MX-3.com

Yes that totally does! Thanks IP!

I also got up some prices for the stuff i still need. Maybe this helps people in planning:

Front Axles (BP, MTX): 69.99 per side
Spark Plug Wires: 55.00 (it doesn't show NGK wires on the AAP site though.. so maybe more idk)
Distributor: 176.99
Timing Belt: 27.99
Heater/Bypass Hose: (it showed 2 different hoses) 10.99 and 8.99
Axle Nuts: 5.49
Engine Mounts: 58.99 and 44.99
Cylinder Head Gasket set: 294.97
Oil Pan Gasket: 9.49
Intake Manifold Gasket set: 9.49
Valve Cover Gasket: 21.99
Oil Pump: 180.00
Rings: 104.99
Water Pump: 46.99
Water Pump Gasket: 2.00 (it's like.. 1 dollar each for the inlet gasket and mounting gasket)
Lower Radiator Hose: 10.99
Upper Radiator Hose: 9.99
Serpentine belt (complete with PS and A/C): 14.49


I didn't see on AAP any links for the transmission mounts =/. So the only things missing from this list are:

BP wiring harness
ECU and Dash Harness
Clutch/Flywheel
Vacuum Lines

edit:

total cost in parts w/out the harnesses, clutch, and vac. lines is $1,234.80

Thats some expensive stuff.

But I'm good with that. I'd rather do it good once than bad once good once.

I'm a little bummed at my motor recently. Compression is an even 120 across all four, and I have leakies everywhere (oil pan, waterpump (or somewhere up in there)). Stupid egay gaskets and cheap rings. Still runs like a champ though.

Hey man, when can I ship the pedal assy and such?

Ryan wrote:Thats some expensive stuff.

But I'm good with that. I'd rather do it good once than bad once good once.

I'm a little bummed at my motor recently. Compression is an even 120 across all four, and I have leakies everywhere (oil pan, waterpump (or somewhere up in there)). Stupid egay gaskets and cheap rings. Still runs like a champ though.

Hey man, when can I ship the pedal assy and such?

ah that sucks man =(. And I'm getting all fel-pro stuff in terms of gaskets.

And i was about to PM you (been PM'ing a few people lol). I get paid tomorrow (friday) but I probably won't see the money in my account until Saturday. So I'll PayPal you Saturday evening. Is that ok?

DR: A few tips about your list.

The Autolite wires are good stuff. You won't miss the NGK's for a second.
If you get the head gasket set, you don't need intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gasket, or valve cover gasket: they're included in the head gasket set.
The water pump comes with its own gaskets.
With the belts (remember they're 2), I'd highly recommend you to buy Dayco. Drive Rite is cr@p.

Also, I'd recommend you to add a thermostat and gasket to your list, and, (this is a VERY personal preference) to go to a junkyard and get a GS radiator. They have brass end tanks, instead of the crappy plastic end tanks of the B6 radiators, and they drop right in.

Inodoro Pereyra wrote:DR: A few tips about your list.

The Autolite wires are good stuff. You won't miss the NGK's for a second.
If you get the head gasket set, you don't need intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gasket, or valve cover gasket: they're included in the head gasket set.
The water pump comes with its own gaskets.
With the belts (remember they're 2), I'd highly recommend you to buy Dayco. Drive Rite is cr@p.

Also, I'd recommend you to add a thermostat and gasket to your list, and, (this is a VERY personal preference) to go to a junkyard and get a GS radiator. They have brass end tanks, instead of the crappy plastic end tanks of the B6 radiators, and they drop right in.

alright changed up my list some. Thanks!

Speaking of thermostat and gasket.. I use the BP thermostat right?

Dark_Rider2k3 wrote:
Speaking of thermostat and gasket.. I use the BP thermostat right?

Yep. Use the "Stant", part # 45869. It's a little more expensive than the 13869, but it's worth it

Yup added to my list too.

One other thing for your list: I'd recommend you to buy the repair manual for the car you took the engine from. That manual will prove to be priceless, both when you're checking out parts, and when you're assembling the engine.
For example, the oil pump. I have an old B8 (same block as the BP) from a '91 protege I owned. A couple of years ago, when I wanted to "BP" my '92 MX-3, I started to check everything out, and even when the engine had 175000+ miles on it, the oil pump was still within factory specs.

So, my point is, that book will help you buy ONLY the parts you need. That may shorten your list considerably...

Well the valve cover says Mazda, and so I'm pretty sure that the BP was taken from an early Protege as well.. but really other then that I couldn't tell you what year it was taken from (bought it off Pauleatstoomuch on here).

My GS rad has plastic end tanks...so did my spare which I used to replace the original when the crimps failed and said plastic end tank came off. I'm just sayin'. I think to get copper you'd have to buy a $400 aftermarket rad or get reeeeaallly lucky at the wrecker. Changing the thermostat is a very good idea though. For <$10 it would just be silly not to.

Also the RS is notorious for alternator belt problems. It stings a little, but go to the dealership and get Mazda belts. I know that Dayco is the factory replacement, but I think I went through 4 of them and a couple of GoddYear Gatorbacks on my old RS before buying a factory belt and finally solving the problem. That's just my $.02.

Interestingly enough I had replaced my serpentine belt once before and it's been on good... so I mean.. I might just "risk it" considering I replaced a serpentine belt 2 years ago and it's still good.

edit:

and the Grinding compound part # is wrong. That part # shows up as
Dorman Fuel Line Connectors, Retainers & Repair Kits.

But I'll go shortly to AAP and check out the compound and see what part # it is over here.

wytbishop wrote:My GS rad has plastic end tanks...so did my spare which I used to replace the original when the crimps failed and said plastic end tank came off. I'm just sayin'. I think to get copper you'd have to buy a $400 aftermarket rad or get reeeeaallly lucky at the wrecker.

Oh! Well, I'm one of the really lucky ones then. I got one with brass end tanks, in almost new shape for $28, at the junkyard...
If I had known it's not standard I'd have taken it off when I sold the car...

Dark_Rider2k3 wrote: and the Grinding compound part # is wrong. That part # shows up as
Dorman Fuel Line Connectors, Retainers & Repair Kits.

You're right. One too many zeros...
Sorry.

Here you go...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... RP2034____

Inodoro Pereyra wrote:

Dark_Rider2k3 wrote: and the Grinding compound part # is wrong. That part # shows up as
Dorman Fuel Line Connectors, Retainers & Repair Kits.

You're right. One too many zeros...
Sorry.

Here you go...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... RP2034____

Okay that works! I'll grab all that good stuff tomorrow morning and get to it. Will take some pics of the engine and such and me frustrated with my valve lapping.

Now, just so i don't screw this up.. I do it until it's smooth, clean the area, and then continue to do it until I don't hear any noises? (it's so smooth that it makes no sound when being spun..)

Dark_Rider2k3 wrote:
Now, just so i don't screw this up.. I do it until it's smooth, clean the area, and then continue to do it until I don't hear any noises? (it's so smooth that it makes no sound when being spun..)

Once the noise quiets down (with the lapping compound), clean up both surfaces thoroughly. You should see both the surface on the seat (where the valve rests) and a ring near the edge of the valve, shiny and smooth as a mirror, all the way around the valve cup.

3 things are VERY IMPORTANT when valve lapping:

1. The lapping compound should NOT get between the valve stem and the guide.
2. After the lapping, you should carefully remove ALL the lapping compound from both the seat and the valve cup.
3. Once you lapped the valve, that valve should go ONLY in that seat. I'd recommend you to install each valve right after cleaning it, to avoid any possibility of mistakes.