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That's how I set mine. Just for sh*ts and giggles I turned it out more and my engine ran like crap. Remember to set it to 650 with TEN and grd jumped. It'll go to 700rpm once the jumper is removed right.

Someone rear ended me last month, getting fixed by insurance at the moment. So I have not figured anything out yet with the spark plugs etc lol.

Anyone have opinions on the plug pictures?

You need to set your TPS properly. I read where you used the fan trick. Do this.

TPS Adjust (mechanicl)
Engine off.
Detach TPS connector.

Wire Colour & Purpose
P= +5V reference
Y= TPS position signal to ECU
BR= TPS idle switch
BK/DB= sensor ground

Connect ohmeter to 2 bottom pins (BR and BK/DB) and you should get continuity. If not, loosen 2 TPS retaining bolts and rotate until continuity has just barely been achieved. Semi tighten 2 TPS bolts.
Insert .006" (0.15mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and throttle lever. This should not break the continuity. If it does break continuity, slightly adjust TPS rotation again to regain the continuity. Insert the gauge in and out a few times to verify.
After confirming continuity with 0.15mm feeler gauge, insert a .020" (.50mm) feeler gauge. This should just barely break continuity but completely. If not re-adjust TPS rotation again. Re-confirm by re-inserting feeler gauge.
In essence, continuity on initial connection to TPS.
Continuity with .15mm gauge inserted.
No continuity with .50mm gauge inserted.
Tighten down TPS retaining bolts.
Re-connect TPS connector.

ok greate another person with the same problem.... I have a Ze in a 93 as well, and expiriancing the same issue...
what i noriced though, when u unplug the air hose from the intake tubing thing (the hose that goes to the cylinder head covers) the car gainz so much power and actually throws u back in the seat, but the only issue it dies at idle....
so im thinking it runs mega rich???? or fuel injector problems????

trying things toommorow.

Well once I get my car back I'm going to get the injectors done. Will take the whole IM off.

Let me know if you find out what your deal is too. Would be interested to find out if it's the injectors or something else. Will be doing compression test too.

Sucks when you go through all the effort to do a swap then have to screw around after with problems. Nice if you can just drop the ZE in a GOOOOOoooooooooo

Daninski wrote:Sucks when you go through all the effort to do a swap then have to screw around after with problems. Nice if you can just drop the ZE in a GOOOOOoooooooooo

That's what I'm hoping for

Well I did a compression test and it came back good:

1 - 210
2 - 215
3 - 210
4 - 210
5 - 210
6 - 210


No idea why it's feels so slow and restricted up high. I am going to check that timing advances normally, I know it does when I have 10 and GND jumped. Will also need to check for vacuum leaks again, but damn it would have to be a massive one to cause this much loss of power.

Daninski wrote:Sorry for not responding sooner. Regarding what I suggested before the idle screw is on the top of the throttle body. Run the engine in diag mode and screw the idle screw in until the engine RPM drops then screw it out to 650 rpm and STOP. If that screw is out too far your engine will have sluggish response.

the idle screw still has nothing to do with how the engines pwoer is goign to be.... its only for idle speed. u can have ut turned all the way in or all the way out and itll still have the same power.. but a tps could be needed.

and just cause the fuel pressure test was ok doesnt mean its flowing enough fuel. take the fuel line feed off and put it in a bottle, jump the pump in diagnostic and turn the car to on and see how much fuel is actually being flowed it should be a pretty good stream.

fieromx3 wrote: And just cause the fuel pressure test was ok doesnt mean its flowing enough fuel. take the fuel line feed off and put it in a bottle, jump the pump in diagnostic and turn the car to on and see how much fuel is actually being flowed it should be a pretty good stream.

I see. I was leaning towards fuel pump before but was talked out of it by the pressure test. The pressure test was done with the car running if I recall correctly. Would that mean it could still be not flowing enough fuel. Any other tests I can perform on the fuel pump without actually replacing it to see?

just take the feed line off and see if the gas flows alot... u should automatically be able to tell if its flowing enough... it should be pissing out gas. the car doesnt need much gas at all for part throttle low rpm or idle. and going from k8 to a ZE is a 70hp jump thats quite a bit extra fuel needed and the pump MAY or MAY NOT be doing the job. this is the problem i had after swapping out to my ze

Have you figured out what was wrong?

Negatory. Been busy, it's annoying. I've got a fuel pump and other things to try out.

Just need more time, been busy at work and weekends so I'm not having much time for my car.

Blew a disty just recently but I did manage to get my injectors cleaned and tested.

Pretty much made no difference.

I'm going to put headers on really soon. Then fuel pump too. If those fail me for smooth higher levels of power, I dunno wtf is wrong?!

What year is your MX-3?