motor oil for summer season

[_-Night-Shade-_]

Since when did the discussion switch over to other cars? I thought we were talking about the MX-3 here. Good for you for having a few examples. You pretty much listed cars that are track-built or have rebuilt engines, both of which don't apply to our discussion. You still haven't shown me some numbers. Once you show me your oil pressure is within specs using 10W-40 or 15W-40 I'll shut up.

[MrMazda92]

Since when did the discussion switch over to other cars? I thought we were talking about the MX-3 here. Good for you for having a few examples. You pretty much listed cars that are track-built or have rebuilt engines, both of which don't apply to our discussion. You still haven't shown me some numbers. Once you show me your oil pressure is within specs using 10W-40 or 15W-40 I'll shut up.

Since way before you wrote the following:

And other guy. Sure 15W-40 probably worked for you because it sounds like your car was eating oil faster than fuel. No brainer. The proper thing to do would be to rebuild the engine as clearly something is up. That's why it seemed better with the 15W-40 but in fact the small moving parts of the engine were getting starved because the oil would never thin out enough to provide proper lubrication. Again, prove me wrong by hooking up an oil temp & pressure gauge. I GUARANTEE you that your oil pressure will be WAY TOO HIGH running 15W-40.

Oh and just to add on since it seems like the oil knowledge on here is next to nil:
0W-30
5W-30
10W-30
They're all the same viscosity at operating temperature so I'm not sure why you'd think 0W and 5W are too thin in warm temperatures.

I'm simply trying to point out what you're missing, which is that the oil worked for his application. I can't think of a single reason he should have to put extra sensors and gauges in his car. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, he'll learn from it and put in a new engine. Either way, it's nothing worth fighting online over.

[MrMazda92]

On a side note; If you don't like me running 10w30 in my car, you're welcome to do my changes for me.

[Daninski]

Personally I think this entire thread was a waste of time and space. Sorry I ever commented.

[RX8SE3P]

Hmmmm reading up on the oil bible site and other informed places I think I will CHANGE MY OPINION! Yep, first time you may have seen this on the internets but it has happened. Mark this as a marvelous day to be remembered.

The full synthetic good stuff today can resist the heat just fine and the engine bay heat should not exceed a certain point, so summer shouldn't hurt it much more. Just don't touch the intake manifold in summer....

Seems the cold is the only thing that can have big effects on the oil (start up wear) as stated. So 5W30 sounds good. I reckon that weight in Mobil 1 variety may be a good idea for next fill. Currently on 10W30 castrol mineral till it's run in more.

BUT the one thing to note, use what works best for you. When my ZE was burning oil badly before rebuilding, 15W40 was a nice cheap oil to use since it burnt so damn much

[mikeetown]

On a side note; If you don't like me running 10w30 in my car, you're welcome to do my changes for me.

lol. only if u make clouds of smoke no one can see through coming out of your exhaust.

[Ryan]

I try to use 5W 30 all year, and we see temps from -40 to +40 C (-40 to 100 F)

Synthetic in winter, mineral in summer... mineral has an waxing problem in weather that cold.

[mikeetown]

I try to use 5W 30 all year, and we see temps from -40 to +40 C (-40 to 100 F)

Synthetic in winter, mineral in summer... mineral has an waxing problem in weather that cold.

do you use mineral in summer cause its cheaper? I read an article in an old book at the university about how older motor oils got rid of a really great anti-wear additive. I need to find the name. It could be phosphorus based. It used to about 7800ppm in oils But, it ruins catalytic convertors. Government madated that cat's last 160,000km so to counter this almost all motor oil companies lowered this additive down to about 900ppm. Older cars were lasting about 500,000km according to my dad and his friends he always told me and this started to make sense after I read this paper. Book was from around 1991. It still in effect today, removal of almost all the additive in mineral oils. If you search online, you can find that mobil, and shell retain about 5000ppm of this old additive which is huge in anti wear for the engine.

It makes sense to get rid of this additive for emissions and replace the additive with others but this is the best one still apparently for your drivetrain. I know guy who own munro heads in kelowna and he was the first person to introduce the topic to me randomly over a donut lol.

I dont know if people find this interesting. If you have no cat, use mobil mineral oil or shell (whichever is cheaper) cause it probably a little better than the rest regardless of the sm. Mobil and shell are apparently not part of some government program which is why they still use the additive.

I think is only applies to oils like 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40, 5w-40?? and so on.

If I come across the paper again when i'm bored maybe i'll scan it cite it in MLA for you guys.

[_-Night-Shade-_]

Since when did the discussion switch over to other cars? I thought we were talking about the MX-3 here. Good for you for having a few examples. You pretty much listed cars that are track-built or have rebuilt engines, both of which don't apply to our discussion. You still haven't shown me some numbers. Once you show me your oil pressure is within specs using 10W-40 or 15W-40 I'll shut up.

Since way before you wrote the following:

And other guy. Sure 15W-40 probably worked for you because it sounds like your car was eating oil faster than fuel. No brainer. The proper thing to do would be to rebuild the engine as clearly something is up. That's why it seemed better with the 15W-40 but in fact the small moving parts of the engine were getting starved because the oil would never thin out enough to provide proper lubrication. Again, prove me wrong by hooking up an oil temp & pressure gauge. I GUARANTEE you that your oil pressure will be WAY TOO HIGH running 15W-40.

Oh and just to add on since it seems like the oil knowledge on here is next to nil:
0W-30
5W-30
10W-30
They're all the same viscosity at operating temperature so I'm not sure why you'd think 0W and 5W are too thin in warm temperatures.

I'm simply trying to point out what you're missing, which is that the oil worked for his application. I can't think of a single reason he should have to put extra sensors and gauges in his car. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, he'll learn from it and put in a new engine. Either way, it's nothing worth fighting online over.

I'm not missing anything. Don't try to make it look like something it's not. You see, it DIDN'T work for his application, unless your application is driving with an improperly operating engine and you use thicker oil to compensate. Two wrongs don't make a right. For MX-3s, the best oil is (X)W-30 with X being the smaller the better. Synthetic is better than dino. It's that simple.

[solo_ryder]

Hey Mikeetown, you know any of the dirft union guys? Sounds like you may have gone to some of the d-days or something

[mitmaks]

I try to use 5W 30 all year, and we see temps from -40 to +40 C (-40 to 100 F)

Synthetic in winter, mineral in summer... mineral has an waxing problem in weather that cold.

do you use mineral in summer cause its cheaper? I read an article in an old book at the university about how older motor oils got rid of a really great anti-wear additive. I need to find the name. It could be phosphorus based. It used to about 7800ppm in oils But, it ruins catalytic convertors. Government madated that cat's last 160,000km so to counter this almost all motor oil companies lowered this additive down to about 900ppm. Older cars were lasting about 500,000km according to my dad and his friends he always told me and this started to make sense after I read this paper. Book was from around 1991. It still in effect today, removal of almost all the additive in mineral oils. If you search online, you can find that mobil, and shell retain about 5000ppm of this old additive which is huge in anti wear for the engine.

It makes sense to get rid of this additive for emissions and replace the additive with others but this is the best one still apparently for your drivetrain. I know guy who own munro heads in kelowna and he was the first person to introduce the topic to me randomly over a donut lol.

I dont know if people find this interesting. If you have no cat, use mobil mineral oil or shell (whichever is cheaper) cause it probably a little better than the rest regardless of the sm. Mobil and shell are apparently not part of some government program which is why they still use the additive.

I think is only applies to oils like 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40, 5w-40?? and so on.

If I come across the paper again when i'm bored maybe i'll scan it cite it in MLA for you guys.

It's zinc that they got rid of in oil. You can still get in in certain oil (valvoline VR1) My buddy always buys it for his Charger. Old engines do need it for lubrication of internal parts and solid lifters depend on it.
Some diesel oils had it but EPA is being a b---- so they've lowered it also. That's why you used to see engine builders break in new engines with diesel motor oil.
http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[MrMazda92]

I'm not missing anything. Don't try to make it look like something it's not. You see, it DIDN'T work for his application, unless your application is driving with an improperly operating engine and you use thicker oil to compensate. Two wrongs don't make a right. For MX-3s, the best oil is (X)W-30 with X being the smaller the better. Synthetic is better than dino. It's that simple.

Removing ego from the question, it was a simple misunderstanding. You don't agree, that doesn't mean it's wrong. If you don't like it, don't reply. You don't need to patronize me to make up for whatever is lacking in your day, I haven't wronged you in any way. As for his oil; it worked just how he wanted it to, which is all anyone can reasonably ask for.

[_-Night-Shade-_]

You don't agree, that doesn't mean it's wrong. If you don't like it, don't reply.

Take your own advice. And if you're disagreeing with facts, then yes, it IS wrong.

[Nd4SpdSe]

if you're disagreeing with facts, then yes, it IS wrong.

[MrMazda92]

You don't agree, that doesn't mean it's wrong. If you don't like it, don't reply.

Take your own advice. And if you're disagreeing with facts, then yes, it IS wrong.

You contradicted yourself countless times in your ramblings.

Do me a favor, and kiss my a--. I am here to learn and to share what I have learned, not to read your psychobabble internet ego trip. If you have a problem with my posts, that's wonderful. Don't try to pass off your diatribes as fact, when they simply aren't.

You can reply and chest beat on the internet all you want, I won't be a part of it anymore. You already mis-inform people daily, and will do so no matter what anybody here says.

You may know a fair bit about cars, but you act like you know a great deal more. I simply can not, and will not agree with your OPINION on this. That, is exactly what you have given so far.