Ryan's Final Build

[Inodoro Pereyra]

You can always minimize the machine work needed. You can balance the rods, and pistons. A 1 ton mechanical press is just a few bucks on HF, same as a 0-500g digital scale with .1g sensitivity. Main bearing line honing is most of the times not necessary, providing the block hasn't been overheated. Even the decking can be done by hand, if you know how to, and are willing to spend the (very long) time needed.

That leaves you with only the head work. That could be also don by hand, but requires some special tools to cut the valve seats, so for a single engine it may make sense to just take it to a shop. And then, the ONLY job that, to my knowledge, can't be done at home: the crankshaft balancing.

[Ryan]

I have access to a scientific scale with a 0.001 g resolution. Dairy farming family -> milk samples.

I don't have money or, more importantly, space, for a press. a few bucks? Either you stole it, or you're on crack. Also, I live in a different country than you, s--- is 4/3 the price up here at the very least... I'd rather have a hydraulic jack anyway.

I think decking by hand is ridiculous. Thats like saying a circular saw makes just as straight a cut as a table saw if you take your time. Do you understand that these processes are done down to a few thou of an inch? You can't even see that with your eyeballs, how do you expect do do a 8"x16" surface within a few thou?


Okay, Inodoro, I'd agree its all POSSIBLE, but its not anywhere near practical.

[Inodoro Pereyra]

There you go. You already saved on the scale.

No, I didn't steal it, and I'm not on crack.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbo ... -3552.html

Now tell me you don't have room for this puppy. And tell me you don't have the money. When it's on sale, it's normally 25 to 30 bucks.

Decking by hand is difficult, but, when done properly, it's actually more accurate than machine decking. That's why it's still the method of choice of most race teams around the world, especially in amateur racing, where money is usually very tight. But even in high end racing (like, for example, in Formula 1) engines are machine decked and then hand finished to get them up to specs.

And no, yo don't do it with your eyeballs, you need very accurate measuring tools, jigs and other equipment.
It's difficult to do, it's probably THE most tedious work you can do on an engine, but if you do it properly, the results are often impressive.

[Ryan]

Meh, aluminum bends enough to suit my needs.

And we don't have HF up here.

On a note related to tedious...

[solo_ryder]

Meh, aluminum bends enough to suit my needs.

And we don't have HF up here.

On a note related to tedious...

What you use to strip it down like this? I did this with my current mani and it was a biotch. However, if you polish or paint it now it would be worth it.

If I do my straight neck I have in the future... What tools did you use?

[Ryan]

Lots of time.
safety goggles, maybe hearing protection
coveralls
a place you can get covered in aluminum oxide dust.

first I used an angle grinder with a grinding disc. Be careful because it loves to bite aluminum and throw it at you. I bled a little when that extra little VICS passage went for a ride. That was just to get down the casting marks.

next stage is angle grinder with a "flapwheel" style disc...



Honestly those give me the best finish. Wide path, and you can use just a little pressure, and there's still a decent sense of accomplishment. The pic of the manifold isn't the finish you get with that, you get a much better one with this type of disc.

Dremel sanding drums are next to useless. But the little 1" diameter cutting wheels @ 30k RPM help get into the tight spots to get the rest of the casting marks. All stones will clog, cheap carbides are too slow and clog.

If you can find such, I'd suggest this:



And the greatest trick of all... Don't waste your time on parts of the manifold people will never see. Only go a little ways underneath, and don't do much of the back at all.


Edit, here was my armory.

[Ryan]

[MrMazda92]

Very clean Ryan, well done.

I'll be going through the same nightmare when I can source a G4 mani...

[Ryan]

And a question... there is one 1/8" vac line unaccounted for.

[chrome730]

ryan it looks amazing. are u gonna keep it like that or paint it?

[solo_ryder]

It is painted.

Looks badass

[chrome730]

lol my eyes are gettin worse lol. thanks for the correction.

[Ryan]

I painted it aluminum coloured.... because it looks better than the stock splotchy aluminum, and it won't show badly if I chip/scratch it when I'm working on/around it.

Any hints on that last vac nipple? There's also 3 big ports... one is blocked off (on VRIS tube) one is brake booster, and one is... mystery?
I don't even know if this is a JDM, CDM, or USDM manifold.

[marcdh]

3 big ports are to cater for variances in LHD and RHD brake booster location I believe. I have brake booster, PCV hose, one blocked and another to megasquirt. Good job on the manifold, I remember the hand cramps from polishing mine

[Ryan]

Look like $465 to you?

Better be worth it...

I just went through it, and for the price, I'm not happy. It doesn't have any of the other gaskets, a few off the top of my head:

throttle body
IAC
VRIS runner O ring and gasket
Injectors
Oil squirters (although it does have drain bolt)
freeze plugs

I only paid 402 for the kit + shipping to Canada (still a lot)

and then another 60 in brokerage/border fees. Stupid customs.

Oh well, at least it wasn't money I worked for. (guilty feeling divorced father)