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_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:Since when did the discussion switch over to other cars? I thought we were talking about the MX-3 here. Good for you for having a few examples. You pretty much listed cars that are track-built or have rebuilt engines, both of which don't apply to our discussion. You still haven't shown me some numbers. Once you show me your oil pressure is within specs using 10W-40 or 15W-40 I'll shut up.
I'm simply trying to point out what you're missing, which is that the oil worked for his application. I can't think of a single reason he should have to put extra sensors and gauges in his car. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, he'll learn from it and put in a new engine. Either way, it's nothing worth fighting online over._-Night-Shade-_ wrote: And other guy. Sure 15W-40 probably worked for you because it sounds like your car was eating oil faster than fuel. No brainer. The proper thing to do would be to rebuild the engine as clearly something is up. That's why it seemed better with the 15W-40 but in fact the small moving parts of the engine were getting starved because the oil would never thin out enough to provide proper lubrication. Again, prove me wrong by hooking up an oil temp & pressure gauge. I GUARANTEE you that your oil pressure will be WAY TOO HIGH running 15W-40.
Oh and just to add on since it seems like the oil knowledge on here is next to nil:
0W-30
5W-30
10W-30
They're all the same viscosity at operating temperature so I'm not sure why you'd think 0W and 5W are too thin in warm temperatures.
lol. only if u make clouds of smoke no one can see through coming out of your exhaust.MrMazda92 wrote:On a side note; If you don't like me running 10w30 in my car, you're welcome to do my changes for me.
do you use mineral in summer cause its cheaper? I read an article in an old book at the university about how older motor oils got rid of a really great anti-wear additive. I need to find the name. It could be phosphorus based. It used to about 7800ppm in oils But, it ruins catalytic convertors. Government madated that cat's last 160,000km so to counter this almost all motor oil companies lowered this additive down to about 900ppm. Older cars were lasting about 500,000km according to my dad and his friends he always told me and this started to make sense after I read this paper. Book was from around 1991. It still in effect today, removal of almost all the additive in mineral oils. If you search online, you can find that mobil, and shell retain about 5000ppm of this old additive which is huge in anti wear for the engine.Ryan wrote:I try to use 5W 30 all year, and we see temps from -40 to +40 C (-40 to 100 F)
Synthetic in winter, mineral in summer... mineral has an waxing problem in weather that cold.
I'm not missing anything. Don't try to make it look like something it's not. You see, it DIDN'T work for his application, unless your application is driving with an improperly operating engine and you use thicker oil to compensate. Two wrongs don't make a right. For MX-3s, the best oil is (X)W-30 with X being the smaller the better. Synthetic is better than dino. It's that simple.MrMazda92 wrote:_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:Since when did the discussion switch over to other cars? I thought we were talking about the MX-3 here. Good for you for having a few examples. You pretty much listed cars that are track-built or have rebuilt engines, both of which don't apply to our discussion. You still haven't shown me some numbers. Once you show me your oil pressure is within specs using 10W-40 or 15W-40 I'll shut up.
Since way before you wrote the following:
I'm simply trying to point out what you're missing, which is that the oil worked for his application. I can't think of a single reason he should have to put extra sensors and gauges in his car. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, he'll learn from it and put in a new engine. Either way, it's nothing worth fighting online over._-Night-Shade-_ wrote: And other guy. Sure 15W-40 probably worked for you because it sounds like your car was eating oil faster than fuel. No brainer. The proper thing to do would be to rebuild the engine as clearly something is up. That's why it seemed better with the 15W-40 but in fact the small moving parts of the engine were getting starved because the oil would never thin out enough to provide proper lubrication. Again, prove me wrong by hooking up an oil temp & pressure gauge. I GUARANTEE you that your oil pressure will be WAY TOO HIGH running 15W-40.
Oh and just to add on since it seems like the oil knowledge on here is next to nil:
0W-30
5W-30
10W-30
They're all the same viscosity at operating temperature so I'm not sure why you'd think 0W and 5W are too thin in warm temperatures.
It's zinc that they got rid of in oil. You can still get in in certain oil (valvoline VR1) My buddy always buys it for his Charger. Old engines do need it for lubrication of internal parts and solid lifters depend on it.mikeetown wrote:do you use mineral in summer cause its cheaper? I read an article in an old book at the university about how older motor oils got rid of a really great anti-wear additive. I need to find the name. It could be phosphorus based. It used to about 7800ppm in oils But, it ruins catalytic convertors. Government madated that cat's last 160,000km so to counter this almost all motor oil companies lowered this additive down to about 900ppm. Older cars were lasting about 500,000km according to my dad and his friends he always told me and this started to make sense after I read this paper. Book was from around 1991. It still in effect today, removal of almost all the additive in mineral oils. If you search online, you can find that mobil, and shell retain about 5000ppm of this old additive which is huge in anti wear for the engine.Ryan wrote:I try to use 5W 30 all year, and we see temps from -40 to +40 C (-40 to 100 F)
Synthetic in winter, mineral in summer... mineral has an waxing problem in weather that cold.
It makes sense to get rid of this additive for emissions and replace the additive with others but this is the best one still apparently for your drivetrain. I know guy who own munro heads in kelowna and he was the first person to introduce the topic to me randomly over a donut lol.
I dont know if people find this interesting. If you have no cat, use mobil mineral oil or shell (whichever is cheaper) cause it probably a little better than the rest regardless of the sm. Mobil and shell are apparently not part of some government program which is why they still use the additive.
I think is only applies to oils like 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40, 5w-40?? and so on.
If I come across the paper again when i'm bored maybe i'll scan it cite it in MLA for you guys.
Removing ego from the question, it was a simple misunderstanding. You don't agree, that doesn't mean it's wrong. If you don't like it, don't reply. You don't need to patronize me to make up for whatever is lacking in your day, I haven't wronged you in any way. As for his oil; it worked just how he wanted it to, which is all anyone can reasonably ask for._-Night-Shade-_ wrote: I'm not missing anything. Don't try to make it look like something it's not. You see, it DIDN'T work for his application, unless your application is driving with an improperly operating engine and you use thicker oil to compensate. Two wrongs don't make a right. For MX-3s, the best oil is (X)W-30 with X being the smaller the better. Synthetic is better than dino. It's that simple.
Take your own advice. And if you're disagreeing with facts, then yes, it IS wrong.MrMazda92 wrote:You don't agree, that doesn't mean it's wrong. If you don't like it, don't reply.
_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:if you're disagreeing with facts, then yes, it IS wrong.
You contradicted yourself countless times in your ramblings._-Night-Shade-_ wrote:Take your own advice. And if you're disagreeing with facts, then yes, it IS wrong.MrMazda92 wrote:You don't agree, that doesn't mean it's wrong. If you don't like it, don't reply.
I am here to learn and to share what I have learned, not to read your psychobabble internet ego trip. If you have a problem with my posts, that's wonderful. Don't try to pass off your diatribes as fact, when they simply aren't.