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Try a pipe on the end of your breaker bar.

When I put use a breaker bar, with a jack stand under the wheel bolts to keep the wheel from turning, the leverage lifts up the car instead of turning the bolt. Suggestions welcome. Otherwise I guess I'll have to try removing the spindle from the strut.

Have someone stomp on the brakes while you safely step on the breaker bar with extension. You have safety glasses on, right?

And read my (and other's) tricks and tips:

http://mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=514586#p514586

I ordered this monster:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200382234
with a 3/4 drive 32mm socket

as well as a 4ft metal pole from Ace Hardware, with a diameter large enough to slip over the handle.

I previously had a 1/2in breaker bar from Harbor Freight... and after my 3rd one breaking with no luck... decided this was a good investment

I kept the tire on, lowered the car to the floor, put a brick in front and back of the rear tire so the car doesn't roll the direction I'm pulling on, then have at the axle bolt.
there were times I was convinced something was going to catastrophically break... but alls that happened is that satisfying metal clank as the axle bolt loosened up.

Whoa! That 3/4" drive breaker bar from Northern Tools makes me want to stop there on my way home from work just to have one for my tool collection. It's nearly 4 ft. of leverage without any additional pipe. I usually resort to a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 4 ft. pipe on it for the extra leverage - managed to break one breaker bar that way.

The best tip though is to do as SuperK suggests: put the wheel back on with the center cap off and lower it to the ground. Add brakes if needed. It will be much safer and effective if the car is on the ground to break the axle nut free.

davmac, lemme tell ya, that breaker bar is fantastic. cost to convenience ratio is way in favor of convenience

FWIW, a $20 Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar and a 5' pipe of similar dimensions to the breaker(i.e. little wiggle room between the two) is sufficient for any job, assuming you weren't lazy enough to use an impact wrench to install axle nuts.

With enough leverage, you won't need to "bounce" the bar, and any QUALITY 1/2" breaker will be up to the task.

SuperK, it's been nearly a year since I set out to replace the engine -- not that I've been working on it for all that time; until recently, the car sat and waited. Now the old engine is out, the KLZE is in, and we've run into a surprising snag: The old AC compressor doesn't bolt onto the new engine. I had figured on not having to unhook the AC (and avoid polluting the atmosphere with the freon, and then having to replace it). Am I doing something wrong? Or do I just have to suck it up again and swap in the new compressor for the old one and recharge the AC system?
I have to say, by the way: I should have taken you up on your offer, towed the car and the new engine down to Tennessee, and spent a weekend trying not to get in your way while we did the swap.
-- Jeff

We could've had a party at SuperK's house. My brother and I would towed ours over as well! Maybe someone should open a shop

As for the cursed a/c systems in these k series, which are you referring to as old and new? And if I remember correctly, there is a bracket that goes on first? Any correction there?

I have the AC compressor from the K8 engine, still hooked up to the AC system but unable to bolt onto the KLZE engine because the bolts don't line up with the holes.

Then I have the AC compressor that came with the KLZE, so of course the holes line up perfectly, but of course I'd rather not have to substitute it for the compressor that's already hooked up.

Ok there are a few options.

Number one: mill up a custom bracket. (coolest option. You'd have an uncommon mod)

Number two: swap compressors. If your k8 compressor is still attached to all the lines then yes, you'll have to properly drain/relieve/remove and replace and recharge (option I'd go with if my milling guy was out of town. Easiest option.)

Number three: remove all a/c parts and free those pony's belted to that pully Not my favorite. But... You know...

you have to use the AC compressor from the K8. I am not sure why you're having issues with them lining up.
You may need to use the bracket off the K8 engine, but everything bolts up plug and play. no custom anything needed.

The brackets! Yes, they look right. That should work. (In the waning light yesterday, I didn't even see that they were brackets instead of cast parts of the engine.)

Ahh... I was thinking he didn't have the k8 bracket. Sorry..