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ill attempt to try and manually mov the shutter, and mazda will have nothing to do with me unless the car is on the ramps and the clock ticks my money away. lol
Also, yesterday, while the car was warming up, i wanted to hurry the process by driving and about 3500 rpm, the temp needle started going down, and didnt stop untill i let off the gas.

I havent read the whole post, but seems to me its your thermostat. REPLACE it only with a mazda one. I used an aftermarket and it didnt fix my problem.

can someone confirm this? i mean. I can believe in faulty thermostats, but for aftermarket thermos not working at all seems strange.

MOSES wrote:can someone confirm this? i mean. I can believe in faulty thermostats, but for aftermarket thermos not working at all seems strange.

Hey, if it's only that ...what the hey ....slap a mazda one in. For the cost and time it takes it sure beats taking a chance on taking it to Mazda. And even if it doesn't fix the problem, you've got a new Mazda one in there that should be problem free for some time. Moses, 93 Spec Edn might have keyed in on it for you along with your current observation of the temp going down while under load and then I'm assuming that it gradually went back up once the heavy load was deminished. Maybe all it is is a faulty after market one, if in fact that's what you're running. Or perhaps it wasn't positioned correctly in the housing with the relief valve to the top. That's why I kept asking if there was adequate pressure in all of your rad hoses because the return hose from the thermostat housing would show signs of not having enough pressure. Perhaps before installing a new Mazda thermostat, try to recreate that same indication that you just mentioned by revving the engine while it was still cold to that 3500rpm level and feel the rad return hose from the thermostat housing and see if it becomes easier to collapse by hand. Let us know.

The question is, it's it because he's under load or because he's moving? I just replaced the thermostat on the 626. The only symptome I experienced was that instead of taking less than 5 minutes to get upto temp, it took over 30min. But with that, it took longer when I was driving. My assumption is that because when I was moving, the air is moving over the radiator is it's keeping the coolant cool as it's suppose to, but with the thermostat stuck open, it added to it's effeictiveness, but that was working against me. If I would let the car sit, it would warm up faster. Same thing as well, if i get the temperature on cold, it would get to temperature quicker to to put it on hot, but I don't know how this would work on the Mx-3's since the heater sore is coolant constant (but I dont know if the 626 is or not)

I'm not too good with this, but I'm just throwing out ideas.

Hey man I pm'd u back. I am pretty sure all u need to do is throw in a mazda genuine thermostat. Let us know how it goes.

thanks guys, the topic is really taking up some time eh?
ill go ahead and put in the mazda therm. Ill pick one up tomorow.
Ill let u guys know.

This problem with the falling temp under load, i think there is air in the system and when the pump circulates the water through at high rpm, the water moves away from the temp senser, therefor there is no hot water touching it (the senser). Is that even a possibly, or are you guys still leaning towards thermo?

And just a reminder, when i drove with cardboard in front of the rad, the temp got dangerously near the top, but the air was still cool inside.

jschrauwen wrote: That's why I kept asking if there was adequate pressure in all of your rad hoses because the return hose from the thermostat housing would show signs of not having enough pressure. Perhaps before installing a new Mazda thermostat, try to recreate that same indication that you just mentioned by revving the engine while it was still cold to that 3500rpm level and feel the rad return hose from the thermostat housing and see if it becomes easier to collapse by hand. Let us know.

No mention if this was confirmed???

I did go to mazda today, he said if both lines going to your core is the same pressure and temp, then it is NOT the core. I argued with him, I said, if the core was working properly with the fans on, then the return line WILL be cooler then the send line, he said that is false.

When at operating temp, the line from the line rad to the therm, is the same pressure as the other, but when at 3000 rpm, ill have to check that out.

I will do a test while she is cool, at 3500 rpm and see if the line beomces easier to collapse

MOSES wrote:I did go to mazda today, he said if both lines going to your core is the same pressure and temp, then it is NOT the core. I argued with him, I said, if the core was working properly with the fans on, then the return line WILL be cooler then the send line, he said that is false.
When at operating temp, the line from the line rad to the therm, is the same pressure as the other, but when at 3000 rpm, ill have to check that out.
I will do a test while she is cool, at 3500 rpm and see if the line beomces easier to collapse

I think it would be hard to discern if the cores return line does get cooler than the feed line after the fan has been turned on.
Testing the rad hose between the rad and the thermostat housing between idle and 3500 rpm for a drop in pressure should surely indicate a faulty thermostat. I personally would just change it anyway with a Mazda one just on spec and see if that rectifies the problem.

when i started the car to do the test, i checked the line, then rvved her up andn there was absolutly no pressure change. After about 10 min, the line started to get stiffer, but remained cold.
I dont know what else to say about this o car.

It has to be the heater core.

hey moses got your pm but i will reply here. I cant explain why, but if i was u just change the thermo and get a mazda one. Its cheaper than doing teh heater core and it may fix your prob. But then again its up 2 u. U seem confident the thermo is fine.

alright guys thanks for all your time and knowledge, i appreciate you and this site.
This site is basiclly a way for all of us Mx-3 owners to save money on fixing our problems, and in many cases, that i did.
This time I will swallow my pride and bring it to mazda since ive narrowed it down enough for them not to screw me. The core is something i cant do, and i know the thermo is fine. Till next time.

Andrew

MOSES wrote: and i know the thermo is fine.
Andrew

Andrew, unless you did the old boil in a pot trick with that thermostat to verify opening and closing at correct temps, I'm not sure what makes you compelled to believe that it's 100%. For the cost and time, I'd waste the few bucks on a Mazda thermostat and install it and see what happens. What may be ironically humerous is that Mazda may do exactly that first before ripping into the heater core. If by chance it does turn out to be the heater core, I'd call a few junkyards a get an average price on one up front so that if by chance you recieve a call from Mazda and they say they need to install one you can direct them to the junkyard of your choice to acquire the unit you want them to use. That's what I'd do. Let us know Andrew.

*John*

I'll keep ya posted. thanks again