, but if not, I'm sure John could help you (Dark_Rider2k3).


Now you should wire the P/N switch into the clutch switch, so the car only starts with the clutch depressed (or when the car thinks it is in park or neutral)

Now that the bay is empty, find the main ATX plug, IIRC it is 6 pin. Check my colours, but one side is 12V (B/Y) and the other is the P/N switch (R/Y on a KL). run each of those to the clutch switch (normally open) so when you depress the clutch (switch closed) it completes the circuit, car thinks its in park, and it will start.

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... /Z-088.gif

That should help you. I don't recall which one is the P/N switch, I don't think its listed on that connector... there is no obvious P or N. try process of elimination, I suspect it is S you want.

An option here is to wire the neutral switch on the MTX in parallel to this. The benefit of this is you can start it without the clutch if it is NOT in gear. (neutral switch is closed in neutral, open in gear)
You need to wire 12v to one side of the switch (take from the P/N switch 12v) and then run the other leg to the clutch switch (you can wire this leg into the signal side of the P/N switch, no problem).

Next up is reverse. You need to use both ATX plugs for this, IIRC, one has the 12v you need, the other has the signal.
B/Y 12v, R/G reverse signal.

Wire each of those to each leg of the reverse switch on the trans.

If your TPS is the same, great. If not, you'd need a new TB, you can't just mix up wires and let it work, it won't. Tried it.

As far as ECM's go... I'm not too sure. A safe bet would to get an ATX BP ecm, but I think an MTX would plug in too. look on Club Protege, they usually have everything a BP swapper could want for a sweet price. BP10 is ATX, BP09 is MTX, IIRC.

Got to painting the valve cover this weekend, will change the VC gasket once it's fully dried and I put it back on

Beat Valve cover...

After degreasing...

After paint stripping...

After Sanding...

After Suplicolor Semi-gloss engine enamel + clear coat...

Installed...


Have a G-series MTX w/ shift linkage, MTX pedals, intermediate shaft, tranny mounts, new clutch master/slave cylinders, new exedy clutch kit/flywheel, clutch line, new axles... few more parts to buy and should be able to drop it in

Jovian2k wrote: 1. Just to review I have a 1.6 SOHC ATX swaping --to-> 1.8 BP (from ATX car) and G-series MTX from BP (Need to get still). I know I need a BP ECU but do I need one from an MTX (which I will have) or is an ATX better (what my original wiring is...). How will I know if I eBay one... I see ones that say BP10 is that what I want?

IIRC BP10 is ATX and BP09 is MTX, i have a BP09 ECU i can sell you if your interested

Jovian2k wrote: 1. Just to review I have a 1.6 SOHC ATX swaping --to-> 1.8 BP (from ATX car) and G-series MTX from BP (Need to get still). I know I need a BP ECU but do I need one from an MTX (which I will have) or is an ATX better (what my original wiring is...). How will I know if I eBay one... I see ones that say BP10 is that what I want?

2. I also know my BP TPS is 4 wire just like my b6 so my harness will hook right up... is this fine to leave as it is? I've read but have not been able to answer this completely.

You can use either BP10 (ATX) or BP09 (MTX) ecu. I would probably look for a BP09.

The 4 wire TPS is better for GTX. Im unsure of the benefits running N/A. I've heard it gives better MPG and helps smooth out the throttle.
- http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=30034

Pulled the B6/ATX today, so excited to get the BP in soon and finish this swap up... can't wait.